Wyze Doorbell v2 chime controller not working

have you had any electrical issues not using the chime controller? I saw other post that suggest it can act as a surge protector.

I had no functional issues either way (with or without the controller).
My issues were primarily with the installation instructions.
I do have issues with the Wyze app (different thread),

Ok. thank you for the information. I may take out their controller.

I installed our new Wyze Doorbell v2 today. I walked through the installation the “Add Device” instructions in the Wyze app and specified that we had a two wire chime. After setup was complete with the chime controller installed as directed the chime did not work. I removed the Wyze doorbell camera and chime controller, tested the voltage (21.8V), and confirmed operation with the old Ring doorbell. I re-installed the Wyze doorbell camera and chime and again the chime did not work. At this point I checked the settings of the doorbell camera v2 and clicked “Chime”. The “Doorbell Chime Type” was set to “None”. I changed the type to “Mechanical” and the chime started working. I suspect the app might not be properly configuring this setting during setup. It might be worth checking this setting prior too purchasing a new transformer or removing the controller.

Welcome to the Forum, @drew123, and thanks for sharing your experience!

Is the app prompting the user to select the chime type during setup yet? This wasn’t my experience when I installed the Video Doorbell v2 months ago, and I commented about it in a few topics. I wasn’t prompted to select the home’s existing chime type until well after I’d finished installation (and found and configured the correct setting myself), and the prompt popped up for me in the app several times afterward:

I haven’t had a need to delete the device and re-do setup since then (though I’ve had the Doorbell off the wall a few times while working on a custom mount), so I don’t know if Wyze has updated the installation workflow for that device.

I like this recommendation, especially if the app isn’t prompting the user to choose a chime type during setup. I’m also in favor of testing the voltage at the original doorbell button prior to beginning the new installation just so you know if you’re meeting the specs before you start.

Out of curiosity, what firmware are you using on your new Doorbell? There are several topics here in the Forum that describe problems with notifications following the two most recent firmware updates (the second of which was supposed to fix the issue), so I haven’t updated mine since January.

YAY! This worked for me!

Yay, this fix worked for me too!

omg after struggling with this all afternoon, i removed the chime controller and restored the chime setup to stock and now my doorbell v2 rings the doorbell perfectly. i dont even know what the chime controller does.

i mean obviously, the doorbell needs power, but it cant “short” the circuit otherwise the doorbell will ring, so they probably complete the circuit but with such a low current that the mechanical chime sees the circuit as “open”, then it probably charges up a small capacitor such that the electronics and wifi can run off 5 volt/0.5 Amp, and when a user presses the doorbell, it shorts the circuit such that 24V or 16V AC runs all the way through the doorbell such that the chime rings.

if thats the case, the “chime controller” is probably just a very small resistor. all its doing is providing a path for current to go past the chime such that the doorbell can draw current without triggering the chime. does anyone want to open theirs up to see whats inside?

im sure this is some sort of weird edge case, maybe 80% of people have it work as per the instructions.

they should follow the playbook out of the original nest thermostat from 2011, where the install experience accounted for every possible permutation of thermostat wiring, and the hand hold you through every possible step.

To anyone trying to be at the v2 doorbell working, I finally got mine working. Don’t bother with the chime controller thats supplied , but instead set the setting in your app where it’ll the doorbell is set to electronic chime, then the doorbell will ring your existing chime. This is assuming you have at least 16 or so volts being sent to your front doorbell (or from your transformer)

I have a similar setup with the Broan mechanical chime. Most of these were installed with a 10VA transformer, which can just barely operate the chime, or not at all. I upgraded to a 30VA transformer and the chime is now a clear, loud, “ding-dong”,

In case you are interested, someone has already dismantled the chime controller in Youtube.

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Hello Everyone,

I too am having the same problem with the Wize Doorbel v2 Chine .

I set up the chime controller first as the instructions said. I then set up the doorbell v2 and it camera video worked well. I received great videos and receiving the notifications were excellent however, when I pressed the doorbell, no chime, NO NOTHING from bell.

I then removed the chime controller from the equation, placed the wires for the bell itself back to the location in which there were previously and placed the cover back on th wired bell. I pressed the doorbell again and it rang. I didn’t need the included chime controller to ring the bell…

All is fine with my doorbell, so you may want to leave the wired bell chime alone and just wire the doorbell part to eceive the video.

Peace.

I finally got around to watching this and enjoyed the learning experience. Thanks for sharing!

MOST DEFINITELY AGREE WITH YOU‼️ Doesn’t a friggin month trying to and finally got mine working without the controller.
…but I’m all honestly why do I have to search out a forum dedicated to Wyze doorbell [Mod Edit] and Wyze not simply supplying the answer or fix when purchasing their product‼️ smdh

MOD NOTE: Post edited to conform to the Community Guidelines.

That hasn’t been my experience at all.

It’s been wired the same way for months. Only recently I had a couple of events where pressing the Doorbell’s button didn’t actually ring the mechanical chime in the house, but tapping the Restart button on the Doorbell’s Settings screen has resolved that (for now).

I wired the doorbell as per the instructions, and the existing chime did not work (although it worked fine with the original doorbell button prior). I tried a lot of things like a new chime, new transformer(s), etc. and nothing worked, although the Wyze door bell worked fine with the app. I finally discovered that the red wires were reversed at the chime. Apparently that doesn’t matter with the original button or getting power to the Wyze. This probably won’t help anyone else, but it worked for me.

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Welcome to the Forum, @bradsfish, and thanks for sharing your experience! :wave:

These things are so goofy that I’m not sure what to make of the way they’re supposed to work anymore. I’d previously read about reversing the terminal connections for the Chime Controller’s red and white wires, and I was aware of the alternate wiring instructions, but my doorbell was working fine with the mechanical chime for months…until it wasn’t.

When restarting no longer resolved the issue, I learned that holding the button in for 1-2 seconds worked…sometimes, but I can’t expect everyone who attempts to ring the doorbell to know that. I also had limited success by switching the Doorbell Chime Type to Digital and changing the Ring tone length parameter…until that stopped working, too.

A couple of days ago I tried the alternate wiring instructions, so now the Chime Controller’s white wire isn’t connected to anything, and the mechanical chime works once again…but for how long?

Your information just adds to my confusion, but I reckon it’s good to know because it might be one more variation to try if I have a future failure.

How did you determine that the wires were reversed at your chime?

:pencil2: Edit: Okay, so I still don’t know how @bradsfish made this determination, but trying to assist with a doorbell chime issue in another topic led me to do some more thinking, and I came up with my own solution, which resulted in rewiring my own chime box, because I was able to determine that the red wires in my chime box were on the wrong FRONT and TRANS terminals before I ever began my initial installation.