Thank you for confirming that.
Before I continue: I am not an electrician. Many of the articles in the Help Center suggest consulting an electrician if you have problems, and I’m not one of those, so I want to be clear about that. Short of calling in a professional, I think it’s reasonable to try some more wiring combinations on your own, especially if you’ve already replaced your own transformer and have the doorbell working otherwise.
I just went to review my own wiring (where my doorbell is currently working 
with the alternate wiring method after months of working with the standard method…and then stopping, and I still don’t understand why), and I see two red wires and two white wires coming into my chime box: The red wires are connected to TRANS and FRONT, and the white wires are taped together (instead of using a wire nut) and tucked away. (I’m speculating here that where you wired the doorbell camera unit you have one white and one black wire coming out of the wall, but please correct me if I’m wrong about that.) I wonder what would happen if you did something like this:
- Turn off the breaker that supplies power to the doorbell transformer.
- Remove the wire nut that’s connecting your Chime Controller’s black wire to one of the black and one of the white wires from your home (in your second picture it looks like 3 wires going into this nut). Separate these wires.
- Remove the white wire from the TRANS terminal.
- Connect the two white wires from your home together and cover the exposed conductors with a wire nut or electrical tape.
- Connect the two free black wires (one coming from your home into the chime box and the other one from the Chime Controller) with the wire nut.
- Connect the red wire from the Chime Controller to the TRANS terminal (so it and one black wire from your home will be connected to that terminal).
- Connect the white wire from the Chime Controller to the FRONT terminal.
- Restore power to the doorbell transformer and test. Note that Wyze recommends giving the doorbell power for 20-30 minutes prior to expecting it to ring. I imagine this is to give the capacitor inside the doorbell camera unit time to charge. If you had the doorbell powered up before flipping the breaker off and futzing with the wires, then it’s probably adequately charged already, but I’d give it 5-10 minutes to sit before trying again.
If that doesn’t work, then I’d try this:
- Turn off the doorbell power.
- Disconnect the white Chime Controller wire from FRONT and let 'im dangle[1].
- Disconnect the red Chime Controller wire from TRANS and connect it to FRONT (or REAR), per the alternate wiring instructions.
- Restore power and test again after a few minutes.
Have you tried that combination before?
Again, I’m speculating about your wiring and trying to imagine what the original setup was (with the previous doorbell button) without a visual reference, so I’m just comparing what I think is happening with my own setup.
Edit: I had another thought you might try if the first set of steps (1-8) doesn’t work and before going to the second set (1-4):
- Turn off the doorbell power.
- Undo the wire nut and separate the two black wires (one from the Chime Controller and one from the house).
- Disconnect the house black wire from the TRANS terminal and wire it together with the Chime Controller black wire with the wire nut.
- Connect the remaining house black wire to the TRANS terminal (along with the Chime Controller red wire).
- Restore power and test.
I’m making this suggestion before moving on to the alternate wiring instructions (noted above) because one pair of black and white wires going into your chime box should be from the transformer, and the other pair should be from the doorbell switch location. You should be able to determine which is which if you have a working multimeter and the power on at the breaker (you would want the line/“live” black wire attached to TRANS), but if you don’t then I wouldn’t expect swapping them to cause any problems, and, in fact, that’s what another Forum user seemed to suggest in a different topic.
If you’re certain that the black wire that’s currently (in the photo you uploaded) attached to TRANS was working with the old dumb doorbell button before you started the new doorbell installation, then maybe this isn’t necessary. It just struck me as something else you might consider trying.
Again I want to thank you for the photos, because looking at them I now have a clear mental concept of exactly why your Video Doorbell v2 has power and is functioning and the chime is not ringing with a doorbell press, because the wiring in the chime box photo you included indicates that you’re bypassing the chime entirely if you just think through the current flow of the circuit. Hopefully one of these sets of steps will get everything working as intended. I’m eager to learn if that’s the case.
