So my wiring is messy and I’m not sure what I’m doing in this disaster and we basically narrowed it down to two white wires that are “rear” and t. The "rear for some reason is our front door so we’re just continuing with that. But when we wired everything we could it doesn’t seem to be working properly. Any thoughts?
Welcome to the Forum, @mega_mega_m! 
I’d start with two questions:
- Was your previous doorbell working with the built-in chime you show in the photograph?
- What did the wiring inside the chime box look like before you started, and would you be willing to post that here? (The Wyze app should’ve prompted you to take a “before” picture of your wiring during the installation process.)
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Hi crease
It was that messy before. The only difference is I had the doorbell v1 so that extra white wiring added into that. Unfortunately the photo before that is long gone…
Did you upgrade the transformer from 10VA to 30VA? The v2 has fairly high power requirements. With a 10VA transformer, the mechanical chime just barely operates. You need the 30VA transformer to get the full, loud, “ding-dong” out of it. Check your existing transformer to see its rating.
I also notice that it doesn’t seem like you have wired in the Wyze Doorbell Chime Controller, which is a must-have. Use the app to take you through the wiring process and it will show you how to wire it in, and properly set it up for two doorbell buttons. FWIW, I had to use one of the “alternate” connection schemes to get it to work.
I don’t know what that means, but I appreciate your taking the time to respond again even without an original photo. If your previous doorbell was the original Wyze Video Doorbell (Wired) and it was working as designed, then I imagine you had the fuse wire in place and were bypassing the chime completely. If so, then what was that connected to?
If I had to guess from the single photo you’ve shared so far, then I’d imagine that one of the cables coming into your chime box is a run of 4-conductor wire from the doorbell button and that your doorbell button is wired to black and red wires (which is why I think the yellow and green wires are just twisted together in the photo, because I don’t think you’re actually using those at all). If that’s the case, then I’m puzzled by the one red wire with installation stripped at the end that’s bent into a hook but just floating out in space and not attached to anything.
With the angle of this single photo, I’m having difficulty clearly seeing the course of each wire, and I can’t read the terminal labels at all. Would it be possible to leave the existing connections in place but pull some things to the side (e.g., the orange wire nut bundles) so that the path of each wire is less ambiguous? Also, if you could provide some feedback on how the terminals are labeled (“front”, “rear”, “trans”, etc.) and which label applies to which screw terminal, then I think that might help us to figure this out.
I’ve read elsewhere on the Forum posts from other users who aren’t using the Chime Controller at all, but that doesn’t seem to be the case here. While the Chime Controller itself isn’t visible in the photo, the red, black, and white wires from the Chime Controller enter the photo from the bottom, so it seems fairly evident that an attempt has been made to wire that in. That’s how I interpret the photo, anyway.
This isn’t true in my case, though I’m aware of Wyze’s guidance on the matter from the product page:
A 16V 10VA transformer sits at the lower end of the power supply spectrum.
I connected my Video Doorbell v2 (with the Chime Controller) and have it working with the 16V/10VA that was originally installed with the “dumb” doorbell button, and I get a nice “ding-dong” out of my mechanical chime just as before installing the Wyze Video Doorbell v2. (I also tested the voltage at the original button’s location early in my installation to ensure adequate voltage and, if memory serves correctly, was reading ~18 volts on my multimeter.)
@mega_mega_m, to @pbanders1’s point, it might be helpful if you could include a photo of your transformer, as well. That could shed some additional light on the power supply to your doorbell as well as the wiring situation you’re dealing with.
Good info. FWIW, it might be instructive to monitor the voltage on the doorbell chime actuator when the doorbell is actuated. Yours is working fine, it would be useful to know how much voltage drop is seen with your 10VA transformer. I’ll have to check mine to see, I’m suspecting minimal drop with the 30VA transformer. I’ll also try to get a couple clear pics of my setup for others to take a look at.
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I think that’s good advice, too, and I appreciate your assistance with this!
OK, some pics. First, the chime controller wiring to the Broan mechanical chime. This is one of Wyze’s “alternative” wiring schemes. Note the grey wire isn’t connected, it’s just tucked away and I taped the end of it to prevent contact.
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One more pic, the 30VA transformer. Green and red connected to the xformer, yellow and black aren’t connected to anything and are tucked away.
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@pbanders1, these are great! I appreciate how clear the photos and descriptions are, and I hope they’ll be a helpful part of the record for other users. Thank you for sharing!
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Hi @pbanders1 pbander, thank you for the suggestion and my intention is to install the chime controller. my first problem was locating which wire is the “front/rear” and Trans wire. It was a mess that was for my original problem. I am able to figure out the lateral once things are located. I got it to work but I will look into the 30 VA transformer though!
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Hey @Crease crease
I think i located some of the necessary wiring to make it work for now. Thanks for your input!
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You’re welcome! I’m glad to read that you got ‘er workin’!
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