Wyze Doorbell v2 chime controller not working

I have found my answer. On Amazon I bought the Heath Zenith Wired 30 VA Transformer. Approx $28 Cdn. Easy to install. Works great.
The box the transformer comes in says it works with all doorbell cameras.
And it comes from a great brand Heath Zenith.
Wyze should tell people they have to install a new transformer. NEST tells people.

Thats what I had to do. Agree that Wyze should inform people of this.

I have a Nutone 65360 with a mechanical chime.

Wiring it with the Wyze controller per the instructions got the camera working but no indoor chime.

Flipping the white and red wires from the Wyze controller had the camera working but the inside chime would dong without the ding.

Disconnecting the white completely and moving the red to the Front terminal also powered the camera but the inside chime would dong with no ding.

Removing the Wyze controller completely and hooking the doorbell back up as it originally was powers the camera and gives both a ding and a dong on the indoor chime after a delay. However, the camera’s built in chime crackles some when you press it which is annoying.

Trying to decide if I spend the money on a higher amp transformer or just live with it as-is.

With chattering going on, I think you may be right about the transformer needing to be upgraded. My indoor chime has a delay from the Wyze doorbell also, but no noise. I did upgrade my transformer before I realized that the wiring was different than the diagram on the website. Hopefully you can solve the issue.

First off, I switched the red and white wires. What’s happening to me is: When the outside doorbell is pressed, I get 1 ring from the doorbell itself (outside) then the mechanical doorbell (inside) rings several times (it repeats!) sometimes it just chimes once, sometimes it chimes 10 or more times! I hear an audible click from the Waze controller before every chime… Any ideas? Please help. Getting frustrated with this product!

I get the same delay indoor bell, but not repeatedly. I’m wondering if you transformer for the indoor chime is at a low voltage/amp level. I did upgrade my transformer to a 10/30 vac.

I bought 2 doorbell v2. installed 1 unit last week in my house and chime is working fine. another one installed today in my in-law’s house, chime worked briefly then stopped working and started making electrical buzzing sound from doorbell when it’s pressed.
disassembled and returning for exchange with new unit. I think the ones not working with chimes are defect.

Yes, I solved this by upgrading to a larger transformer that can handle the load.

  1. Find the transformer location.
  2. Bought a “Defiant” 16v/30va transformer from homedepot . It then work like a charm. The video doorbell is drawing much more electricity from old transformer. Here’s the detail of the new transformer

Product ID #: 322882044Internet #: 058219328491Model #: 18000044

Hope this works for everyone.

I just installed v2 with a mechanical indoor chime using the chime controller. The video doorbell works, but didn’t activate the mechanical chime. Wired correctly, v2 works correctly. I have 20.4v at the door as well as at the mechanical chime inside. On testing, while the transformer side of the chime still registered 20.4v, the output to the Wyse v2 is reduced to 6.4v. I’m assuming this is correct to protect the v2. The problem is that the output from the chime controller to the mechanical chime, attached to the “front” side, is also 6.4v, not enough voltage to activate the plunger. Concerned that fully bypassing the chime controller would send too much voltage to the v2, over time damaging it, I researched further and discovered this post on the Wyze support site that offered an alternative wiring diagram. Following that alternate diagram, my indoor mechanical chime is now working while maintaining the 6.4v output to the v2 doorbell module, protecting it from excess voltage. Hope this helps.

I hope this solves my problem. Just installed Wyze V2 doorbell and chime is not working wired how they directed. I also took the Wyze box thing totally off the chime and that didn’t work. I think this shouldn’t be so hard and directions on this issue not clearly found

I just installed the doorbell v2. I spent hours trying to get my existing mechanical chimes to work. The instructions required me to install that little square chime controller. Their color-coding was different, but no big deal. No chimes. I tried swapping their input/output wires. Still no chimes.

HERE’S WHAT WORKED FOR ME: I removed the Wyze chime controller, and put all the related wiring back the way it was. Then I simply replaced the existing doorbell button with the Wyze doorbell, and it worked. [I did have to tell the app about the mechanical chimes.] Just FYI, when I added a second chime a few years back (for the basement), I upgraded to a more powerful transformer. If you have an older transformer, that might be a problem.

@FLA_SOM, if the sole intent of their chime controller is to reduce voltage to the doorbell cam, Wyze needs to say so, AND give better instructions on how to hook it up. IMO, any necessary voltage reduction should be done within the doorbell cam - anything else is just bad design.

I would like to make two points 1 I was dismayed when my chime didn’t work, after triple checking the wiring I decided to remove the transformer to check the rating, as it was in a position where you couldn’t see the tag without removing it. Well imagine my embarrassment when I see 10v 5va, worked perfectly with a new 16v 10ma. 2 IMO the purpose of the chime module is to reduce the current flow through the Wyze doorbell. It basically works as a relay to protect the doorbell from excessive current flow. Smart.

After reading all the posts about this, I decided to go back and try the chime controller again, believing that it might in fact be a relay designed to protect the Wyze doorbell (thanks @jwober1).

My house wiring is likely different than most: wires for the doorbell itself go directly to the transformer box. Same for the 2 chimes - their wires go directly to the transformer box. So, all electrical hookups take place in one area (by the transformer).

The picture below is what (I believe) I ended up with; I hope it helps others get their (mechanical) chimes working. The +/- signs just help me think; I’m not sure they’re necessary.

Hey WYZE, if this is wrong, say so soon.