I haven’t seen a post exactly like this. I only have one doorbell and yet this has 4 wires 2 of which appear to be connected to trans (0). Not sure how to hook the controller to this.
Welcome to the Forum, @robmag100! 
I am not an electrician.
Are you certain that this is accurate? 
I haven’t personally seen or used a mechanical chime like that, but I found a Reddit thread that appears to show the same thing. If the information there is accurate, then the “0” terminal is more like a common connection and not electrically connected to the solenoid that actuates the chime’s striker(s), so “2” would be akin to “FRONT” and “3” would be “TRANS”. If that’s all correct, and if the chime is already operating as expected with your current doorbell button, then you could do this with Chime Controller:
Connect Chime Controller’s red wire to terminal 3 and leave the existing white wire in place there.
Connect Chime Controller’s white wire to terminal 2 after removing the white wire that’s already connected there.
Use a wire nut to connect this white wire you removed from terminal 2 to Chime Controller’s black wire.
Rather than making assumptions, however, I’m biased toward doing my own testing, so I’d be inclined to use a multimeter to test the transformer and to trace the wires so that I have a better understanding of which conductor pair is going where. What I would expect in your case is that you would have one red and one white conductor pair between the chime and the transformer, and the other red/white pair should be between the chime and the doorbell button location.
I assumed that my home’s doorbell chime had been wired correctly when it was installed with its previous dumb doorbell button, and then I ran into problems with my Video Doorbell v2 actuating the chime some time later. After Wyze Support was unable to provide a solution, I did some additional troubleshooting on my own and discovered that the chime was wired incorrectly before I even started. Fixing that resolved my issue, and my chime has worked as expected since that time. For that reason, I recommend doing your own testing and understanding how your system is supposed to be wired and how it’s actually wired.
Agreed 100% - probably half the doorbells I’ve worked on were wired wrong. Old analog doorbells didn’t care that much, but it definitely matters with a doorbell cam or even some of the newer electronic doorbell chimes.
I learned my lesson with my own curiosity and stubbornness. Even with a cheap multimeter and some basic knowledge (sometimes locating the actual transformer is the most difficult part), it’s easy to trace the wires and do one’s own testing to understand how the doorbell system is laid out, especially with these simple mechanical chimes. Having assurance of how things should be and how they are gives a better foundation for installing a video doorbell (especially if it’s one that’s designed to actuate a built-in chime) and helps prevent avoidable problems and unnecessary troubleshooting in the future, I think. That’s why I always recommend this now instead of just jumping in and assuming everything’s correct at baseline.
When I gutted and rewired my house every single wire everywhere is labeled. Even the receptacle boxes for outlets and switches I wrote inside with sharpie “from panel”, “to left”, “to right”, etc. Data wires and coax everyone (generally) thinks to label but doorbell wiring, fire/security alarm, regular electrical, etc just makes it so much easier in the future, even if it is for the next guy. Breaker panel has a color coded map and color coded stickers on each breaker, same for datacom panel. Heck I even put the stickers on the thermostat wires even though they follow the standard color code.
I’ve dealt with so many rats nests and nightmares over the years, I guess it was sort of therapeutic.
@robmag100, what progress have you been able to make with this? I’m curious if the information I was seeing about the chime terminals is correct since I haven’t seen a model like this before, and that knowledge could be useful in assisting other community members in the future.
After much back and forth and research, we decided to go with a couple of wyze 4 window cams instead, it’s just more secure for our situation.
After seeing a handful of people with this type of chime, but not necessarily with wyze cams, I would bet that your suggestion is the correct one. Trans = 1, doorbell = 2.
I was temped to try it just to confirm it works, but I didn’t want to open the box knowing it’s going back.
Thank you for taking the time to “chime” in on this.
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That’s fair. When reading your original post, I figured you were already somewhere in the installation and wanted some assistance to finish that. I still like the Video Doorbell v2 but understand why you might choose another option. I also like the Window Cam and have been really impressed with the color of its images at night given adequate ambient light.
Thank you for taking the time to reply! 
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