It keeps repeatedly failing to connect to my phone. I set it up get it working get video and phone calls then bam! Stops working. Set it up again, works for a while then bam! Stops working. Try to set up again and it suddenly won’t connect. Connection failed. Reset modem and router. It shows wyze connected. Do set up on Doorbell and bam! NO CONNECT. I’m sick of this BS. Lousy purchase. Also I’m sick of all the in app ads. You are getting my money already. Also WHY does my trusted device EXPIRE in 90 days???
Welcome to the Forum, @ladymac5511! 
What specific details can you share about your experience and what product you’re using? You tagged your topic with cam-v1-v2, but I wonder if you actually have Video Doorbell v2 based on your post. If you’re having connectivity problems, then I also wonder about things like your Wi-Fi quality, which app and firmware versions you’re using, and if you’re possibly having issues because of your transformer and wiring.
I have a Doorbell V2. I have tried updating the firmware, deleting and reinstalling the app, restart my android. The breaker is fine. Wiring fine. It worked successfully when it was working. Reset router and modem. Reset Doorbell itself. Scanned qr code. NOTHING. It was working, got video but it stopped ringing phone. I have no idea someone is there. It keeps saying you are being recorded then for some reason that stopped. It says that trusted device expires in 90 days. What the h-? Do I have to keep setting up my android every 90 days??
Thank you. I updated your topic tag to improve visibility within the community.
What actual firmware version is on the device at this time? If you’re experiencing connectivity issues, then it’s important to know which firmware the device is currently using because a number of firmware updates have said in their release notes that they’re specifically designed to improve connectivity.
What testing have you done on the wiring? This still doesn’t reveal anything about your transformer, so I have to wonder if that’s up to the task. Some users have reported problems with these doorbells and then later discovered that it was because they were using under-powered transformers, so I still wonder if that’s possibly part of your problem.
That’s a prompt from the authentication system involved in Wyze’s Two-Factor Authentication (2FA). When you log in to the Wyze app on your phone, the app opens your default Web browser to complete authentication, and the browser gives you that trusted device authentication prompt, which is the same thing you’d see if you were doing something like logging into Wyze Web Portal in a PC browser. Once you’ve authenticated on your mobile device, the browser should pass a token back to the app to complete the login process. As long as you don’t log out of the app, you should remain logged in indefinitely.
Wyze is a horrible camera ecosystem with low quality devices….
I have the latest firmware…4.513.499 I certainly hope I do not need to buy a new transformer and hire an electrician to come out to fix it. If I had to do all that I’d just get a regular doorbell.
If you’re experiencing frequent disconnects, then I’d be focusing troubleshooting on power and Wi-Fi issues, and for power I’d want to know what your transformer’s rated output is (AC Voltage and Volt-Amperes) and what its measured voltage is at the doorbell button’s location. That’s where I’d start with investigating this.
What did Support say when you contacted them?
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Can you TEMPORARILY move your WiFi router closer to the Doorbell v2? My wife hates it when I string Ethernet cable across our living room to test equipment, but she puts up with me. This might determine in WiFi signal is affecting your doorbell.
What works for me is I have a regular doorbell but a Wyze Cam v3 aimed at my porch setup with Person Notifications.
I had 2 db v2’s (front and back db) successfully running for almost 2 years before moving up to the db duos. Transformer is 24/40 but a 10 - 16/30 would be good for a single db v2. You don’t need to hire an electrician to change a transformer unless you have zero electrical experience. Even so, it can be a quick DIY learn from all the Youtube videos available.
Did you locate the transformer and get rated numbers? Assumption is that you connected to existing house chime using the chime controller? What about location distance between your router/gateway and the db, also walls and or obstructions that could be interfering?
I don’t know if this is accurate, but it’s difficult to tell without units. If you mean a 10 V, 30 VA transformer, then I’ve never seen one of those and don’t know if such an animal exists. Wyze’s recommendation is for a transformer rated 16-24 V AC, ≥10 VA, so that’s what I’ve relied upon for reference information. I’ve seen some users report issues with their wired doorbells and then discover that the transformer is 10 V, 5 VA, which is inadequate to the task. I wonder if that’s what’s happening here.
I agree. 
I also think it’s good to have even an inexpensive multimeter in the toolkit and to understand how to use that, and I say this even though 
I am not an electrician.
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I’m now facing the same issue with V2. I deleted my device and made six attempts to connect. Softward is up to date. The unit worked fine for a few months. Connection always fails. I spend 35 minutes with “tech support” doing the same attempts. He said they will email me instructions on how to get the unit replaced. I bought this in January 2025. I have not rec’d any email yet.
What’s your Wyze Support Ticket #? If you had an open ticket within one year of purchase from Wyze or an authorized retailer and they offered to replace the unit at that time, then I can try pinging someone at Wyze about that, but I’d need the ticket number to do that.
In my experience, warranty replacement with Wyze has been pretty easy. I’ve just had to supply some basic contact information and documentation about the device (e.g., MAC address) and evidence of my purchase.
The phone op said that they would email me further instructions. It is a Sunday, so hopefully tomorrow, I’ll get a ticket number.
@Crease - Thanks for the correction, numbers were misrepresented: 16/10 and 16/30 sh/hv been the more appropriate rating stated for a single doorbell. The higher rating the better performance and less likely connection issues.
Agree 100% with the multimeter. I keep 2 ready for use at all times.
A friend got a bunch of those from some guy throwing them out, I took one just for memories sake (and heck, an “all else fails” backup). They all had the original cases. Actually worth a bit of money to collectors and old school tech guys.
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Have you taken the back cover off your Simpson to check the batteries? I leave batteries out of mine unless I need to check Ohms so they don’t corrode.
Had a lovely set of dead Evereadys in it. They got tossed and since it is mostly for looks no need to keep any in it.
If you can find Zinc Carbon batteries, they tend to fare better in low drain devices and are less likely to leak when they go dead. But agreed better to just leave them out if you don’t need that function often.
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I’m unfamiliar with this and having no luck with a search. 
I also have two. I picked up a second one last year because I wanted to be able to measure capacitance and the cheapie I’ve been using for years doesn’t have that function.
I reached customer service, they are sending me a replacement unit.