Switch Dissection

Since the Wyze switch release, I have had issues getting the device to stay connected to a Spectrum Askey RAC2V1K Wireless Router.

The device connects as expected, but then moments later disconnects and refuses to stay connected. I have another router that they connect perfectly to so no worries there.

This has led to my reasoning for the Dissection… Still troubleshooting but sharing what the teardown looks like as I was after what wireless radio it uses. It is the RTL8720CM

Anyhow, not a troubleshooting thread, but a sharing of the teardown pics.

@spamoni4 @carverofchoice @Seapup @Newshound @victormaletic @dr.know @tomp @Customer


Great pics, interesting at how simplistic it looks.

Hmm, what makes those screw terminals so notoriously fragile? Maybe their other end isn’t adequately supported by the plastic housing?

Could this switch somehow be used to activate a garage door?

Nice clear close-up pictures, also back and oblique views. Able to read component labels.

@LenBradner, if you are looking for a relative simple GDO opener that is Alexa/Google compliant, take a look at this. This is what I use and is far more reliable than the NEXX GDO device I used. I even used this on a older GDO that simply jumping the terminals would not work. We used his extra remote and added a pigtail that connected to the output of the Sonoff device. Then turned on “inching” in the settings. Works great. App or voice control. And doesn’t replace any existing system, just adds to it.

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Yup… that’s what I have now. I’m looking for something from Wyze so I don’t need different apps to do all this.

You could easily find a 120v coil relay and power it via the wyze switch. Then use the “NO” and “Common” contact of that relay to connect to the two wires on your garage door opener.

(Check with your garage door opener manufacturer first to make sure that it can be controlled via simple contact switch like a door bell button.)

Then make a macro that switches it on and then off a second later, and that’s your GDO button.

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@BillyCroan… LOL… Thank you for your reply, but… “easily find a 120v coil”… nope that’s NOT me… but if you have a way to do this for a novice, I’m all ears! (I mean like with “27 eight-by-ten color glossy pictures with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one”)… And while I can make macros in Excel… I am limited to just that.

I’m with you, I’d love to be able to use a WYZE switch for my GDO, as I also would like to have everything within the WYZE app. Right now I have a Shelly 1 that I use as the garage door opener. It was actually pretty simple, you just have to wire an electrical pigtail so you can plug it into a receptacle for power. Or you could hardwire it, but I just thought this was simple. It’s a simple contact/no contact switch. I have a routine in Alexa to just have it turn on and immediately turn off. Been working great for several years now. I honestly thought I would be able to do the same thing with the WYZE switch, since it doesn’t appear to pass any power across the poles (I think anyway), but I can’t get the WYZE switch to work with my network. I have 30+ WYZE products all working just fine and WYZE support will not get past the fact that it’s my network. But I digress, that is covered in another post!

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I’m more interested in your connection issues. I have 4 wyze indoor plugs (gen 2) that will not stay connected to my eero pro6 access points. Wyze and I have been troubleshooting for weeks to no avail. I add them to the app, they stay connected for a day, then they drop and are lost till I re add them.

The question is, why on earth would you connect you WiFi access point point through a Wyze switch? Just because?

Slightly off-topic, but when, if ever, will WYZE make a 220VAC “contactor” type switch with a decent amperage rating? I have a vacation home with an electric water heater that I want to turn on remotely so the water is hot when I arrive. Currently, I have two WYZE “plugs” controlling each 110VAC leg of the 220VAC circuit breaker seperately, but it’s a “klunky” setup, and I have sometimes had trouble with one or both plugs “responding”. I don’t want to use a regular high-amperage contactor (relay) with a 110VAC coil with a single 110VAC plug as they (the relays) are frequently noisy (hum) when pulled-in, which is not an issue with your outdoor air conditioner compressor, but more problematic in your inside quiet environment. Is this a UL and/or electrical code issue? Other approaches/suggestions?