I accidentally enabled RTSPS on my first camera and was able to switch to RTSP without having to go back through username/password setup, so Iād venture this is likely quick and low risk. Good luck!
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Did you choose RTSP or RTSPS?
Also, do you have frigate running On the same hardware as home assistant?
Iām only using home assistant green for right now, so the hardware has pretty limited resources. I plan to eventually connect up dozens of cameras to frigate so to not overload the HAOS hardware I plan to run frigate on a separate mini PC with an attached Google coral USB. Then have frigate send the RTSP streams to home assistant green. Hopefully thatās not too difficult to do on separate hardware.
Iām curious if anyone else is using separate hardware for frigate v home assistant and if so, do you have any advice?
Make sure both are set as executable
Can you possibly provide guidance for this step? Iām not sure I understand how to do this part. I am running HAOS on a Beelink Mini S12 Pro N100.
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Carver, I have them both on a Radxa X4, with Frigate as a add-on integration. Currently using RTSP, as I wanted to get something working before messing with RTSPS. I may migrate to a mini lenovo with a dual coral card in it, but hoping this will have enough ooompf since it is so low power.
danl: there are a few ways of doing this. Simplest is to install the Advanced SSH & Web Terminal addon, configure the ssh user as root (set a password), then run the addon without enabling protection. This will give you a root shell on the HA server. from there, just issue a the following command:
chmod +x /root/addon_configs/ccab4aaf_frigate-fa/custom-ffmpeg/bin/*
Note the ccab4aaf_frigate-fa folder is my default frigate addon folder for the full access version. Change to whatever yours is if you are using a different version.
Of course, if you have a display and keyboard on the S12, you can do this from the terminal by issuing the login command to drop out of the ha cli, then issue the same chmod command.
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I just set mine up today with the Android app.
The following is written for anyone else having issues getting it to work. Maybe something in here will help you:
One thing that threw me off was that when I flashed the firmware I didnāt have to go through setup again. My camera was just working as normal from the original setup, so I kept thinking the setup failed and tried flashing again a few times wondering why the flash wasnāt successful (assuming Iād have to go through setup again if I flashed the entire firmware). Finally I tried anyway and saw the RTSP setting and the username kept looping, so I thought that was proof the firmware flash failed, but when I checked another V3, I confirmed they donāt have the RTSP setting (it told me they need new firmware updates, and the one I flashed wasnāt giving that error), so obviously the flash was successful. Thankfully everyone in here warned me about the username loop.
Yes, the username loop was annoying. Iād enter in the username and it always went back to the screen as though I never entered it. I tried a dozen different things. Finally got it to work. Itās probably just superstition, but I did the following when it worked:
- turned the camera to face the desk so there could be no motion event
- reset the services in the app
- restarted the camera from the button in the app settings
- went back to advanced settings and then RTSP immediately while the camera was rebooting.
- As soon as it entered that RTSP setting area, I typed in my username
- it worked!
- I then entered a PW, and told it to use RTSPS but it failed to save. It gave the following error:
- I retried a few times but it kept failing to save. I tried going back to the livestream, but it was frozen. I restarted the camera and tried again, once or more even going back to the livestream which was working again and after a few attempts I got it to save successfully.
Again, the above may have been coincidence, but after the first time I got it out of the username loop, it never looped again. So either I broke it out of the loop somehow, or was continuing to do something right after that, or the camera just takes time to fully provision the RTSP setting as implied by this comment in the instructions:
Please Note: If this is your first time setting up RTSP, allow a few minutes for the device to download the necessary software.
So it likely just needs us to wait a while and come back and all of our beating our heads against the wall or other things are probably just superstitions that just needed us to wait a while first. I only know that once I broke the loop it didnāt loop anymore, I was just getting a āFailed to save issueā which only happened a few times before I got it to work by entering in exactly 10 character PW really fast.
EDIT: ā¦Home Assistant setup redactedā¦follow the Wyze instructions
I think in the long run I may want to do like @gnomos and buy a great dedicated mini-PC or server to have both Home Assistant and Frigate on the same machine with a coral card in it instead of a USB Coral. Thanks gnomos for the extra info! 
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Thanks for your guidance! I was able to set the executable permission easily with your instructions. Unfortunately Iām still fighting with my frigate config or otherwise grabbed the wrong ffmpeg build version. Iāll work on this a bit tomorrow and share the config.yaml setup once I figure it out.
If you donāt mind sharing your setup Iām sure it would save me some time. Thanks again for your help!
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@carverofchoice - For the home assistant Generic Camera setup, your config snapshot is a bit different than what the Wyze team put in the instruction doc. Specifically, the items boxed in red, below. Sharing in case you find your frame rate to be too slow, etc.
I used the instructions exactly and have been happy with the results so far, so Iāve not bothered to experiment. I am initially using UDP.
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Thanks, I removed mine. I shouldāve read the rest of the instructions 
I switched to the exact Settings Wyze listed, but it was working for me great with the ones I posted before. 
I donāt notice a difference so far, but might as well keep them the same as everyone else so I can check and confirm anything others report.
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danl, did you see my later edit to add point 6 I forgot about? 
anyway, here is the relevant section of my frigate config:
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I suppose Iāll have to start getting up to snuff on Frigate.
I had loaded the integration once, but it pegged my CPU without a Coral or something.
I run HAOS on a full size HP Z1 G5 Worstation. 12 core I think. Plenty of RAM. (burns more than a Lightbulb, but was inexpensive)
HAOS is in a KVM VM using Virt Manager, which I initially undersized, I can risk breaking it and resize CPU allocations, storage space and RAM.
Iāve looked at the USB Corals, havenāt pulled the trigger yet. Always questionable what Iām buying.
Maybe a Coral card for a slot in the PC would be better, if such a card exists.
Thatās my guess, too, but I havenāt yet tried because Iām giving some other things priority. Thanks for the good wishes!
I havenāt yet been successful even loading the firmware (4.50.16.5055). Tried multiple SD cards. Iām not sure from what I read if Iām supposed to just hold the setup button for 3-6 seconds after applying power. or hold it until the LED turns purple. Attempted both ways, but I never get a purple LED. The LED just alternates red and blue after a few seconds and begins normal power-up. Not sure whatās going wrong, but my best guess is that itās not detecting the bin file on the card.
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Welcome to the Forum, @mikebond62! 
What size and format of microSD card are you using? The article about flashing recommends a 32 GB card formatted FAT32, and Iāve found that to be necessary.[1] When Iāve tried flashing with larger exFAT-formatted cards, Iāve had the same experience youāre describing. I even tried forcing a FAT32 format on a 256 GB card and using that, and the Cam Pan v3 I was attempting to flash never gave me the purple light, so I had to āborrowā a 32 GB card from another device to get the test Cam flashed.
I think youāre doing the right things otherwise. Do please be sure that youāre pressing the SETUP button before powering up the device, and then continue to hold it (Iāve seen it ~3-4 seconds) until you see the solid purple status LED.
Thatās the smallest card Iāve tried. I imagine even smaller FAT32-formatted cards would suffice, but I havenāt had any available and convenient for testing. ā©ļø
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Thanks. I have a 32GB Wyze-branded SD card, and another 5GB class 10 of another brand (Kingstion?). Iāve tried them both, making sure theyāre FAT32. I am pressing SETUP first, then plugging power in and continuing to hold the button.
Also a little unclear on whether the bin file needs to just sit in root, or if it needs to be inside a folder of the same name (ārecovery.wyzepan3.binā). The instructions actually say the latter. In any case Iāve also tried that both ways, repeatedly.
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I did it in Ubuntu, formatted the 64GB cheapy micro center card to MBR/DOS, which is probably fat32.
I mounted card, and unzipped the firmware file in Ubuntu, copied to the SD, no other file present. verified file name.
Inserted card, held button, managed to plug in the Pan V3 one handed to a dangling power splitter cable.
Couldnāt even see the light, just released the button at about a count of 6 doing a 1001 one count.
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Those instructions are wrong when they refer to āfolderā, and several of us have repeatedly told Wyze that they need to update that Help Center article. You should place the .bin file in the root directory of the microSD card.
Iām also using Ubuntu and forced a FAT32 format onto a 256 GB card with $ sudo mkfs.vfat -F 32 -I {appropriate_device_name}, but the Cam didnāt want to see it for flashing with just the .bin file in the root directory. Switching to a smaller (32 GB) card is what got the job done for me.
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Iām gonna try Ollama local, instead of frigate. Running on my Ubuntu host in Docker. Pipe it into HAOS via-bridge.
Try the simple Blueprint, Ai Camera Analysis, by Paulus Schoutsen in the create automations list. Easier to try vs Frigate. 
My HP Z1 G5 is a beast, 64gb RAM, 6 core 12 threads, NVMe. Will try igpu if needed.
Iāll know the results Tuesday next week.
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Honestly, this is the hard part in some cases. considering that most of us already have the cameras mounted and set up, itās hard to plug in the micro USB cord with a single hand while pressing the reset button with another hand, joe would then basically have to use your teeth to help plug the micro USB cord into the camera while your other hand is holding the reset button. Lol
For all of mine, I took them down from their mounted position so that I could do this at my desk much more comfortably. For example to use a surge protector outlet near the camera and then you can hold one finger on the reset button and then easily plug in the usb-a cord and adapter into the outlet with just one other hand (Or just flip the switch on the surge protector to power it on).
I flashed 3 v3s in the last 24hrs with one of these same cards. They work fine
Oh yeah, this is important. I put the .Bin file on the root of the SD card, not in a folder. It seems like anytime Iāve ever tried the folder The flash always fails. I always put the .bin file by itself on the root Of the SD card and it works. Donāt listen to the instructions telling you to put a folder in there. Itās wrong. We keep telling them to fix this instruction error and everybody ignores us and never updates it. So whatever. Just put the .bin directly on the SD card not in a folder and it usually works much better
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Can someone explain to me the difference between Real Time Streaming Protocol and what I see on my.wyze.com/live? After all, isnāt the web site already streaming my camera views in real time? And if I load the app on my iPhone, donāt I already see a live view in real time there as well? Color me confused about RTSP!