Interesting information for anyone who may understand it, which I coincidentally happen to. Just not data for a Wyze Power Adapter as claimed – which hardly requires a 752.7KB document when this pretty much covers it!
Hi,
I am using PoE with a 25’ Cat-6 cable. Once it starts panning or tracking I lose WiFi and need to reboot the camera. Link below are the products I bought. @Newshound, thanks for the incredible post. Do you have any comments on why the PoE solution doesn’t work?
A few comments to Wyze.
- if it is only a matter of the power adapter, why doesn’t Wyze offer a more powerful adapter? The cable provided is fairly short to be a useful outdoor, wired camera. Looking at the forum, there seems to be A LOT of people with this issue.
- Even after the wifi goes out the camera is still powered and the camera is still tracking/panning, the wifi will not come back without a power on/off cycle. Can’t the software recover?
I will test my PoE setup later today. However, it could be your PoE injector not providing enough power.
@spamoni Thanks, you might be right.
I can get it to fail pretty easy just by setting waypoints, but even if I get them set, after a few pans, it dies out.
I just ordered the below item which I am hoping will give enough power. I’ll get back when I test it out.
iCreatin 2-Pack Wall PoE Injector Power Over Ethernet Adapter
Those should work. I actually ran home runs to the locations I want the Cameras and then added a single PoE switch to power them.
This is what I use:
And my splitters are these:
The problem with your set up with the V3 Pan cam is that the camera has a angled USB connection which is required if you want the camera to be able to pan, otherwise a straight micro usb connector will block the rotation. Instead with the two PoE to USB adapters that I use, I can plug the Wyze supplied cable into the PoE adapter. But as you mention, my problem might be with the injector.
I realize that. I will be fine, I will be able to test and see if it works.
- After having constant disconnects seemingly randomly, I finally replaced the 30 foot USB cables I was using with the standard 6 foot cables and instead used normal extension cords (this was going through my attic). That seems to have completely resolved the issue so I believe it was related to the slight change in voltage that was causing the V4 cameras to behave erratic. The only issues I’ve had since has been a couple will go offline during the hottest part of the day which I attribute to the power supplies not being able to withstand the heat. Since this only occurs when the outside temperature is over 98°F (37°C) it doesn’t happen often so I can live with that.
Wouldn’t the USB tester be inaccurate as it shows the power supplied at the adapter, and not the resulting power that reaches the camera at the end of the cable ? I think the reading should be different if it is power adapter, usb cable, usb tester + load, then you can read the voltage that actually reaches the camera ?
You aren’t looking for 5V or above – you are looking for the adapter that puts out the highest voltage. That is your best chance of having a usable voltage at the camera.
But yes, it’s a good idea to test at the end of the cable to make sure you ended up with a usable voltage. If you didn’t, you can try a shorter cable, higher gauge wire, or even a 120V extension cord to minimize the length of the USB run. 