Installing WiFi on Floodlights

I just replaced my Wyze Cam Floodlight v2 with the Wyze Cam Floodlight Pro… I paired the camera with my internet prior to mounting the device. It worked great. It might even work better than your instructions, but you have to have some basic electrical knowledge to do this.

I am a graduate engineer, electricians apprentice, etc.

I high recommend the flip switch connectors shown in photo for this rather than wire nuts.

1 Like

I’m not disagreeing, just would like to hear your rationales for why.

I have some of those flip switch connectors, but I don’t use them very often since the wire nuts seem to take up less space and fit in small spaces easier, and have a direct connection instead of another point of failure.

I always assumed the flip switch connectors were mostly a convenience, especially for something that is only a temporary connection (ie:going to change it out again and want the convenience of an easy change) instead of long term / permanent (I’m no electrician and have never looked it up). What is the benefit of me using the flip switch connectors instead in your opinion? I’m curious now.

I was indicating the flip switches for the hack I am doing. In the actual install, regular wire nuts were used.

I happened to install two systems. I had installed two Wyze Floodlight V2 which never connected the cameras ever.

My hack is for getting the initial install done without glitches.

1 Like

Oh yeah, that makes a lot of sense as you were doing the setup/pairing before mounting! I like to do that with most of my devices too. I will probably use these to do the same thing if I do more floodlights. :+1: (though I already have 6 Floodlight pros already set up…so not sure how my wife will feel about getting even more. :rofl: )

2 Likes

Hi, I cannot get my floodlight pro to setup and pair at wifi step. I moved my router to be next to the mounted camera so i dont think this hack will help.

I posted how I got mine done by using a simple hack. This camera is hard-wired, I did a temporary hard wire using a power strip, a power cord with a plug and bare wires on other end, I connected the black and white wires temporarily. I got the camera to connect near my router and did updates. When connected all worked well.


I hope this helps.

1 Like

I’ve got a similar setup I use for testing various 120V electronics when needed. I actually just use a pair of insulated alligator clips as usually I just need to check something quickly. The Wagos are a good way to connect it somewhat safely for a while to work on it (though note that they don’t hold stranded as well as solid). I was going to build something that used the push in style speaker terminals that would plug directly into the power strip, but I don’t want to make it seem safer than it really is and get too comfortable with it. You sacrificed a nice extension cord (well as nice as 16 gauge can be), I have so may old PC style power cables (5-15 to C13), including heavy gauge ones from enterprise networking gear, so I just gave one of those the snip on the C13 end.

Obviously this is extremely dangerous for people who are not familiar with electricity so should only be considered by those with some knowledge. A lot of times when I do things that aren’t terribly safe (using a cut off male plug to wire up a family member’s furnace to my generator during outages for example) I use an inline GFCI plug that they use on construction sites a lot. Not perfect, but adds a nice safety net.

That ground is floating dangerously close to the hot BTW, but at least you’ll just have a nice light show and a tripped breaker if it wiggles into the Wago :slight_smile:

The neutral is sufficiently far from the fully insulated hot line. There was an air gap as well not shown in the photo.

I meant the EGC green wire hanging out near the hot Wago. :slight_smile: Just busting your balls.

Yes, green is neutral and if it actual does come in contact with the black hot wire when power is on… it is a problems… but less dangerous than cutting live wires with lineman’s pliers… I did that once, quite shockingly, fortunately I was insulated by the handles… do not want to do that again… I still have those pliers after 45 years, every time I see the part of the cutter that melted… I do NOT forget… fortunately, I’ve never repeat that mistake again… :wink: :wink:

To clarify since it is relatively important -

Green can never be used for neutral, even if you re-mark it white. Green is universally the Equipment Ground worldwide.

While there are some slight variations between countries (and for 3 phase or other complex systems), for 120V and 240V:

Black or red wire technical name is Line or Load (depending where in the circuit you are), but usually called Hot. Cannot be re-marked or re-purposed other than black to red or red to black.

White wire technical name is Ground, but typically called Neutral or sometimes Common. In some cases it can be re-marked black or red on both ends and used as hot if it runs a switch loop, or a traveler on a 3-way switch system, though some jurisdictions are no longer allowing that, 2018 code has restricted it a lot more.

Green wire technical name is Equipment Grounding Connector but typically referred to as Ground (which can make it get confused with White).

In 120V systems green ground and white neutral are typically at the same earth potential and joined together back at the panel, but this is not always the case, and even when it is, white/neutral can still carry some energy and potential for electrocution. That is why green is not allowed to be used for anything other than equipment ground, to ensure it always has full earth potential to trip the breaker/fuse, and in theory can never electrocute you, unless something is wired incorrectly.

Everyone that has worked with electrical has had at least one of those mishaps. If you had cut just one wire at a time, would have been fine, but obviously with Romex or other multi conductor type wire, not possible. Accidents always happen, that’s why they have insulated tools, gloves, and other precautions. But if you don’t respect it, it will definitely bite you. Sometimes the worst injuries are not from electrocution itself but from the surprise of the spark. Some have died falling off ladders without ever having gotten shocked. Others have permanent scars in their face as a large spark blew a panel door into them (or the spark itself burned them).

Basically as soon as you get a little comfortable, it reminds you who is boss.

2 Likes

This topic was automatically closed 90 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.