How many Wyze lamp sockets are needed to convert two (2) outdoor candelabra fixtures each with three (3) candelabra light bulbs?

How many Wyze lamp sockets are needed to convert two (2) outdoor candelabra fixtures each with three (3) candelabra light bulbs? I have the candelabra socket converters to screw in the Wyze lamp socket.

I am hoping to use one (1) Cam 3 to power both light fixtures. I can’t find if one Cam 3 camera can support six (6) Wyze lamp sockets?

3 Wyze lamp sockets for each of the two fixtures means both cost and enough space in each fixture is a concern.

Possible options?

Can I remove 2 candle lights in each fixture and leave those 2 spaces empty with no bulb?
Or are there dummy bulbs I can find to replace the 2 real ones so those 2 light sockets do not come on ?

I think that if I only convert one (1) Wyze lamp socket in each fixture and leave the other two candle lights in place, then those 2 will always stay on, correct?

Any other options ? Thanks!

According to the FAQ’s on the product page, 1 V3 can control up to 5 lamp sockets linked in one group. So if you need 6 then you will probably have to use 2 V3’s.

If you are only going to use 5 then you could have all 5 with the same V3.

Sure, either way, or just leave a couple of bulbs mostly unscrewed so they aren’t getting the power needed to turn on, or just leave the socket empty.

Basically any of the options you suggested could work. Your only limit is one cam is needed for 1-5 sockets. Anything else is up to you, and all your considerations seem reasonable as solutions. Pick what you prefer.


Thank you so much!

I think I’ll go with one Wyze lamp socket per fixture and then mostly unscrew the remaining candle lights in each fixture so they stay off.

I believe in the Wyze lamp socket, I can put in a LED light bulb up to 30 watts ? which is equivalent to about 75 Watts incandescent so this will match what the 3 candle bulbs together provide.

Thanks again!

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I’d urge you to consider installing smart switches where the lights are controlled. It’s so much simpler than what you are contemplating. No chaining, no adapters, no wasted space, and you use any regular old bulb that fits. Probably cheaper too. One smart wall dimmer switch is under $20.

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Except you need neutral wiring, so make sure you have that or you’ll be wasting your time.

And the Sockets do have features specially designed for outdoor lamps, but most of those can be replicated through rules with app.

I do agree with Customer that smart switches are awesome if your wiring is compatible with them. Mine isn’t :sob: so I use sockets and floodlights instead.

If you’re going to use a camera there anyway and want a good easy power connection source, then the sockets are great, and really affordable and they work well. Also the Sockets work FAST compared to setting up automations/rules through the rules engine in the app. I even use the sockets indoors in some of my rooms to fully automate my lighting. When the camera sees motion, the lights turn on QUICK and stay on until there’s been no motion for X amount of minutes in a row, then they turn off. I used to have this done with smart bulbs and motion sensors with rules and those are SLOW by comparison. So there is that benefit with the sockets.

Still, if my wiring allowed smart switches, I would have them in almost every room for every light source. I’m really sad I don’t have neutral wiring.

You’ve probably seen it but at least one person said they’re satisfied with the GE Sync switches that don’t need a neutral. (They rely on the presence of a bulb.)

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I looked at it I believe, but it seems like it wouldn’t be much different from using a smart bulb and a sensor using a rule. I am considering switching my bulbs to something that can run locally (I recently got a Hubitat).

I wonder how hard it is to do a battery-operated smart switch that recharges when the lights are on. It could even be programmed to make sure the lights are on for a minimum amount of time during a specific window of time to ensure it always stays adequately charged.

When Wyze released the switch they currently have they said something about working on (or looking into?) another kind of switch that could be used for non-neutral wiring. I hope that is true.

Interesting idea but I don’t see how that would be better overall than the semi-vampiric (for want of a proper term) approach used by the GEs, and they wouldn’t have a rechargeable battery in the wall.

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