Wow, X10 stuff. That’s like last century stuff, eh?
Sam, I will checkout shapeways, thanks for the tip.
Also, I’ve got a bunch of X10 stuff from back in the day. Most of it is still new in the box and never got used. Is it worth anything? What’s it good for these days?
Wild bill, a Pi 3b has 1 gig of Ram while there are various models of the Pi 4, with the bottom end having 1 gig of ram.
I need to fugure out how to enable/view a resource monitor to see if I’m really low. Then I need to figure out how to log that info when the Home Assistant stops responding.
Basically HA no longer responds to the web interface or the app though I can still ping it. I’m running headless so no idea what it says on the display or if it will respond to the keyboard. I had enabled ssh but only have been able to connect to it by ssh on the web interface.
Yeah…now you have some idea as to how old I am.
Good to hear davsav that you will have access to a library 3D printer. I now have several library cards.
I designed a contact sensor shelf support that should work with your setup. This is the link to the STL file:Contact Sensor Shelf.stl
Below is slicer rendering of it.
The two holes are sized for #6x32 machine screws that are spaced 55mm apart and 10mm up from the bottom edge.
For this particular design, you would have to space out the tilt sensor to allow room for the 2.4mm thick shelf side wall.
You are welcome to the STL file. No charge.
Victor Maletic.
Victor,
Thanks for the file.
As I’m new to 3d printing, what program would you suggest I use to edit the file… or make new ones?
I ask because I don’t think there is 10 mm of space available to mount on to and the sensor I made has the tilt switch on one side so I would need to notch one side for the sensor.
davsav, save your X10 stuff for another 30 years, 'cause a Mario game sold for more than $250,000 recently. Or am I wrong about the price. Was it closer to $1 m. ?
Wow Victor. Atta-boys to you for being so generous with your time. And nice work. Looks great.
Hello davsav.
I think the shelf holder will work without modification, or with slight grinding or filing of the tilt sensor sidewall.
I will explain tomorrow why I think it can work with your mailbox as is.
If perchance the shelf holder needs major modification, I would be glad to provide a new STL file based on the measurements you provide. Easier than trying to alter the present file. I don’t have software for modifying the file.
Till later.
Victor Maletic.
I’ve got plenty of old stuff that might be valuable some day, such an unopened AOL disk mailed to me with a 1992 post mark, 9 track tapes from 1985, 8" floppy disks from a NEC Z/80, and the original manuals to my Apple ][+ from 1980.
However, I don’t think my state quarters or Elvis stamps are ever going to be worth anything.
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Victor, I appreciate the offer to edit the file. I suspect it is going to be a while until I can use the library’s printer and it is limited to 1 print per week. For now I’m going to see how long the 2 sided tape holds.
Once that goes, I’m going to make another tilt sensor, but this time with a contact sensor that still has it’s mac ID (so I think I’m going to have to solder with a battery in place). I may place the tilt sensor in a different position, most likely also extend it a bit from the body of the sensor, so that it would slip into a holder better.
What software do you use to create the STL file? I need to learn how to make STL files anyway.
Thanks.
Hello davsav.
Attached is a picture of how the tilt sensor support shelf could be mounted.
The unknown for me is the clearance between the floor skirt and the door. It appears that there may be enough spring in the door to accommodate the support flange. A part of the floor skirt could be folded back a little with hammer and block of wood to make the needed room. Notice in the picture that the support shelf flange hangs below the bottom of the mailbox door. If the sensor support were printed in black, it would not be too obvious.
As for cad software capable of exporting to STL files, I recommend checking out
Top 10 Best CAD Software For All Levels
Published on March 18, 2019 by Carlota V.
I use Civil 3D 2021 for my STL files because I already have it for my civil engineering work.
I have sent the STL file I linked to you to the local library. It should be ready this coming Friday in black.
Victor Maletic.
Victor, thanks for your effort and assistance with this project.
The problem with your theory is that they don’t brick with no battery. It’s some freak combination of LOW voltage that kills them. Otherwise they’d all brick at the first battery change.
I agree that most quality products are shipped with insulators but I’ve also gotten items with weak or dead batteries.
If anyone is throwing away bricked v1 Wyze Door sensors, I’d be happy to take them off your hands, rather than sending them to the landfill. I bought the TI Launchpad hardware that allows re-flashing to regenerate the MAC address, and as long as I know the device’s previous MAC (and it blinks 2 times when battery is inserted), I can rejuvenate them.
So, question on the death of these sensors. It seems that if the battery runs LOW and then dies, they brick and lose the MAC address. But if you catch the low battery in time and change it to a fresh battery , you can save the sensor. This would indicate that the sensor is better off with NO battery installed if you have any spare sensors, correct?
The reason I ask is I just found some NOS sensors on Ebay. When they arrive, am I better off to PULL the batteries out and store them for future use, or am I better off to activate the sensors, label them as SPARE A,B, C etc so that I can then keep them near the bridge in active mode and then just monitor battery life of the spares? Change the batteries on the spares when I get a low battery notification to keep them alive?
Any thoughts on this?
Not sure what these are. If you have Wyze V1 sensors then you are better off removing the batteries. I never received the low battery notice on any of my failed sensors.
I store my backup V1 sensors without batteries and have had no issues. When the battery is reinstalled, they function correctly.
Thanks Mark R. I’ll try that when the spare units arrive.
Sorry, NOS stands for “new old stock”.
The only challenge now is to hope when the new (old stock) ones get here the factory batteries haven’t died and bricked the units already. I guess I’ll try to connect them, and if successful, pull the batteries and set them aside in case I have any of my other still working units die on me.
I had one die over the Christmas holidays. Received the dreaded low battery warning but I was out of town and by the time I got back a few days later… too late. So frustrating…
The MAC loss happens with a brownout condition AND a change of state so your best bet is to keep magnets away and then remove the batteries.
That is why an undisturbed sensor will survive a completely dead battery. There was no change of state as the battery died.
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