If I have doorbell v1, what do I have to do to the wiring to remove it and use v2? I seem to recall there are some small resistor or fuse that were added inside the home chime during the bypass. Does the little fuse wire inside the house chime need to be pulled off? They came with the v1 doorbell. It would be nice if there was a guide specific to installing the v2 AFTER a v1. I am sure this is a common use case amongst wyze owners.
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Are you planning to reinstate the use of your existing house chime or continue to bypass it? Note that the wireless chimes that are used with the V1 will not pair with the V2.
Hi, hopefully my use case is not too complicated.
I have 2 locations with doorbell v1. Both are “bypassed” with fuses inside the 1 legacy wall chime. Thus, 2 Wyze chimes are in use. I understand the wyze chimes are not compatible with the v2. I only have 1 transformer, and the way the doorbells were setup in my home, both legacy doorbells feed into the 1 chime and ring the legacy wall chime differently (1 ding at the back, 2 dings at the front). I dont really need a doorbell at all at the back, it’s just a superconvenient place to have a camera. Thus my use case is : doorbell v2 at the front, and (hopefully) leave doorbell v1 at the back. Not sure this is going to be possible… but as I understand it, I should try to return my setup to “orgininal” config and go from there, setting up the v2 with the new chime controller and once I get it working, see if I can still use the v1 at the back door. Myabe I will have to get a v2 for the back too? maybe I will need to make a new homerun wire for the backdoor… a little confusing at the moment. But I am confident I can get the front door and the v2 working without much trouble. Its the re-integration of the v1 into the setup on back door that matters to me… and again, I dont actually need a bell on the back, just a working camera 
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Understood. It sounds like isolation of the Front Door chime circuit producing that sound will be necessary when installing the Chime Controller for the V2.
The Transformer will just need to be powerful enough to carry both Doorbells @ a sustained 10VA. Since you are already powering two V1 with it, I don’t suspect there will be issues with powering the V1\V2 combo in the same manner.
The fused link that is wired into the supply on the V1 is a safety fuse to blow if there is a power surge from the transformer so that the V1 doorbell isn’t fried. That should always remain in the power supply line to the V1.
The V2 does not come with a Fused Link. Instead, the Chime Controller has a fused circuit within it to protect the V2 Doorbell from power surges and keep it covered by warranty. If the V2 isn’t installed w\ the chime controller, a fused link should be installed on the power supply line. Installing one in the circuit before the Chime Controller would protect both just for added safety.
well, this has been a pretty horrible experience. i go out today and grab a larger trransformer, 24v 15A. install it. I go to remove all my bypasses and leave the back doorbell disconnected (until I get the v2 on the front working). There is no room in the wall chime for this little chime controller box. that thing is already stuffed to the max. what exactly are we supposed to do with it? to make matters worse, it looks like the ultra thin wires inside the wall chime got damaged when i was inspecting it and now I have to go buy a new wall chime. LOL. I wonder if this hunk of junk is even going to work properly once I get it installed. I am not at all impressed, this feels like a rushed product. does anyone know if the software allows you to power cycle the doorbell cam from the app like you can with a regular wyze camera? or will I have to keep flipping the breaker like I do with the v1?
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well i am still without a working doorbell!
My trip to the hardware store to replace the wall chime was positive… I found a “Digital” doorbell with much more room in the box for the “chime controller”. The camera on the front doorbell is working! yahoo. wait… no… the camera works, but the chime doesnt make any sound when the doorbell is pressed. one thing that is interesting, the wall chime said a “diode” must be installed on the doorbell terminals, and it even came with a diode. should I place the diode across the two terminals behind the v2 doorbell? the manual says chimes wont play without this diode… however, the manual also says some pushbuttons have a diode already… i dont really know what the v2 has, and there is no talk of any diode usage anywhere in the v2 setup.
It may be necessary to run jumper wires outside the chime box and attach the chime controller to the outside of the box w\ adhesive. 
Since it is powered 100% of the time, like the V1, I would assume that is going to be the same way. It most likely has a Reset in the App like all the other cams, but that isn’t a power cycle. That requires the power to be cut like physically unplugging the other cams.
I have my VDBv1 setup for a remote power cycle. I have the transformer plugged into a Wyze Plug so that I can just cut the power remotely if it ever did need a power cycle. I haven’t had to do that in many, many months though. When I install my VDBPro, I am going to do the same so that I can force it into battery mode at night on an automated schedule to kill the K-Mart Blue Light Beacon.
well, more testing and some success! first, I used the diode. that was comical. the doorbell rang non-stop. but at least I 1) knew it worked 2) could change the ring tone of it.
So then i put the diode on the other way (a diode only lets current go in 1 direction). same result. OK, removed the diode.
Then I tried “mechanical” mode even though its a digital bell. nada.
Last I tried moving the duration of the chime. voila. I played with it a bit and for my ring tone, 3s is the right amount. So I guess this is now success? My only other thing or thought is the 24v transformer is likely too much. I think i need to go back to a 16v, but a higher VA. going to look for one online. home depot local only has 16v 10VA, some other posts say 16v 30VA is the better choice. would you experts agree that this is now a success? I think the problem was the chime duration defaulting to 1s, which isnt long enough to play any tone. Also, there is a slight 1s delay from the time you press the button to when it plays the chime inside. no big deal, likely normal operation. again, YMMV, this is my result with a new digital wall chime and a 24v 15va transformer.
the other non doorbell cams have a “power off” mode even though they are powered 100% of the time via their mains plug. So why couldnt wyze have this doorbell (or just the camera part) have a power on/power off software button I wonder… my outdoor v3s all have that.
They do not have a “Power Off” button. They have an “Off” button. Very different.
When a Cam is turned off via the app, it remains 100% powered and consuming the same power as when running ON. The WiFi remains active and the Cam continues to communicate with the server. The only things that stop with the Off button is they stop recording, live streaming, executing Rules commands (other than ON), and uploading video. There is actually a bug in the firmware that will allow the cams to continue to Detect Motion and Record to the SD card when “Off” if a specific scenario sequence occurs.
Because the cams must be able to receive an ON command while it is “Off”, it has to remain active and connected to the server. When you turn it Off, you are essentially telling it to “sleep” and wait for an On command. You are not turning the power off. The firmware maintains it’s previous load, the settings it received from the server on its last boot remain active, the RAM is maintained.
The only way to Power off any AC Powered Wyze Cam is to unplug it. This disconnects it from the WiFi and turns off the Cam CPU, dumping the RAM. If a Power Cycle is needed, it must be unplugged for at least 30s and plugged back in.
A very good question. I don’t know what the limitation is to being able to turn it off. But that is why I have mine plugged into a Wyze Plug.
I’m GUESSING that what is needed is a 16 vac / 30 VA transformer.
I am NOT an expert just guessing based on what is said on Amazon about what is needed for OTHER brands of video doorbells.
In those instructions it says 16/10 is NOT enough but does NOT say how much is needed.
How frickin’ hard can it be to simply TELL us? Or at least guide us a bit more. It is going to cost $15 for every transformer guess I make and at least 3 days for each attempt.
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Very hard. It completely depends on the Amp draw required by your chime and the output of your transformer. There are hundreds of different chimes with all different power requirements and hundreds more transformers. If the transformer on the existing chime is already at max capacity to run the chime, adding a +10VA doorbell and Chime Controller is going to make that transformer underpowered to run all three.
Best bet, since yours is capable of running your chime without the doorbell, but not with, add 20 VA and it should be plenty.