Doorbell camera v2 not saying "ready to connect"

Cameras
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1

I am trying to do a first time install. I get to the point of flashing orange light, but I never hear the voice “ready to connect”.

If I continue to try and connect to one of my networks I get to the point of a blue steady light and trying to scan the QR Code. This never says connected either and never really finds the network on the next step though it seems like it is trying to connect to the network.

I have not confirmed my voltage? 16-24v?

When trying to connect with my other network it won’t get past the flashing orange light. So it does seem to be working somewhat.

Doorbell is hooked to chime and it never chimes yet either.

2

Welcome to the Forum, @brentedg! :wave:

I’m unsure if this is a statement or a question and—if it is a question—what you’re trying to ask. Confirming your transformer’s power output is where I’d start, though, assuming everything was working as expected with whatever you were previously using to trigger your doorbell chime.

In my case, I had a “dumb” doorbell button wired to a built-in mechanical chime and powered by a transformer with 16 V AC, 10 VA output. Even with that information in mind, I used a multimeter to test the voltage at the doorbell button’s location prior to beginning my installation. (It puts out >18 V when measured with the inexpensive multimeter I picked up at Harbor Freight Tools and have been using for years.) Video Doorbell v2 was my first doorbell camera (though not the first one I ever installed), and I really like it.

:information_source: Something else I’ve learned while troubleshooting this device: Apparently at the time my home’s doorbell was initially installed (or perhaps some point later when painting or other work was done), the wires to the mechanical chime were connected to the wrong terminals. The wire attached to TRANS was actually coming from the doorbell button’s location, and the wire connected to FRONT was coming from the transformer. Since I figured that out and corrected the issue (again, using the multimeter), my Video Doorbell v2 has consistently and reliably actuated the chime as expected. Because “dumb” doorbells don’t really care about a TRANS/FRONT mix-up, I suspect this is a common wiring situation, so it’s something I like to advise people check when installing smart doorbells, where it really does matter, especially when you’re wiring in something like Video Doorbell v2’s Chime Controller.

I’m not quite sure what’s going on with your situation, but, again, I’d begin by verifying/measuring your transformer’s power output, and I’d also submit a log and open a ticket with Wyze Support.

This is how I prefer to submit tickets (you can click/tap to expand this):
  1. Visit the Help Center: https://go.wyze.com/help[1]
  2. Click into the “AI-powered search” box in the middle of the page and enter create ticket.
  3. Click Yes, that is correct.
  4. :point_up: Repeat Step #3. (:face_with_symbols_over_mouth: UGH! :roll_eyes:)
  5. Click No, I do not like chatbots.
  6. Click This is about a product.*
  7. Click Other.*
  8. Click Create Ticket
  9. Enter your contact details and a brief issue description (include a Log ID if you have one) and click Submit.

     * Make your own appropriate/relevant choices here.[2]

It doesn’t really matter how brief the description is. Wyze’s system will generate an e-mail message to you automatically with a Wyze Ticket number, and you can just reply to that message from your e-mail client and add as much detail as you want.

If you’ve never heard any voice prompts at all from the unit, then I suspect that it might be defective and that Wyze may offer a replacement. Opening a ticket can get the ball rolling on that process.

  1. This might be a good one to bookmark. ↩︎

  2. I’m demonstrating my typical path. The number of steps will likely be the same and result in the identical endpoint regardless of the choices you make. ↩︎