I had the doorbell with bypass for a few weeks and it worked just fine. Once I got the chine controller and installed it, it won’t stop buzzing. What am I missing here?? Also, I have no black wire, just two sets of red and white.
Welcome to the Forum, @ncuneo10! 
Thank you for including such a clear photo! 
I am not an electrician.
What did the chime box wiring look like with Chime Controller installed? If everything is wired correctly in the photo you shared showing the bypass with the jumper wire (i.e., if the red wire connected to the FRONT terminal really is connected at the other end to the Battery Video Doorbell and the white wire connected to the TRANS terminal really is connected at the other end to your transformer), then this is what I would expect to see:
- Jumper wire removed from chime.
Chime Controller’s red wire spade terminal connected to chime’s TRANS terminal along with existing white home wire.
Chime Controller’s white wire spade terminal connected to chime’s FRONT terminal with red home wire disconnected from that terminal.
Chime Controller’s black wire connected to red home wire with wire nut.
If your previous front doorbell button and transformer were correctly wired to the chime, then what I would expect to see at each of those locations is a red and white wire pair attached to separate screw terminals of its respective device (Battery Video Doorbell’s back screws, transformer’s load-side screws) . Each wire pair then likely meets at the chime, where one wire from each pair is connected together (the yellow wire nut in your photo) and the other wire from each pair is connected to an appropriate chime terminal. In your case, the red and white wires that are connected with the yellow wire nut should correspond with the green line in the diagrams found in the Chime Controller Installation Guide.
If you used the alternate wiring instructions, where you leave Chime Controller’s white wire disconnected, then my understanding is that some buzzing or humming from the chime itself (not the Chime Controller device) is expected and considered “normal”, or at least that’s what Wyze Support once told me when I had to do some troubleshooting with them. I would avoid that and use the standard wiring (as described above and in the first link to the standard installation guide) if at all possible—and it should be possible in your case if I understand your system correctly.
It’s also conceivable that your chime was wired incorrectly before you started. That was my situation (what prompted my troubleshooting with Support), where I didn’t realize that the wire connected to my mechanical chime’s TRANS controller was actually coming from the doorbell button location, and the wire connected to the chime’s FRONT location was actually connected to the transformer at the other end. I eventually figured that out by doing my own testing with a multimeter, and that resolved my video doorbell problems and allowed my home’s built-in mechanical chime (very similar to yours) to actuate as expected. This is one of the main reasons I always recommend testing and confirming that things in the system are wired and performing as expected (especially the chime and transformer) at baseline.