Make sure your router is set to 20mhz on the 2.4ghz band, not 20/40, 40, or auto.
Also ensure the wireless mode is set to N/AX on that band, I would avoid auto or AX only.
Excellent! We’re getting somewhere. 
Now please explain… when you said this:
What exactly did you mean by “router reset” and why did you do a a router reset? Were you having some sort of problem that required a reset or did your provider force an unsolicited reset?
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My router is using 5G not fibre. In any case occasionally my TV won’t stream to full capacity so I learned in this case to reboot my router.. maybe once a month. Then the wyze cameras sometmes do not re connect .. maybe they forget IP or whatever, thats when I have this problem. I’ve had it before with same router, ssid etc and always managed in haphazard way to get them working but thus time I couldn’t get them to work. Glad its sorted now. Your trick with the mobile Hotspot gave me a way to test so , thanks for that.
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No problem. I’m glad to help. Would you by chance be using a Rain 5G router?
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I have a 5G gateway at my cottage and the speed/signal fluctuates tremendously. It’s just the nature of the beast. It’s not that Wyze cameras forget their IP addresses but when the signal and upload speed drops below normal threshold, cameras can’t authenticate with Wyze servers hence constant disconnects.
If user is using a Rain 5G router, their service is being throttled regardless of what their provider claims (it’s fairly easy to test/prove). It’s been well-documented. And that is a severe problem when you upgrade your cams to 2K or 4K and start live streaming along with entertainment streaming. The throttling and data caps by that provider are pretty harsh, even with their advertised “unlimited” service, as are the locality laws concerning use of cams. Even VPN/proxy is affected so users can’t circumvent. Most affected eventually give up and simply switch providers.
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Yes I realise that fluctuation but whatever the situation, my problem was that after a power cycle the v4 cameras sometimes do not reconnect and could not see or accept the SSID . (I have found out how to overcome this now)
Yes indeed! A Rain 5G router.
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You’re going to get more frustrated as you add more cams or upgrade to better quality cams with your current service and router. You should also check to see if what the router’s connection limit is. If the limit is small and handled via DHCP range and you are at the limit, you may be able to expand the range through the router’s admin tool. I wouldn’t be surprised though if the limit is hardcoded in firmware.
Topics such as yours remind me to be appreciative for mesh WiFi tied to inexpensive true unlimited multiple fiber feeds to my house. 
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Can you stretch your fiber over to my house ? We may get some in my area in about 5 years.
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While that router/service may throttle you and interfere with the feed itself sometimes, that should not have anything to do with whether the cam can see the wifi network or not, that’s totally independent of the internet service coming into the router.
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I just have to report back that unfortunately this method of using a mobile Hotspot to test and to set up a duplicate SSID and password on 2.5GHz and then switch back to my routers guest 2.4GHz connection will not work today. Im tired of this ridiculous re-connection issue. I will never buy another Wyze product and will be getting rid of my v4 cameras and Plus subscription . It is crazy that in 2025 that a user should have to struggle with such inconvenience and reliability issues.
Why are you resetting your cam(s) multiple times? Inability to live stream?
Did you check to see what your routers’ maximum number of devices/connections is and how many total devices you have that access your router?
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I don’t know how to find this out. This Wyze kit is a heap of %:&%. I’ve bought 3 cameras iver 3 years. 1x V3 and then 2x V4s. The old V3 connects, and has stayed connected through all this but the V4s are unable to see the SSID, Time to cut my losses. But I will say that I will put off anyone who asks me about Wyze. Too late for me to get a return. I’ve spent houes today trying to find a reliable solution, but cant invest any more. Thanks for trying to help. If Wyze had real support eg over WhatsApp I might gave gotten somewhere. Its problem living in the tip of Africa, many time zones away. Oh well, Tapo here I come 
I’m sorry to see you go, but I understand. Just my personal thoughts if I lived in your location… I would try to get Rain tech support out to diagnose 1st and if they can’t find a solution, try temporarily setting your Cam v4 on a friend’s non-Rain network. If that doesn’t work, buy local so you have face-to-face recourse and support. If you have an Orms retail store near you, you can pick up Eufy cams and get direct support from their store if problems arise.
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Thanks. First Rain is 100% useless at support, literally take it or leave it.. but it works very well for me for broadband access where I live, where only wireless is possible. I may try another broadband provider though (Wibernet) with a different router. (Hopefully better tech support).
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Why are you getting angry at/blaming Wyze for your ISP’s equipment issues?
Did you try any of the suggestions I made for changing some settings in the router - which if they are the issue, will be necessary with any cam brand - or do you plan to just keep buying and throwing stuff away?
No comment.
I’m so chuffed I mothballed the V4s, and bought Tapo, same price, so easy to set up, so much more capable without any subscription. Just to close this topic. Sometimes a loss is a gain overall. Im still grateful for all the positive, supportive prior inputs.
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@Zozo. I am afraid he was so upset, he has stopped checking in. So, primarily this idea is for him. But it will work other places too. Just consider this to help. I’m the most contingency/backup paranoid person here. I always want a back up. I will always put twice the work in to prepare to have an alternative way to do something. That’s what motivates this.
Regardless of your ISP, “you have a router” Usually supplied by the ISP. In some cases, its “fixed” so you can’t change its SSID and passphrase. THAT’s where this helps. I call the ISP cable modem “A” and I call their supplied router “B”.
Get yourself an additional router. I don’t care if it’s one router or a mesh router system. It should be at least the same speed/WiFi rating as the “B”, You know, WiFi 6 or 6e, maybe WiFi 7. If you don’t know, we encourage you get WiFi 6e, for future proofing. We call it “C”. This might be where you find a router that you can separate 2.4 and 5 if that’s your preference.
Regardless if “B”’s SSID or password can be changed, - we don’t care. Because we are going to use it as a pass through. We are simply going to plug our “C” wired/Ethernet into one of “B”’s ports. (Yes, I assume that “B” has wired ports.)
So, first, setup “A”, and wait 2+ minutes for it to boot. Plug in and turn on “B”. Once its up, - just for a test, plug your computer into one of its ports and see if your Internet connection works. Or, connect to its WiFi, maybe with laptop, iPad, phone, just to see if it works. Does? Go, now, disconnect from it.
Get “C” out and setup the first/main/only router “C” and set the SSID and password to something you like, something different than “B”. You don’t need special characters or blanks. You are not running the Secure WIFI network at the Pentagon, so just make it random that its not easy to guess. Write it down and tape it to your router.
Now, everything in the home, the IoT, the Smart home stuff, the tablets, computers, TV, stuff, we are going to connect to “C”. Divide it up if you wish. Leave 2.4 & 5 as one SSD, or separate them, or create that guess or IoT network. I don’t care, it does not matter. You used “A” and “B” just to get “C” up and running on the Internet. You use “C” for your toys.
Now, if you want to restart A” and/or “B” you can. We don’t care. Many times, you can reboot them without messing with “C”. But 99% of the time, even if you reboot “C”, after “A” and “B”, - “C” is going to come back up no matter. Just don’t go messing with any of your “connected toys” while “C” is rebooting. BUT, if you have a problem, just power/take power away from that toy so it will get a fresh reconnection when it boots back up.
In the discussion above, there was a brief concern that the Rain router might have a connection limit. Using this technique, the Rain router only sees 1 connection - the “C” router. So even all the toys connected to “C” are not using any more bandwidth than if they were each connected to the Rain router.
Another reason we do this, IF there’s an issue, with the ISP’s cable modem/router combo, or the ISP ‘B” router, we can simply swap it out, reconnecting “B” to “C” and we don’t have to reconfigure any of our “C” connected toys.
And go back to the beginning of this, IF that router is one of those (like Spectrum is issuing out) has a SSID and passphrase that you can’t get inside to change, - using our own “C” with its different (we selected) SSID and password IS NOT IMPACTED if the “B” is swapped out or fails and is swapped out.
This works, even if you don’t like it. Can save some work, when you are desperate to get back on the Internet. And it seems that when we get knocked off the Internet, we are desperate to get back on the Internet and will do anything. It always happens at the worse time, ya know? So, this sort of help prevent having to do lots of work later. And you don’t have to do all this at once, you can get “C” and transition from “B” to “C” slowly.
If you get a new 6e or 7 WiFi system, good, you are future proofing your home network. If you cheap out and right now, just get a WiFi 6 or even WiFi 5, you will notice a little sluggish, BUT, later if you upgrade to a WiFi 6 or 6e, or WiFi 7, your upgrade is going to be easy. All you have to do is, shutdown your old “C”, and when you setup the new “C” use again both the same SSID and password you were using on old '“C”. Because when you do, all your connected toys will rejoin the “C”. Maybe/might have to power down a couple and start them back up. But so easy, its too easy.
I leave you with one fun thought. I have two ISPs. One is my backup. It has its own “B”, (luckily I can configure it). I really don’t need to create a “C” for it, but I did. You will love this. I added one of my Wyze routers to “B”. And for a SSID for the Wyze, I named it. “Police Surveillance Van #3”. This should give my neighbors something to think about.