Aiming V1, V2, V3 and WCO Basics and with Rt Angle Bracket

Hello Everyone.
I have read multiple posts in the last 2 years that deal with aiming the V1, V2, V3, and WCO. The greatest concerns are out of plumb camera field-of-views when the camera is mounted directly to a wall or vertical surface and pointed downward and to the side. In most cases, this is easy to correct.

The picture below depicts the basic geometry of a Wyze camera and its aiming features.

The key concept from the picture above is that there are three components for the aim of any camera:

  1. Vertical - The amount of Down or Up angle relative to the top of the Base. 
                        Example:   V20°D means the vertical angle is 20° down.
  2. Swivel  -  The amount of Left or Right angle from the straight-ahead (zero) about
                         the swivel axis.
                         Example: S15°R means the swivel angle is 15° to the right of zero.
  3. Base      -  The amount of angle the camera's base is moved left or right from
                          straight-ahead (zero).
                          Example:  B12°L means the base is rotated 12° left of zero, often zero
                          is the face of a  wall, front of a shelf, or a window.

The examples for the camera above would be written as V20°D, S15°R, B12°L.

In practice, the above aiming nomenclature described above is not needed to aim a camera when aiming is done by trial and error or better yet by the camera’s live view.
The purpose of the nomenclature is to quantify the comparisons of cameras with different views.


Cameras that are placed on shelves, table tops and etc. are typically aimed level or downward and straight ahead or to one side. To obtain a plumb view through the camera use the Link Joints to set the Vertical Downward or Upward aim angle. For the horizontal part of the aim (left or right) DO NOT use the Swivel Plate, in other words, S=0° always, I would tape the swivel plate fixed at straight-ahead (zero). Instead, move the camera’s Base to point in the needed horizontal direction. For best results use live view through the camera. You will always get a plumb view through the camera.


The next several pictures show a wall-mounted camera in various stages of aim and its corresponding field of view. The initial aim components are V15°D, S0°. B0°. With direct-to-wall mounted cameras the Base rotation direction is CCW or CC (counter clockwise or clockwise) instead of left or right.

This is the camera’s field of view. Note, in the center vertical lines are displayed plumb.

The picture below shows a camera and its field of view with an aim of V15°d, S40°R, and B0°. The intent here is to aim this camera about 40° to the right of straight-ahead and down 15°.

Note the pronounced tilting of the image near its center.

These three pictures below show a camera and its field of view with a correcting Base rotation. The aim of this camera is V15°Down, S40°R, and B15°CCW.

The picture below shows a way of maintaining Base rotation using tape. A small keeper plate could have been placed next to the Base with a screw instead.

Note the fence boards are looking plumb.

Some combinations of Vertical, Swivel, and Base rotations will NOT provide a satisfactory aim, this is because swivel actions can cause interference between the camera’s body and base.
To get consistently good results, support a wall-mounted camera with a Right Angle Bracket. This brings up the next topic.


Below are some pictures of an Rt. Angle Mount being made from some scrap sheet steel.

1-3 Complete and Painted

The next pictures show a camera on the Rounded Rt Angle Mount and its field of view at different Base angles, 0°, 20°, and 40°, Swivel angle is kept at 0°. I recommend that the swivel plate be taped over at 0° to prevent accidental engagement.

In each of the 3 horizontal aims shown below the camera’s base was rotated relative to the back of the bracket for the desired horizontal aim. Using a camera’s live view is the best way to get the aim you want.

The picture below shows that a right-angle bracket cannot provide a good view if the S and B values are swapped.

Why bother with the rounded corners you may wonder. The rounded edge is a corner that cannot enter into the camera’s field of view because it is gone.

This support can easily be made of wood or printed in 3D. Below is a link to a free STL file that you, a friend, or a local library could print.

V3 Rounded Rt Angle Mount.stl


This is very similar to using an Rt Angle Bracket on a wall, except with a flip. Here also the Swivel Plate should be taped or even glued at zero° to prevent unintended engagement, The pictures below show how simple it is. Background light can be blocked with a shield made from heavy paper taped over the camera and bracket at the appropriate location.

Below is a link to the cord anchor shown in the picture above.

V3 Ribbon Cord Anchor.stl

And here is a link to a round cord anchor.

V3 3mm Cord Anchor.stl



Wow! @victormaletic
Thank you for sharing.

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@victormaletic Thanks for all the great information. Through trail and error during my initial installation of my 4 WCO 1.6 years ago I finally figured out that I needed to rotate the Camera base angle CCW 15-20 degrees to get a straight view from the cams mounted on the sides and back of my house. I like the Simpson-Tie idea also, many positions to chose from. :grinning:

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