I like it. I am assuming you are using glue or something to make sure your magnet doesn’t come out. Although it is a little hard to say from this one angle. But maybe you should think about dropping the magnet into place from the inside. This would provide 2 benefits. 1 you wouldn’t need glue and it would stay in place. 2 you wouldn’t see the magnet.
Another option if you are like me and just like playing around with these types of things is maybe try and make is screwless. I can think of a couple ways to accomplish it using compliant mechanisms.
One thing I don’t like and it is a hard problem to solve is the different styles and sizes of the handle. That and my wife being very focused on looks lead me to using the bolt.
It is definitely a work in progress. For my primary application, which is a garage door, I’m less concerned about the aesthetics. But I can see this being used elsewhere, so improving that aspect has appeal to me. It is perhaps a bit oversized, which is a result of the original model I remixed it from. I actually don’t mind that for this application. Having a larger thumbturn could be an advantage if I have gloves on or hands full with other stuff. I did intend to glue the magnet for this one.
I definitely agree that building a one size fits all would be challenging. The current one has a “split” down the middle to accommodate this, so it seems to work within a certain tolerance. It’s basically a compression/friction fit. I have some ideas around that, but am not sure how to model it.
- I like the concept of a no hardware “compliant” mechanism. I had some ideas on this, but would be open to suggestions. This would likely allow for a further reduction of overall size/mass.
- I liked the concept of using the stock magnetic end, but it just adds too much size.
- I suspect the magnet could be half the size. I sized it for a 1/2" ceramic, but I suspect a 1/4" would work. This would allow for the overall size/mass to be further reduced.
I’d be happy to collaborate on a refinement.
It’s definitely on the larger size…I’ll test fit it on the door tomorrow:
Hello, holocron and others on the thread.
You have a very interesting approach to the “what is the state of the deadbolt”.
I have some thoughts about your design that may make it operate better, slim down its extent, or really simplify it.
Move the clamping holes closer to the ends of the thumb-knob recess. The clamping screws will then exert a more direct friction force on the thumb-screw with less bending forces in the plastic.
If the magnet is replaced with a smaller 3/8" or 5/16" ø, the body could be trimmed down a little. Any concerns about magnetic strength could be addressed by piggy-backing the magnets and placing them in a deeper receiving hole.
When attaching the accessory to the thumb-screw, place some double-sided tape on the inside of the receiver hole before placing it over the thumb-screw and applying the clamping screws
Skip the clamping screws, holes, and compression slots. Instead, make the thumb-screw accessory a push-fit. Could also glue or epoxy it on. Of course, it wouldn’t come off so easily.
Use your printer to make a negative mold, tape the magnet to one end with double-sided sticky tape, fill the mold with melted poly-beads (melts at about 140°F with hot water) place the thumb-screw into it while it is soft. Pour some cold water over it freeze it. This poly-bead stuff sticks very well to surfaces so a bond-breaker would need to be applied to the casting form. This would provide a very close fit to the thumb-knob. Would you believe there are medical grades of this ploy-bead plastic that can be used inside the humane body to provide form and support, such as holding broken bones together?
As you indicated earlier this is a work in progress. I look forward to what you come up with.
Another idea for the 3D printer folks. Print up a small strip of plastic about 2.5"x0.75"x0.0625". One end would have a recess for a disk magnet. The opposite end would have a hole that matches the cross section shape of the deadbolt’s thumb-knobs axial. An outrigger bar that carries the magnet to or from the contact sensor’s sending unit. The length of the strip would be profiled to follow the contour of the round bezel under the thumb-knob.
Hello @victormaleticand thanks for the additional thoughts. As I noted, this was an initial remix of an existing model. The version above isn’t even the first version. I initially did a version that used the stock magnetic half of the contact sensor, but felt it was too big despite the idea that it uses all stock components.
The space could likely be trimmed further, but again this was a fast prototyping approach.
Addressing your other comments:
- Yes, this is a thought, but my preference is to not use a “set screw” to directly contact the lock parts to prevent possible damage/marring.
- Yes, I noted above that a smaller magnet could be used to reduce size. I agree with this.
- I would not want to use any tape.
- I have thought about this too. A couple “hooks” at the bottom of the thumbturn opening could catch on the bottom of the turn, but the concern is that these might inhibit operation. Some locks have minimal clearance between the bottom of the thumbturn and the cover plate. Glue/epoxy is not an option, IMO.
- This is too involved for the overall idea of simplicity.
Great ideal overall. Thanks for the input.
My suggestion for item 1 was to move the clamp screws closer to the ends of the thumb-knob for greater mechanical advantage. Not a set screws.
Till later, Victor.
I upgraded and enhance this post as a new Tips and Tricks.
See My Wyze Smart-ish Lock Another Approach II
. This is another response to your post #17 and a continuance of my post #18.
Since our last correspondence, I have learned enough about AutoCAD Civil 3D to create solids by extrusion and subtract them to obtain the final solid. I would like to send you the STL file from which a print can be made. I would pay for the print and you can keep the file with all rights.