WYZE floodlight disabled non-WYZE floodlight sensors

Anyone have this problem?

I have 3 non-WYZE flight lights (Home Depot) on one circuit. I wanted to replace 1 of them with the WYZE floodlight. After WYZE installation, the other two Home Depot floodlight sensors no longer work, the lights stay on constantly. I’ve tried resetting from the breaker, lowering the sensitivity, on/off etc, but they only stay on.

The WYZE floodlight works fine. But the other two do not.

Any advice would appreciated.

Welcome to the Wyze User Community Forum @prudolph! :raising_hand_man:

If they are like my standard PIR Floodlights from Home Depot, when you cut the power and turn them back on like that, it is like flipping the light switch off then back on. That is the signal to the light that you want them on full time and to bypass the PIR. It is actually a function built into those floodlights.

It really depends on what model you have, but the ones I have have to be turned off for 30 seconds and then back on to reset them back to PIR after they are used full time.

Home Depot has instructions to try:

I just took a look at the floodlight I pulled down when I put up my Wyze Floodlight Pro. It is a newer one than the others. It is a Heath Zenith 5411-A

Found this in the User’s Manual online:

Thanks for the reply. I have older Heath Zenith flood lights, maybe 8-10 years old. I did all the reset options, including the one you sent from Home Depot, plus others. On the Home Depot website, one video even suggested cutting the breaker/power for an hour. No reset worked, they’re still on constantly. I even put masking tape over the sensors to see if zero motion allowed them to turn off, they did not turn off. Maybe cutting the power somehow caused the Heath Zenith sensors to fail?

Or, maybe it’s wiring? The wires in the old flood lights have black, white *and * red (hot), which I attached to the wyze black wire. Would that somehow cause a sensor disruption of the two Home Depot lights?

Tomorrow I’ll head to Home Depot and try replacing one of the two and test. If a brand new sensor doesn’t work maybe the Wyze connection is somehow disabling it.

You might hold off on replacing those. The Heath Zenith floods are supposed to reset in daylight when the PIR’s light sensor shuts it down for the day. If it is still on in daylight, then something is up. But it should shut off at daybreak and then return to Auto sensing at nightfall. One of my older ones is also on the same circuit as my Wyze Floodlight Pro and it reset without issues.

I doubt it is the wiring. Since it is on, it is getting power and that is only two wires required on mine. The third white is probably the neutral or what they used as ground during construction. If it were the wiring, I would think the light wouldn’t be coming on at all. The wiring diagram for the old floodlight model is going to be key. Mine are only 2 wire. I’m wondering if yours have seperate power for the PIR and that may have been what the third wire was. When you tested them, was the red the only one hot?

Another option to try is to slide the PIR to Test Mode and then back to Auto.

If you have the model number printed on the back of the PIR, all the Heath Zenith user manuals are online:


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Thanks again for your help.

It’s still staying on during daylight. I switched it off last night, should I leave it on all night tonight and see if it resets at daybreak?

I have the model number and manual SL-5312. Simple wiring with only black and white. When I removed the one I replaced with the Wyze, the red wire was connected to the black wire. (

If the red wire is for the switch and all three flood lights, should I cap it off at the Wyze connection? Or would that affect the switch?

Photo of original HZ wiring that I replaced with Wyze

The owners manual does show a simple 2 wire setup… But your photo indicates something else.

The Hot Red in is transferred to the black Hot on the fixture (#1) which leads into the PIR Sensor (switch). This then exits the PIR (#2) and is nutted to the Red Hot supply to each of the lights (#3) on the fixture. This exits the lights and leads the power to return on the White return line (#4).

However, the Black line (#5) is wired direct to power supply to the lights (#3). This indicates the lights are being powered on that line by an alternative manually switched source that will bypass the PIR. I believe your issue is with how the wiring was run to the old lights. If that black wire is in series with the other light, then a PIR event in one will turn on all of them.

My suspicion is that there is a manual single pole switch wired to that black line that, when switched on, turns the floodlights on full time.

What did you do with the black wire that was in the box when you connected the Wyze?

Ah got it - I’m getting closer. There IS a second light switch for the floodlights labeled “override for outside flood lights” that keeps them on constantly (that was turned off during all my test). Maybe this is the red wire?

I just tested the wiring of the Wyze flood light by removing the red wire and capping it: the HZ flood lights are working! However, the wyze flood light is not.

I haven’t opened a connected HZ to see how it is wired. When I removed the one I replaced the wyze with, I didn’t notice the multiple black connection you mentioned and labeled.

Should I wire with Wyze with just the red hot and cap the black?

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I wired the Wyze with just the red hot wire. Success! Wyze flood light is up and running,

I completely forgot about that 2nd switch. Thank you for spotting that in the pic I sent.

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Glad they are both up and running and you found the solution!

Since you have two switches, my suspicion is that the black wire is a hot override\bypass from the override switch that turns on only the old floodlights when on, not the PIR. It was the one nutted directly to the lights’ hot feed.

The red wire is the primary that will turn off functional power to all three and it is wired from the breaker thru the primary switch.

You just have to be careful and check power with a non-contact voltage tester when you service them. It is unclear if both switches are on the same breaker.

You found the solution there, but what was happening was you were feeding hot from the red wire into the bypass black wire at the Wyze and therefore passing that current onto the old lights powering them from the bypass thru the primary switch.

Thanks again for your help!

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