What is the best wifi router for 75 or more wireless devices

Hi, I have been using the wireless router on my cable modem that Comcast rents you. I like it, but now that I have over 50 devices hooked up to it, it will not take anymore. I can’t add additional devices and when I do, it will knock off one of my existing devices that is not powered on at the time.
I need to purchase a modem, but none of the modem manufacturers in their description on their site or on Amazon list how many wifi devices they can handle. Do any of you out there have a modem that has handled 75 or more devices all connected at once?

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Just a quick note. Whatever modem/router you purchase has to be registered with Comcast/Xfinity and also has to be compatible with Comcast. I have always used my own Motorola Cable modem.Do your homework before you buy to make sure it will work with Comcast :upside_down_face:


Thanks for that and I am aware of it, but I plan to continue using their modem. I will plug the new wifi router into the modem and use the wifi from the new router, (You can shut off the wifi comming from the comcast modem, or use both)

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Your best bet is to have multiple APs spread around your property, each with an ethernet connection back to your router. it works best to have 1 on each of the 3 main 2.4Ghz channels: 1, 6, and 11.

I personally use unifi access points, but anything that supports mimo on the 2.4Ghz band and can be set up as an access point only should work.

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If you don’t mind spending some semi-real money, look at the Miraki Go line. Or real money and go with “real” Miraki access points. They have some that will handle thousands of connections - likely WAY more than you need!

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Thanks, there are like 100 bucks so that’s great. They don’t give a lot of specs so I have posted some questions. Also, no free returns with Amazon, but If I get good answers from the, I will give it a shot.

My ISP is Charter. A year ago I gave them their crappy bargain basement router and modem back. The router I use is a Tenda AC23 and the modem is a Netgear CM600. I couldn’t be happier since the switch. Charter did need to know the MAC address of the modem, but other than that, the upgrade was seamless.
In addition to over 20 WYZE cameras on WiFi :roll_eyes:, I also have a rather large investment in Hubitat Elevation, which uses WiFi to communicate with the router, and each smart device is either Z-Wave or ZigBee which is independent of WiFi. Then we have our iPads and iPhones also using WiFi mostly from my wife’s iPad streaming Netflix.
The point I am making is Tenda and Netgear work. And there are a lot of WiFi addresses being used. This equipment can handle it.
Over in the Hubitat forums, users are complaining about similar things that are complained about here. Drilling down, most issues are not caused by Hubitat, but rather the crappy modem and router so graciously provided for free by the ISP.

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My primary ISP is Spectrum - the resulting merger of Charter and Time Warner. When I first got service from them about 32 months ago, at my request they provided a cable modem that is in bridge mode. I have my own Mikrotik router providing all router functions and four Meraki WiFi access points. At this time, there are 38 WiFi devices connected to the APs (including 17 Wyze cameras).

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Thanks all, I have around 55 devices and up until recently they all worked find, but it looks like I have met my maximum and I can’t add any more. I got a lot of bulbs and switches and my new waze thermometer I want to install. Right now it will not recognize a new install unless something else is offline and then the offline thing won’t work.
I am looking for people that have at least 75 devices hooked up to their modems.
thanks again

tp link archer ax11000, i have 60 plus devices with no issues


whatever you buy, make sure its a wifi 6 router

Thanks all, I purchased one that should do the trick. If it doesn’t, I will just split my devices between the comcast router and the new router. I wanted to just turn off the comcast router and name the new router the same as the comcast was, and use the same password as well so I did not have to reprogram everything. We will see how that works. Now that Christmas is over and my decorations are down, I have 5 more slots that opened up for additional wifi devices that turned on and off my lights and such.

Good morning @Jhon. You may want to edit the title of this thread based on your other details within this thread. You’re not actually looking for a new modem, you’re looking for a new access point.

I’m not sure how things work in your state when it comes to Comcast service. Here in MN, you can save a bundle by owning your own equipment instead of renting the junk hardware that Comcast provides. If you know anything about networking, I highly advise you do actually buy your own modem, hardware based firewall, and WiFi access points.

When you own your own equipment here in Minnesota, you no longer have to pay any taxes what so ever for your Internet service. However, as soon as you rent or lease a single piece of equipment from Comcast a whole bunch of taxes get added to your monthly bill. Again, it may be different in each state.

Also, you DO NOT want to plug another router into your existing router. You’ll end up with something that is called a double NATed network. (NAT = Network Address Translation) You can get a double NATed network to function properly when it comes to port forwarding, but it is a management nightmare and definitely not advised.

If you do want to keep your existing (Comcast junk) modem and router, look to buy a WiFi access point or as another mentioned, multiple WiFi access points. Also, be aware that you’re going to have to setup all of your devices again to “talk” with the new SSID. This holds true even if you use the exact same name for your wireless network.

Hi, thanks for the input, Your right I am actually looking for a wifi router and not a modem. I will see if I can change that. My wifi modem is included with my comcast package (No separate modem fee) and I have been real happy with it Up until I have exceed 60 wifi connections. It just won’t accept any more. My modem covers every corner of my 2100 SF home and the outside lanai and the garage. Other than the fact that I exceeded its wifi client capacity, I have really liked the modem/router they have given me. The new wifi router I ordered is supposed to handle many more connections. I plan to turn off the wifi in the comcast modem and only use the wifi in the new modem which should prevent the double NATed network you mention as there will only be one wireless network. The new modem is on the truck for delivery today, I will let you know how I make out when I get it set up. I also plan to just give the new wifi router the same name and password as I gave my comcast router and hope that most of my devices will get fooled into accepting it so I don’t have to make a bunch of changes on my apps and devices. I will look into the tax thing and see if that applies in florida and then do the math. But I do have a phone line I use for faxes and those cable modems are a lot more expensive than the ones without the phone.

Would you mind sharing the make/model of the item you purchased? If it’s a router, you’re going to end up double NATed by default (if you use the WAN port on the new router), even if you disable the WiFi antenna on your Comcast gear.

Also, trust me when I say you’ll end up having to setup all of your devices again (even if you use the same WiFi name).

That is not true.

But your point about the double NATting is true… Except that for the vast majority of people that is no problem at all. Few people care about port forwarding and most services work fine when double NATted as long as there is a route to the Internet.

Sure its a TP-Link WiFi 6 AX3000 Smart WiFi Router (Archer AX50) – 802.11ax Router, Gigabit Router, Dual Band, OFDMA, MU-MIMO. If it don’t work, back it goes to Amazon. Thanks for you input, it is coming today and if I have time, I will try it out and let you know.
Thanks for your input.

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It looks like I can enable bridge mode on my comcast router/modem to eliminate the double Natted issue. That will also turn off the comcast wifi.


When I bought a new AP and setup the same SSID as my previous SSID I had to setup all of my devices again. Actually I first had to “forget” the old SSID and then set them up again with the “new” (same) SSID. All security settings and passphrases were the same. With that said, this did not include any WYZE gear due to the fact that I didn’t own WYZE gear at the time. Maybe WYZE gear works differently than Windows, Android, and Amazon devices?

The only time it would/should break is if the SSIDs used a different password or different encryption protocol. And of course Wyze only connects on 2.4 GHz.