Based on your response, I’m not sure what you’ve actually tried, because I would’ve expected something in there to work for you according to my understanding of the wiring situation you have.
Let’s get the latest photo out of the way first: Of course you’re getting power to the camera, because what you’re showing here essentially is reversing the wiring connections (transformer black to doorbell white and transformer white to doorbell black) to supply power directly to the doorbell without going through the chime. The red wire you have connected to the FRONT terminal on the chime is irrelevant, because the chime itself isn’t receiving any power at all with this configuration. If you disconnect the Chime Controller entirely in this scenario, then I would expect that you’d still get power to the doorbell (but that defeats one of the purposes of the Chime Controller, anyway, which isn’t doing you any good at all the way you have it wired currently).
I don’t see the contradiction, but I’ll try to be clear in this post with a single set of instructions that I’d like for you to try. Here is what I think I’m seeing based on the available information so far:
- You have two different 2-conductor wires (1 black and 1 white in each wire pair) coming into the chime box:
- 1 pair is from the transformer.
- 1 pair is from the doorbell. (You didn’t correct me when I stated this in a previous post, so I’m assuming at this point that it’s true.)
- The black conductor in the pair from the transformer is connected at the transformer end to the “hot” (R) terminal of your transformer, and the white conductor in the pair from the transformer is connected to the “common” (C) terminal of your transformer. (I’m assuming here that your transformer was installed/wired correctly.)
- We don’t know which pair of wires coming into the chime box come from the transformer and which come from the doorbell, but you could test this if you had a working multimeter.
- The chime worked before the Video Doorbell v2 installation began and presumably still works.
Since you don’t have a working multimeter, we can do some trial and error. What I believe you need to do is connect the two common (white) wires together to complete that side of the circuit loop (from the doorbell back to the transformer, bypassing the chime box completely) and never touch them again, because I think that’s adding to your confusion here, and then reconnect the line/load (black) wires to the chime—along with the Chime Controller—so that the Video Doorbell v2 will get power and the chime will function with a doorbell button press.
Please try this and let me know what happens:
Plan A: Standard Wiring
- Turn off the doorbell power.
- Disconnect all of your wires in the chime box.
- Twist the ends of the two white wires together with a wire nut and move these out of the way forever.
- Twist one of the black house wires and the black wire from the Chime Controller together with a wire nut.
- Attach the other black house wire and the red wire from the Chime Controller to the TRANS terminal.
- Attach the white wire from the Chime Controller to the FRONT terminal.
- Restore power and test.
If Plan A doesn't work, then try this:
Plan B: Swapping the Black House Wires[1]
- Turn off the doorbell power.
- Remove the wire nut from the black wires (one house wire and the black Chime Controller wire).
- Remove the house black wire from the TRANS terminal and connect this to the black Chime Controller wire with a wire nut.
- Attach the remaining black house wire to the TRANS terminal (where the red Chime Controller wire should still be attached).
- Restore power and test.
If Plan B doesn't work, then try this:
Plan C: Wyze’s Alternate Wiring Method
- Turn off the doorbell power.
- Remove the white Chime Controller wire from the FRONT terminal and don’t connect it to anything.
- Remove the red Chime Controller wire from the TRANS terminal and connect it to the FRONT (or REAR) terminal.[2]
- Restore power and test.
If Plan C doesn't work, then try this:
Plan D: Wyze’s Alternate Wiring Method Plus Swapping the Black House Wires Back Again
- Turn off the doorbell power.
- Remove the wire nut from the black wires (one house wire and the black Chime Controller wire).
- Remove the house black wire from the TRANS terminal and connect this to the black Chime Controller wire with a wire nut.
- Attach the remaining black house wire to the TRANS terminal.
- Restore power and test.
If you want to consult an electrician after that, then I’m on board with that. If you’d rather not deal with it at all and just say “
it!” at this point and make the call, then I understand. I’m stubborn enough that I’d like to solve a problem myself, and I think one of the plans above is likely to work for you.
Good luck! I really believe you can do this!
Edit: Once again, I had additional thoughts. 
First of all, I’m a visual person, and I think this might help you understand what I’m trying to get you to do with my Plan A and Plan B instructions above:
I modified one of the images from the Chime Controller Installation Guide to create the diagram above. I tend to be a visual person, so hopefully you (and perhaps others who might read this at some point) will find this helpful.
I’m still not seeing the contradiction (and I’m not sure which you’re calling the “last paragraph” and “first paragraph”). Since you describe yourself as a former teacher, I hope you can appreciate why I’d like for you to explicitly illustrate whatever contradiction you believe exists, because I’d genuinely like to learn if I’ve made a mistake in some way. I think we grow by learning from our mistakes, and that helps us to improve in the future. I’d like to get better if I can.
How did you determine this? I don’t believe this is true. Based on the information you’ve provided (including the helpful photos), I believe that you could remove the Chime Controller completely from your installation, twist the two white house wires together, twist the two black house wires together, and have power for your doorbell camera. In that case, you would just be supplying power directly from the transformer to the doorbell, completely bypassing the chime and Chime Controller.
I strongly feel that you’re correct about that! 
If you do that, would you mind providing an update here? I’d like to learn what an electrician might do, especially if I’m wrong in my thinking here, because I’d like to be able to provide better assistance to others going forward.
You’re welcome! I should thank you, too, because thinking about this problem has made me develop a better concept about my own doorbell’s wiring and given me an idea for something I intend to test this week. 
because we don’t know which is from the transformer ↩︎
I believe Wyze’s instructions give this option just for flexibility. A lot of chime boxes that have the three terminals (FRONT, TRANS, and REAR) are actually designed to support two doorbells (front and back door) with distinctive chime tones. The front doorbell might give a nice ding-dong! while the back might give only a ding! or vice versa. ↩︎