Bought a Wyze refurb V2 doorbell camera. Took me awhile to figure out a four wire setup that works but last night I got it all working (hardest part was getting the interior chime working).
Today my wife said the chime went off periodically for no reason, it was very soft, not a standard chime. At dinner I heard it, a soft chime from the interior chime, nobody outside. I went to press the doorbell button and nothing happened, no ring and the light had gone from blue to flashing orange. Said I’ll look at it after dinner.
After dinner I looked and the light is back to steady blue and the doorbell hasn’t acted up? Any ideas? I will Check my connectors again tomorrow.
Feel free to snap photos (of your transformer, chime, and/or anything related to your wiring that you think might be relevant) and share those. Clear and complete photos can often be helpful.
My first thought about the behavior you’re describing is of the “phantom rings” some users have described when installing Duo Cam Doorbell as a wired video doorbell but without Chime Controller. I haven’t experienced that specific phenomenon with Video Doorbell v2, but while troubleshooting my Video Doorbell v2 at one point Wyze Support advised me to install Chime Controller using the alternate wiring instructions, and after I did that I had an unwanted buzzing/humming sound which Support said is normal when that wiring scheme is used.[1] I’ve also experienced phantom rings from my mechanical chime with a wired Battery Video Doorbell installed without Chime Controller.
I say all that to say that your solution may be ensuring that Chime Controller is properly installed and that all your other doorbell wiring is correct, but having the answers to some questions could be helpful in determining if that’s the root of the problem.
Crease, thank you greatly for your response..not sure why I didn’t get notified that someone responded. Since I posted that message, the camera has been going on and offline and flashes orange, so I am trying different wiring options. Here’s my answers:
-I was using a NEST camera and it worked fine but it didn’t ring the interior chime either
-The chime is a Heath Zenith WD-1 Base
-I can’t find the transformer, I’m not sure where to look for it, lol. It’s measuring 11.9V at the wire to the chime and at the back of the V2
-I’m pretty sure I had is set to mechanical chime but I can’t get to the setting right now as the camera is off-line. Here’s some pics.
I just went back through the setup process and have the camera back online and working. Still no chime…this is the current wiring. The chime in the app is set for mechanical.
I don’t have any hands-on experience with those, and I’m not sure what they require in terms of power or what their capabilities are, but that’s good to know that the camera was working before.
If you’re unsure of whether or not the chime works at all, then that should be an easy test. With power on at the transformer (breaker on) and the correct red wire attached to the chime’s TRANS terminal, you could briefly touch the white wire from the same jacket to the chime’s FRONT terminal. That would also be one way to determine which jacketed pair is coming from the transformer and which is coming from the doorbell button location, and it’s important to be certain of which is which because of the way Chime Controller works. (Ask me how I know. )
I don’t know anything about that particular model, but the photos are very helpful! That seems like a pretty typical mechanical chime.
It could be almost anywhere, including in the wall directly behind the chime. Other common places would typically be adjacent to your main circuit breaker panel, in a mechanical/storage room (where mine is, near the furnace), or in a closet, perhaps near the front door. I’ve seen some Forum users report that their transformers are in their attics.
That seems low, and that may be the main problem and why you’re seeing the status light behavior that you’re reporting. Video Doorbell v2 wants to see 16-24 V AC. As a point of comparison, my transformer is rated 16 V, 10 VA, and I have consistently seen in excess of 18 V AC when measuring with a digital multimeter at both the transformer and the doorbell button’s wiring location.
If you’re able, I’d be inclined to track that down and figure out what its rating and measured voltage at the transformer are. I wouldn’t expect the measurement at the transformer itself to differ significantly between the transformer’s terminals and the button location’s wires, but if you see something like that then I’d wonder about an issue in the wiring.
The first one just looks like you’re bypassing the chime because of the way you have the home’s white wires nutted together and the home’s red wires nutted together.
The second one shows the wiring diagram that’s typical for this type of mechanical chime. Mine shows something similar. It also shows that it expects to see a transformer that’s “16V 10VA” connected in its circuit. That’s what I’d want to find to check its rating and test.
The third one looks like what I would expect to see for a properly-wired Chime Controller, and I would expect that to work if at least two other conditions are being met:
Your transformer power is adequate.
You’re absolutely certain that the red house wire attached to TRANS is coming from the transformer wiring jacket.
Thank you again for the photos!
Regarding point 3.2, if that red wire connected to the chime’s TRANS terminal is coming from the doorbell button wiring jacket, then I think you’re apt to have the same chime issues I used to have before I figured out that my mechanical chime was wired incorrectly prior to my moving into this house. Once I figured that out and got the correct wire connected to TRANS, that resolved my problem, and I’ve had consistently good doorbell performance since then.
That should be correct for what you’re showing here. You could try setting Doorbell Chime Type in the app to Digital as advised in a Help Center troubleshooting article, but I wouldn’t expect that to resolve your issue.
If you know that the wiring is correct, then you could also try the alternate wiring scheme for Chime Controller, but that wouldn’t be my first choice because of the noises that I experienced when I tried that (as I noted in my previous post). I’d be more interested in finding the transformer to determine its rating and measured voltage and to confirm that one of the wires from that is actually connected to your chime’s TRANS terminal. Given the information you’ve shared so far, I suspect that you might want a transformer replacement if everything else is wired correctly so far. That’s what I imagine a subsequent step might be, but I’d really want to confirm information about the transformer and wiring first.
I hope this is helpful. I don’t know what your experience is with these kinds of things, so I don’t know what your comfort level is with any of this, and I’m by no means an expert, but I enjoy trying to help and answer questions about these when I can.
You’re welcome. I hope that this is helpful and that locating the transformer isn’t too much of a hassle. I’m interested in learning what you find.
I am not an electrician. 
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