I have a Wyze switch connected to a Wyze color bulb. Has anyone noticed that if the switch loses connection to the internet, instead of just falling back to being a dumb switch it doesn’t function at all. This seems like a major product issue to me. It’s tough to explain to my wife that a light switch doesn’t work because the internet is out. I had to physically unscrew my daughters light as it was stuck on (see attached).
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Is your Switch configured with Single Press set to Smart Control or Classic Control?
It’s set to smart control for wyze bulbs. Even with that it seems like the ‘smart’ thing to do would be to revert to a dumb switch if the switch loses its connection.
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If you configure single press to Classic Control, a single press on the switch will operate your light like a standard on/off switch during AWS, WiFi or Internet outages. Your smart features like rules could be tied to double, triple or long press and these actions will require AWS, WiFi and Internet.
No local control for smart devices of any kind and a wall switch that won’t turn off. Doesn’t that seem kind of… dangerous?
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So you’re basically saying smart control is unusable as I obviously can’t switch to classic control when the internet is out. I agree with other poster that this is potentially dangerous and a major bug. If the switch can’t get internet, even if I’m smart mode, it should automatically evert to classic mode and become a ‘dumb’ switch.
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Another issue you need to consider is your bulbs. If they are Wyze bulbs you’ll need to consider the state of the bulbs if there is a power outage when power returns: on or last state. If you use classic control you are essentially turning of power to the bulbs. When you turn the switch off none of your rules will work with bulbs anyway since they don’t have power.
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They are Wyze color bulbs. The issue is not power loss, it is internet loss.
Understood, but if you want to use the switch as a “DUMB” one, it then becomes a power issue as well. As I said in my original post, using the switch in classic mode turns off the power to the bulbs creating a different set of issues.
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I want the switch to be smart when it has internet and dumb when it loses internet. I shouldn’t have to reset that mode. In fact when internet is lost I obviously can’t turn it into a dumb switch as config requires internet.
You don’t have to “reset a mode” when you lose Internet. Set your single-press to Classic Mode now so it works as a dumb switch with no Internet. Leave double, triple and long-press in Smart Mode for automation when you do have Internet. Note WildBill’s reply above… need to consider Power Loss Recovery setting if you have a smart bulb connected to switch.
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I didn’t realize that you can have different modes for single vs double. That may work but I’m then a bit disappointed that the single click can’t be in smart mode. I can’t see anyone in my house learning anything other than click on switch, light turns on. If I turn single click to dumb mode my understanding is I can’t turn the light on with the switch off via Alexa.
I am using Classic control, so my single press works as a ‘non smart’ switch, this means when internet is out I can still use the single press. When I have internet the single press will turn on and off via Alexa if I want.
A Roberts has described the issue perfectly here. Any update on if this is still the case?
If your single press functionality is set to “smart control” instead of “classic control” then your single press will simply do nothing without internet. Meaning, you won’t be able to control the lights at all.
I’m wanting to use a Wyze switch and bulbs in my bathroom using “smart control” in order to leave power to the bulbs to run a rule/automation for motion sensor triggered dim night lights. There’s a problem with either setting: Classic Control would cut power to the bulbs, but Smart Control wild leave my lights unable to turn on whatsoever without internet.
Scroberts is wise (no pun) to suggest the switch revert to classic control without internet, so users could still control their lights.
Any insight on this Wyze? Not sure how the switch is constructed and programmed; is it even possible?
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Any update from Wyze yet?
No need to restate the issue. It has already been explained well. This is a pretty big deal. It happened recently in my house with an Internet outage.