Can only get DSL at our cabin which is limited to 750kb upload (and I seldom even get that). I think this explains why I can’t livestream the cams from another network.
Both Viasat and Starlink Satellite Internet is available in my region, and seems to have adequate speeds.
Anyone any experience if running wyze Outdoor cams on through a Satellite provider
Should be no problem. I recall some other people have reported using Starlink.
Latency would be far greater on ViaSat than Starlink because it is using Geostationary satellites.
Me. I have Spectrum and Starlink. Starlink is my backup. Spectrum of course depends on electrical power. Our power goes out, then so does Spectrum. My house has Powerwalls to power the house, and I bring up Starlink as my WiFi net. Works fine. Starlink is not as fast as my Spectrum, so, when Spectrum is back up, I move back. But my method is painless. Starlink would be a LOT faster than your DSL is.
Why does it depend on Electrical power? Isn’t it just a Cable company? The internet itself should come through coaxial cables separately from the power, right? At least that’s how every other Cable company internet works. 
BTW, I believe there are routers that will let you use BOTH ISP’s at the same time to have better bandwidth and seamless automatic transition when needed without any manual intervention. I know people who do this with Unifi.
I know that both @IEatBeans and @cyberdog_17 use Starlink just fine with their Wyze devices, as well as others.
The actual data may come through coax cables to your house, but there are many many routers, switches, boosters, etc along the line that require power. Depending on how large the outage is these may be affected as well. I would imagine many are on back up power generators/batteries, but some may not be or they may run out etc.
Yep, I use many Wyze products including the Wyze cam outdoor on Starlink without issues
Yep, can confirm that Wyze works perfectly fine over a Starlink connection. Been using it for a few years now without any issues.
Yes I have a ASUS XT router mesh system. Its has the fallback alternate ISP feature. I just didn’t want to complicate things for this explanation by mentioning how simple it is to let it do that. The emphasis for this post was on wondering it Wyze works with sat service.
Same here. My spectrum cable goes out the instant that there is a power outage anywhere in the area. Fortunately the cable is my backup. Fiber is the primary and it stays up in a power outage. (at least so far).
Hi, a newbie here and not terribly tech saavy. We now have Starlink and are rural. It did not come with a router and we ordered an adapter with a port to run to my work computer from the one device that Starlink uses (a receiver). My outdoor Wyze cams need physical connectivity to a router to connect to our WiFi. Can someone explain in simple terms what our options are? The newish router we had purchased before hand is not working / or not compatible with starlink it appears… Is there a workaround without buying another expensive router with 4 or so ports? Help. (Thx a bunch in advance).
Actually, they can connect wirelessly over WiFi, even the base station can connect over WiFi. Just set it up using the port you already have, then switch it back to WiFi:
Another option is to just get a cheap switch like this for around $20:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PFYM5MZ
Then you can use the same adapter you already got but have space to connect up another 7 devices using that same adapter. You would just plug one cord into the adapter, and then plug it into any of the slots on this switch, and now you turned 1 adapter port into having up to 7 open ports.
This is not the best source for learning about Starlink. Bluntly, you didn’t explain enough. You didn’t say things like where you got your Starlink. That’s important; because if you bought it off ebay or someplace you didn’t get it new, it might explain it doesn’t have a router. Because a new Starlink does come with a router. Read the instructions again.
There’s three versions of Starlink now.
Gen 1 is a round dish, and you couple plug a wired Ethernet cable into the adapter that came with the router.
Gen 2 is a rectangular dish about 20" long with a shaft sticking out of the back to mount the dish. It comes with a WiFi router but no Ethernet port. You can order an Ethernet adapter that connects the cable to the adapter, and the adapter to the router, to get the Ethernet connection.
Gen 3 is a longer rectangular dish, (about 24") and a newer version router and has an Ethernet port.
With all three, and using an Ethernet port, you can connect a newer higher performance WiFi router. Gen 1 and Gen 2 are WiFi 5. Gen 3 is WiFi 6. But now, fastest is WiFi 6e and WiFi 7.
You can expand your Starlink knowledge by going over to YouTube and searching for your model of Starlink and let people tell you about their experiences.
I didn’t know we had an option to buy other than a new system direct from SL. It’s direct. Purchased in Jan 2020. Received in Jan 2021. It does not come with a router but a receiver only. It’s Gen 2.
I call it a receiver as most of the ppl on the SL forum refer to it as such.
As stated in my first post, there is no port and I did order the adapter to hard-wire my work computer. The adapter is a ONE port device.
It’s IN USE. Sure thought I covered all the pertinent concerns in the previous post.
I did get some useful direction from a couple of ppl so I should be good now. I just haven’t tried it yet.
You could have bought a used one from many sources. They have been offered on eBay many times. Probably some there. I suggested that because they do come with a router. I have Gen 2. Mine came with a router and it does not have an Ethernet port. But I bought the Ethernet Adapter from SL and it arrived in a few days. Since then, I have added another router using that adapter, to give me a connection to a Mesh system. Since the adapter provides a connection via the Gen 2 router, you can also add a switch and connect more Ethernet connections to it - if you wish.
I followed instructions on several Off Grid RV folks, and removed my Gen 2 router from the path. I cut the end off the adapter, and made a special Ethernet cable that connected the adapter to a POE adapter powered by a 52 volt power supply to feed power to Dishy and also used its Ethernet connection into the Google Pro Mesh WiFi system which was better WiFi coverage than the Gen 2 router. Now, I don’t have the Gen 2 router generating the heat simply to give me the down/up link to Dishy. So, I do know Gen 2 comes with a WiFi 5 router. Else what good is the Dish?
That’s interesting, I didn’t know you could use it without the router attached. I put mine in bypass mode or whatever, but thought it was needed for to decode some proprietary communication with the dish. That’s cool that it’s just Ethernet with a weird connector. I wish they would offer a POE adapter for it.
Its a bit confusing. I went through all this last summer, so its not fresh in my head. There’s a number of blogs that can get you to a target setup. I suspect you want simple. There’s a long hand version that people pioneered first, and helped each other. This is the main blog I used. If you really really want to crawl before you walk, scroll down to the forum-like section at start at the beginning. Its a painful read as a lot of failings. Or, go to the bottom and work backwards to sections where people got it working.
In the main section, the author describes pin-outs for special ethernet cables and devices. He had some conflicting pictures that he finally updated to make everything be in sync with what he was saying. I don’t want to post those diagrams here, so I will refer you to his write-up.
Here’s the hardware I used to rid my setup of the SL router.
Tycon Systems POE-INJ-1000-WT High PoE 4 Pair Injector
48V 3A Power Supply | AC to DC 48V 144W Power Adapter
It took me several tries to get a 3A P.S. that would power the Tycon converter. The right amperage and wattage is important. I recommend these.
You still need the blog to figure out how to make the Special Pinout Ethernet Cables, because they must cross over the signal.
I said there was a long hand version and there’s also a short hand version.
Someone took the hard work everyone did and made it easy.
They had two devices made in China that you can now get on Amazon and shortcut all this work.
YAOSHENG 150W GigE Passive PoE Injector
YAOSHENG Rectangular Dishy Cable Adapter to RJ45
My setup was already working, but “looked” clumsy, so I ordered and received the Cable Adapter, and swapped it out to test it on mine. There was a few people that didn’t believe it would work, so for $38, I decided to test it. It worked fine. Easier than making your own.
I did not get the YAOSHENG PoE Injector, since I was already using the Tycon and power supply. But I have heard it works. So, for less than $125 you can get nearly all the hardware you need.
And recently, I found this Dishy V2 original plug (SPX) to RJ45 (T568B) adapter FIT For Internet Kit V2 POE
I don’t know yet if I will integrate it into my setup. I have not received it yet, but for $8, I could not pass it up. (Of course you know the SPX reference is the nickname everyone seems to be using for the goofy Starlink connector on the cable.) And by the way, Gen 3 doesn’t use this odd connector.
Consider this. Most people that morphed their system to get rid of the router, wanted to reduce the hardware (heat). The Starlink router puts out a lot of heat, and therefore is power hungry. AND many that started this, were mounting it in a 12V powered vehicle, RV, camper or such. So, they needed to boost their power from 12V (vehicle) to 48V (Dishy). That’s why you see people going 12V to 48V, but I was going 120V to 48V. Some people used a 12V-48V buck converter up, not 120V-48V down.
You should know, when you remove the Starlink router from you feed, you lose some of the functionality in the Starlink app. No longer check signal strength, (speed, yes, strengthen, no.). Can’t do that "walk around checking your perimeter. You don’t see it come on-line, until it comes online. The app doesn’t know what to do, how to react to a non-Starlink router, so can’t tell you what it could with the Starlink router. But its still useful (needed). Remember - think of the things the app gets from Dishy, vice what it would get from the router, and it makes more sense.
Too much info?
Thanks for all the information, that’s very interesting!
Very welcome. Enjoyed refreshing my own “recollection” of events. The rapid evolution of these devices is interesting.
We went from a big round dish also known as a cat warmer. Because one sitting where the cats can get to it, will climb up and sunbath in its warm.
Gen 1 and Gen 2 have a motor in them. So, they can rotate and tilt to find sats. Now along comes Gen 3, and its flatter on its dish underside. Its got a removable stand too. The Gen 3 has no motor so you just give it a foot kick to align it perfectly. I heard that they opted out of the motor because the community wanted a flat back to give them more flexibility with where they put it. But they Starlink could not do that if there were not enough sats in the sky that Dishy didn’t need to chase them. So, that’s progress.
And I heard that someone at Starlink posted on X, that soon they (like 2024) they would release one that was small enough (large iPad-size) that you couple carry it in a backpack. No clue yet on how to power it.
Wouldn’t that be hoot? Backpack size, but you need to put a Honda i2000 small generator in your little-red-wagon to bring it camping. (That last sentence was intended for those of us old enough to know what a real little-red-wagon is. Ahh, those were the day of Red Ryder.)