I actually used one very similar to this at my first outdoor conversion attempt. I found that the battery of these large mAh units was more than enough to power the cam. However, for those of us who utilize them overnight, the IR LEDs seem to overwhelm these solar batteries when used as the sole power source. Re-charge rate (even in sunny south Georgia) was much less & slower by solar than the cam consumed overnight. Unit was dead within 72hrs for me which forced me to do some power cabling + insert a TalentCell power pack for outages/line conditioning.
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This device will use your PoE Ethernet and give you 5v usb to power your cams. Itās what I will be using to replace my shady Zosi cams.
PoE Texas GAF-USB | 802.3af PoE Splitter Compatible with iPads and Tablets with 5 Volt 10 Watt Output - Includes USB-A and Micro-USB adapters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BLMWY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5dktEbZVNEXQT
In mine case I would solder a mirco usb to the wire.
https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a15061700ux0139-10PCS-Connector-Plastic/dp/B014GMP4E4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=micro+usb+male+solder&qid=1582322342&sr=8-3
I imagine Iāll get a larger Ethernet switch and go POE. But the 3 cctv cams that are existing Iāll go with a 12v to 5v down converter. Something like this. And dump the old system all together. I just hope that Wyze is developing a way to see more than 4 cams on a page as most outdoor users want to see 8 min.
HOMREE DC 8-35V to DC 5V Step-Down Converter Buck Module 12V/24V to 5V 3A 15W USB Output Power Supply Charger (Type c USB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZQB6S3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ktluEbWD0Z8A5
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Hi there. I use this device as a backup power for my external camera. When there is voltage, it charges itself and feeds the camera. When the voltage goes away, it feeds the camera with its batteries.
For my Pan Cam - F2 (Discontinued)
For my V2 Cam - F1 (Discontinued)
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Why were you not paying attention when I shoved my Dremel out of the way before I sliced my finger with the exacto knife :-(.
Perhaps I should have mentioned abraiding the USB terminal against a sandpaper-like surface such as a sidewalk. Still a possibility of hurting fingers. Whatever method is used caution and care should accompany your work. I hope you didnāt injure yourself badly. The picture is my left (dominant) hand. It turned out to be a blessing disguise.
Iāve got two cameras up using the method that I described above. And Iāll be adding the third when the wind dies down. Iām not fighting 40 mile an hour winds.
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I bought two of these light bulb socket adaptors and a couple of outdoor mounts. Since I was mounting g the cameras near lights outside it worked perfect.
For powering via outdoor light fixtures and solving the need to be āalways onā, can use this switch with some smart bulbs. Then you can still control your lights from the switch like always and gain the smart bulb function. The camera should have power no matter what if you use with the socket outlet adapters.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Aurora-Dimmer-Philips-Z3-1BRL-WH-L0/dp/B07RJ14FBS/ref=sr_1_32_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=smart+switch+cover&qid=1587478053&s=hi&sr=1-32-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFTU1dPVlI5MlpSOEImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4NjUwOTUyMFpCT1YwOEVPRTYyJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MjMwMDBLSE5PS0lSWkYxNjgmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
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This is a really old post but I just picked up the cameras and ran them through a USB voltage analyzer.
The Wyze Pan Cam uses around 240mAh in full pan mode during the day and peaks around 400mAh at night-time with the LEDs on. They are quite power-hungry.
Iām unfortunately having to build custom battery packs for two and will be loading them with around 60,000mAh per pack to get through 5 days.
Hi, itās a really old post, but Iād like to suggest a different approach.
I have a 5V UPS inside my house:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W8MCBMS
(In fact, now I changed it for a 12V UPS and a voltage converterā¦ but letās keep it simple 
I run a twin 0.75mm2 cable (something between AWG 19 and 18). It was very easy, as the cable has no big connectors attached, so I can put it through ducts and small holes in the wall.
Then, I connected:
(Inside the house) āStandardā Male plug - Cable - (cable goes outdoors) - āStandardā Female Plug (Outside the house, but in a place protected from the rain)
And soldered these āShort Cable Adaptersā:
USB Male plug - Short Cable - Standard Female Plug
Standard Male plug - Short Cable - USB Female Plug
The full setup then is:
(Indoors)
UPS or Power Adapter - [ USB Male Plug - Short Cable - Standard Female Plug ] - [ Standard Male Plug - 0.75mm2 twin cable - (cable goes outdoors) - Standard Female Plug ] - [ Standard Male Plug - Short Cable - USB Female Plug ] - (connect cameraās cable here, instead of connecting it to the supplied power adapter)
Thus:
- The UPS (or power adapter) is safe inside my house
- I only have 5V outside the house (safe in case of short circuit due to rain, for example)
- I use a cheap and thick (with low resistance) cable, as long as needed, instead of an expensive, thin (with more resistance) cable, that only cames on certain lenghts
- The twin cable is easier to put inside ducts and holes in the wall
And if for some reason I want/need to put the power adapter near the camera, I simply discard the 2 āShort Cable adaptersā and connect it in this other way:
(Wall outlet) - [ Standard Male Plug - 0.75mm2 twin cable - (cable goes outdoors) - Standard Female Plug ] - (Power Adapter, USB cable, camera).
It looks WAY more complex that it really is
I used these USB plugs (good connectors, but they sent me wrong plastic covers):
If you donāt want to solder, those are good:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SGQ44F5
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You guys talking about clever devices to power the cams, look at this.
Gives you the means to turn power on/off without instead of the camera.
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Great Idea. Could also add a dawn-to-dusk sensor adapter, that way the light can turn on at nightā¦
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Iāve tried to go through ( most of ) this thread; we are starting to TNR ( Trap/Neuter/Release ) cats and have found the Wyze cameras ( V3) to be essential in doing research and watching cat activity to try and determine the best time and places to put the traps ( or watching a live view to pull the string if we are using the drop trap ).
I was having great luck running the cameras off of a fairly decent USB Battery pack that outputs ( it claims ) up to 5W/3A over the USB port that Iām using, And it did work for a while ( months ) , But then in relatively quick succession two of the cameras ( including one fairly new one ) stopped working entirely.
Wyze was great ( as always ) to replace them under warranty, but now Iām concerned about using a battery again. Any guesses on if this was a fluke or if anyone else has had similar issues? I made sure everything was waterproof when I had them outside ( often overnight ) and the battery still works fine ( and charges things like phones rapidly ). Maybe donāt use the IR lights or some other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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I found out that USB battery packs are not a good fit for the Wyze camera. I had a 50W solar panel connected to two 16000 mAH banks. Even though the vendor said they were pass through they didnāt really do the intended job. If you donāt mind changing out the pack ever two-three days, it will work.
I moved to an actual sealed battery and havenāt had an issue since.
ML8-12 - 12 Volt 8 AH SLA Batteryā¦ Amazon.com
and
Renogy Wanderer 10 Amp 12V/24Vā¦ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NPDWZJ7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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Unfortunately very few USB battery banks will operate the way we need them to for this purpose. I have one, but the manufacturer no longer makes them that way.
Good idea, I think. But did you use it at 12V or wind it down to 5V. Wouldnāt 12V cook a Wyze camera? Cheap as they are, I can bring myself to try one just to find out.
The solar controller has usb outputs that are 5V 2A.
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ahhhhhhhhhhhh. thanks