How to Power source Wyze Cameras outside the house (newbee alert)

Thanks, For me, I’m not looking to recharge the battery pack or have it work for long periods of time; I just want to be able to set it up, have it run overnight and then bring in the camera and battery to see what it got. But so far it doesn’t seem like there should be any issue with using it like that. I’m going to get one of the USB power analyzers too just to see if that gives me more information. Thanks…

A power bank from RavPower, at least 16,500 mAH would work just perfect for you.

I don’t want to be annoying, but you are trying to use a Power Bank as a UPS, and then you find that Power Banks are not good as UPS. Why don’t you use a UPS as a UPS? UPS work like a charm as UPS… :slightly_smiling_face:

This one has 10.000 mAh, can be charged by 5V (Wyze power adapter, for example) or 12V (solar panel or included power adapter), and has a 5V USB output (among others):

This one has 27.000 mAh, can be charged by 12V (you must use the included battery charger) and has two 5V USB outputs (among others):

This one has 12.000 mAh, can be charged by 12V and has a 12V output (you must use a regulator to power a Wyze cam):

Example of voltage regulator (requieres soldering):

Those are only examples, there are more devices similar to them. I own all 3 of them (and the voltage regulator), I use the first and the third to power Wyze cams, and the second to power my router and ONT.

The person I was replying to won’t have any device to charge the UPS. So a USB Powerbank is his best option.

How long should a 10,000 mAh pack connected to the original Wyze camera?

Are there any camera settings that would impact the battery duration?

Thank you

If just on the 10,000 mAh pack, depending on camera settings, I say two days max. The settings that would impact would motion sensing, cloud uploading, loss Wi-Fi signal that would cause the camera to search for signal, IR lights, and SD recording, is it continuous or just when it senses motion? Some have tried to do the math and find the answer that way, but it seems the numbers I have seen are always higher than real-world experience.

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Thank you!

I’m trying to discover what type of animal is our lettuce thief. At the moment I have motion detection, IR setup for the night and HD. Any chance I will get 24 hrs or should I shut these features off?

Here’s my fancy temporary setup :slight_smile: a battery pack and a camera in a jar.


If you see my last post, I powered two Wyze V2 with the 10.000 mAh UPS. Both cameras were outdoors, without CamPlus, with motion detection, one of them with the last firmware and the other one with the last firmware with person detection. They don’t have SD cards installed. Being outdoors in the windy place where I live, they were most of the time uploading 12 seconds videos every 5 minutes. IR lights and night vision were On, but my test was part in the day and part in the night.
The UPS lasted for about 10 hs, so I suppose with only one V2 camera, it would have lasted for about 20 hs.
Take into account that battery quality and healt may affect your time, as well as your “environment” (ie, if there’s continual movement that is constantly triggering motion detection, or not).
Regarding “mathematical estimations”, take into account that Li-ion batteries are 3.7V and the USB output is 5V, so power banks have a voltage converter that has not 100% efficiency. Also, you can’t extract up to the last mAh from the batteries. So if you measure the power comsuption of the camera and divide (Power bank mAh) / (camera comsuption), you are assuming a 100% efficiency and the utilization of the full battery capacity, and getting a value higher than the real.

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Thank you, sorry I missed your earlier post.

I appreciate the additional information. It sounds like I may have enough time to alternate with a 20,000 mAh battery over the next couple days. I’m hoping we catch a glimpse of the culprit in that time.

It worked great, and I found that a groundhog finally got into the garden. The 10,000mAh pack had about 25% remaining at 24hrs. I swapped it out for the 20,000 pack after I fixed the fence. Hopefully tomorrow I won’t see any “critters” in the garden.

Thanks for the help


I’ve used a 20,000 mAh pack with my v2 to make a time-lapse of the demolition of my old fraternity house.

Camera had no WiFi available so I’m sure it burned up a lot of juice just ranging for signal.

Cam had the old but all it was doing was taking snapshots which the app strung together.

I had to go out every evening to change the battery but there was usually margin if I had to do it the next morning.

I built a bird house and put the cam and battery in that and mounted it all on a tree nearby. Pretty sure someone would have taken it otherwise. Happy with the results of a bittersweet project.

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Has anyone tried using a 12V to USB power adapter.
I will be setting up several cameras in a remote garage with no power.
I am planning two 100W solar panels and a charge controller to a Group 27 deep cycle AGM battery (92AH).
I figured I would distribute 12V to the camera locations and use something like this to power the cameras. MOTOPOWER MP0609C 3.1Amp Waterproof Motorcycle Dual USB Charger Kit SAE to USB Adapter Cable Phone Tablet GPS Charger
I am looking at 4 to 6 cameras and a Cellular WiFi hotspot.

27 12 volt batteries? You will need more than two 100W solar panels for that. That is the issue I see with most solar installs, users are buying too small of panels and wonder why their batteries won’t stay charged.

Group 27 is a battery size.
It will be one battery unless I find I need more reserve power.
If I need more than 95AH, I probably need a third panel.

Yes I utilize a 12 volt feed to all my cameras that have a 12v to 5v Micro USB adapter.

I have made posts about this too, link–> Battery Backed-Up 14 V3 cams and Internet Communications

I have 2 cameras on my driveway that are on solar, I have a 100Ah battery on that with 2 100 Watt panels, works great 9 months of the year with excess power available. Then in Winter from late November to late February some days I run out of power and solar controller shuts down until the battery is charged enough. I live in a forest with trees 80-120 feet tall and in the winter I get very little direct sunlight maybe 3-4 hours at the most if not cloudy.

For calculating your current consumption a V3 will draw 0.5 Amps (500 ma) while viewing video with I.R. LEDS and siren on, turn on spotlight and it goes up 100 ma to 0.6 Amps. So worse case draw on a V3 is 0.6 Amps per hour.

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Looks like I will be needing more battery and panels.
Guessing I will have to keep peeking at the cameras to a minimum, since it is just for security.

How many cameras are you running. I had a USB battery pack with 32 Ah for one camera and that would get me 2.5 days to 3.5 days with no night vision (V3 Cam), no sound detection, and motion detection set at 100. That is real world testing results.

I have one 50W solar panel and a 12 Volt 8 Ah SLA battery with a solar controller in between. I have zero issues now. I’m in Colorado. I will still pull 3 volts to 7 volts in cloudy, non-direct sun.

Right now looking at 4 to 6 cameras, and a Cellular WiFi hotspot.
Might also add a Wyze home monitoring system (power to base).
Maybe a base for a few Wyze outdoor cameras.
I am hoping the Hotspot will do what I need without adding a separate WiFi router.

Your results make me hopeful.

I’d go with li Iron Phos batteries. They can withstand a 90% discharge unlike lead acid with should be discharged to only 50%. Deep cycle can go more but it is still not good to discharge too low too many times. Of course lithium is initially more costly, but after replacing lead acid batteries several times, it is actually more cost effective. The biggest plus is that it is much smaller and lighter.