How to make Wyze Cam v4 connect to Wi-Fi 6?

@dave27 - The TP Link XE75/AXE5400 is managed with an app with limited access and capability. I waa able to access the router via the ip address. Neither gives any real tech details, except the usual, for connected clients. Less thru the ip address than the app. You would think just the opposite. PHY nowhere to be found. Perhaps TP Link support can address. Not that it matters, the BCP’s function to my satisfaction.

I accept yours and others detailed technical understanding and explanations of the current standards for wifi operations. Would have been understood if Wyze had stated 5ghz backward compatible to 4ghz/802.11n. Of course this would probably affect Wyze’s marketing strategy.

Yes.

Too bad Wyze doesn’t have a wiki or FAQ page. This good and thorough info will scroll off into the sunset.

Most people are too lazy to use Google let along using the search functionality in the forum. This is definitely good information for those eager to learn.

The problem is the terminology is just confusing, even for them probably. They do actually state it correctly, according to the specs of the BCP it supports “Wi-Fi: 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz, 802.11a/n/g/b”.

Of that list, 802.11N (aka WIFI4) is the latest and most common and pretty much any home router out there will use that, so the BCP is using 802.11N/WIFI4 whether you connect at 2.4ghz or 5ghz. 5ghz will give you shorter range, but likely better throughput and latency (if the camera is close enough to connect using that). Typically less interference and congestion on 5ghz too which is really the main benefit in this scenario. None of these cams need more bandwidth than 2.4ghz is capable of, but when congested with lots of neighbors or competing devices in your own home, the bandwidth on 2.4ghz can drop very low and could even get low enough to impact the cameras (around 2-3 megabits per second approx).

If things are working for you how they are now, no need to worry about it. I’m guessing the cam that would not connect to 5ghz is just too far from your router to get a good 5ghz signal.

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this is not about logo, it is dishonest to customers print wifi6 on the box.
wpa3 is common these days.
when customers see wifi6, many pick camera thinking camera will not be jammed

WPA3 doesn’t prevent jamming, jammers just put out lots of noise to consume the spectrum and drown out your signal.

The main benefit of WPA3 is that WPA2 can technically be hacked (it requires knowledge, time, and equipment but it does happen). WPA3 so far has not been cracked.

We’re not at a point yet where you can force WPA3 only mode, and having WPA2/3 compatibility mode still allows someone to potentially hack your wifi, so it is sort of pointless, but at some point everything will support WPA3. If the v4 supports Wifi 6 it is capable of WPA3, if it doesn’t do it now (I’m not clear if it does or not) it could probably be added via firmware update.

mass jamming never happens these days, maybe in your head :slight_smile:
jammers use deauth attack and that wpa3 prevents
“One of the primary defenses against WiFi jammers is enabling WPA3 (Wi-Fi Protected Access 3), which is built into a majority of our networks today; this enhances the security of wireless networks by making it significantly more challenging for unauthorized individuals to interfere with the communication between devices.”

not true either, newer routers offer multi-ssids, so one could wpa3, other wpa2 only.

yes should be added, i only indicated wifi6 on the box is misleading and for sure will turn away some buyers after they realize wpa3 misssing

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@dave27 - If only that was the case. Both BCP’s were setup in the same room at the same time within 3 - 4 yards of the router. When network selection options appeared, 1 readily connected to 5ghz and the other would not with message that wifi network connection failed. After multiple attempts settled on 2.4ghz. In the router you can set device preference for node and wifi band, I selected 5ghz for wifi band but the connected network is 2.4ghz as selected during setup. The message in the router states “This client will only connect to 5 GHz Wi-Fi.” They are mounted on opposite sides of my house with the 2.4 BCP a room closer to the same node than the 5ghz BCP. I believe the 2.4 BCP has a fault in the wifi radio restricting the 5ghz assignment. Although still within warranty, do I dare start a defective ticket for a replacement?

Presently, I’ve got my fingers crossed hoping for good results from the vdb.v2 and pan cam.v3 firmware updates.

It is more common than ever. Even low level porch pirates have a watch or box in their pocket with RF jammer. That’s why you need SD cards in wifi cams.

That is not jamming, that is an attack, and often used to get you to reconnect to a rogue AP so they can capture what they need to hack your password. The cheap RF blasters the theives carry are not deauth devices. Jamming and deauth attacks are often confused, but if you check more than just the first google result or wherever you got that quote from, you’ll learn the difference. Technically you can prevent this attack with WPA2, every AP supports PMF these days, but not all devices do. WPA3 just forces it enabled. The real benefit of WPA3 is stronger cypher and fixes that prevent a rogue AP from capturing enough to reverse engineer your password.

Older routers offer that too. Considering the vast majority of home users have a single SSID and put their cams and other risky IOT devices on it (along with their own secure PCs etc) doubtful that many are going to go to that trouble. Those that do use multiple SSIDs, aren’t going to double the number to have one be WPA2 and one be WPA3 when in reality, if someone gets access to the WPA2 network, you’ve been compromised anyway, there isn’t much point until you go completely WPA3.

Not misleading, Wifi6 compliance does not require WPA3. Even on Wifi6e, it is only required on the 6ghz band to be compliant. You’re confusing WIfi version and frequency band, they aren’t the same. Nowhere does Wyze claim the camera is Wifi6E, 6ghz, or WPA3 compliant.

Uncalled for, just because you’re confused and trying to save face, doesn’t mean you need to stoop to that level, starting to border on troll like behavior.

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Does sound like a faulty wifi chipset however if you have a mesh system or even just one of the more advanced home routers, sometimes the features in those can interfere, especially if you have a single SSID covering both frequencies and it uses band steering and/or load balancing between nodes. Unfortunately these features all rely on the AP tricking the client into doing what it wants, and the client can get confused.

As a test, you could set up a second SSID that is 5ghz only (and if on a mesh system, could even have it on a single node) just to see if the camera can connect. If not, then yeah most likely a bad cam.

But honestly, I wouldn’t want these cams bogging down my 5ghz network. The slowest device or the one with a cheap chipset will drag down the performance of everything else on that band, even if they are in their own SSID. So unless you have a router with dual 5ghz bands (and you aren’t using one for backhaul etc), probably better to have them both on 2.4 anyway, assuming you aren’t having issues with congestion/capacity on 2.4 in your area.

such “jamming” never happens, what you trying describe is interference not jamming, please stop spreading misinformation and educate yourself, i am not going waste time explaining you.
and yes wifi6 mandates wpa3, wpa3 is not band, never implied this, you deliberately twist my words to save your face.

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Great example of an intelligent response :clap::clap:

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@dave27 - Thanks for the advise. As of now, the mesh system, my cellphone and the BCP’s are my only 5ghz capable devices. I lead a fairly simple life.

Maybe 1 day when I’m looking for a project, I’ll bring out the ladder, take them down, bring them inside and start a setup to link them 2.4.

Very detailed and tutorial-like post you offer and have increased my knowledge base including @carverofchoice; @Crease and @habib, dismissing the fondness for :upside_down_face:

I’m also not interested in wasting any more time on this, it’s not like the false information you have above can’t easily be debunked using quick google searches, obviously it is completely up to you whether you want to learn or not. However I’d ask that you follow your own advice and stop spreading misinformation.

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If everything is working fine on your network, no need to worry about it. The main benefit to 5ghz on these cams is if you’re in an area where there is a lot of congestion on the 2.4 band and it is affecting their ability to connect/stream smoothly. Sounds like that’s not the case for you, so you can set them up on either one that works, no need to get out a ladder if they’re not easily accessible.

There are of course “best practices” and “perfect” but a lot of them aren’t things the average home user is going to be doing or worrying about. I’m in the networking industry so it is just automatic for me to want things set up perfectly :slight_smile:

For me, I have a separate isolated network for IOT devices, another for guests, and one for my trusted devices. Each is set up a bit different (IOT is 2.4ghz only for example) and there are VLANs, firewalls, etc between them. But that is not something most are going to want/need to do.

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I don’t know what this means:

I guess I should just blame @fmills1d for tagging me into this, 'cause I just finished reading the entire topic. Yeesh. So much confusion caused by misunderstanding and not at all aided by imprecise use of the lingo (nor the tenuous relationships with facts that some posters have exhibited). :disappointed:

I appreciate the patience of @dave27 and @p2788deal. :bowing_man:

This comment was definitely relatable:

:roll_eyes:

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@dave27 - Thanks again. Likewise with separate IoT 2.4 only network. Have guest network available but not setup. Nothing specific for trusted devices but can use device isolation feature as a comparable and designate specific devices for QoS. Simple life :slightly_smiling_face:

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I would like to know the same as I don’t think I gave any sound advice on this post. I was just shooting the s…t

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I may or may not do that from time to time. Sometimes I play with Markdown tables just to see if I can come up with something potentially useful, like maybe this:

Wi-Fi 4
(802.11n)
Wi-Fi 5
(802.11ac)
Wi-Fi 6
(802.11ax)
Wi-Fi 6E
(← extended)
:point_left: these are names or
:point_left: labels for standards
2.4 GHz :white_check_mark: :negative_squared_cross_mark: :white_check_mark: :white_check_mark:
5 GHz :white_check_mark: :white_check_mark: :white_check_mark: :white_check_mark:
6 GHz :negative_squared_cross_mark: :negative_squared_cross_mark: :negative_squared_cross_mark: :white_check_mark:

    :point_up_2::point_up_2: these are actual bands or frequencies[1]
source: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/gaming/resources/wifi-6.html


  1. Note that frequencies are expressed in GHz, which is gigahertz, and that this is not the same as the “G” used in wireless communications labels like “5G” where the “G” stands for “generation”. ↩︎

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I freaking love that chart! After seeing it, I hope no one will ever confuse WiFi6 and 6GHz band :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

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Thanks, man! I even cited a source and added a footnote! :grin: