I have been testing the Duo. I didn’t want to install it and have to uninstall if there’s a problem. And there is; half the time it’s offline, no matter what I try. I guess the initial firmware is problematic. I’d wait until this issue is fixed in the next firmware release.
I am having the same issue, looks like I downgraded from my Eufy camera. My battery is draining even though I hardwired it. 67-63% in about 2 hours, and I turned off event recording as a test to see if it would charge.
I think I fixed the issue, I had to jump front and trans on the doorbell chime
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I can say it is officially fixed now! Added the jumper cable last night, then turned on event recording with continuous recording and the doorbell has not died yet.
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How did you previously have it wired. I mean the only two options are to wire nut the transformer wires to the door bell wires or install the jumper to complete a circuit. The jumper is included as a “wiring for yummies” solution instead of them explaining how a complete circuit works. Without the circuit complete there is no electricity at the door button wiring.
I cured my non charge issue by sending it back and just installed the DB pro back. The WAF of the Duo was hovering below 50% anyway due to its clunky look and black finish. She wasn’t thrilled enough w/ the dual cams to overcome the ugly so I didn’t take a replacement unit.
If they make a DB Pro Extreme Magnum Plus w/2k or better that I would probably purchase.
What about the third option with the Chime Controller?
My previous doorbell never had a jumper cable and it charged fine. I had a Eufy Duo Cam doorbell hard wired in, it worked with my mechanical chime and charged.
That is in fact a third option, as in it’s an optional part. You have 2 ways to do it as included or you order a part to make it a third way. But seeing as the chime controller is an optional option that option is not one of the options present as packaged.
Ok, so then my question would be. Did you just remove the Eufy camera and replace it with the Duo? Like remove Eufy, attach wires to Duo cam and call it a day without following the instructions for install and skip the parts after “pairing the camera to app”. Did you multimeter the wires going to the doorbell button to determine that you had voltage and the correct voltage present before attaching to the W Duo.
Even the Eufy camera shows a jumper wire installed between Trans and the door terminal. I’m just trying to figure out how electricity could complete the circuit without either the jumper or direct connect of the two transformer wires to the two wires leading to the door bell button.
I had tried both the 16V and 24V terminals before sending the Duo unit back. V2 has been great (knock wood). Got it wired with a remote chime from Amazon, works well. Alexa integration still seems broken, but I can live with that.
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I don’t blame you. Seems like you did more troubleshooting than most would probably do.
I still like my Video Doorbell v2, as well. There’s a whole other topic (probably more than one) about the broken Alexa integration with that. Even trying to do it with Routines doesn’t work consistently, so my next step will probably be to trigger it off a Plug changing state and see what happens with that, because Alexa doesn’t seem to detect the doorbell button presses very well.
Omg I’m having the same issue now I believe it’s hardware not firmware.
Did the replacement unit fix the issue?
I’m having the same issues and it’s really frustrating! I’ve tried switching to a different transformer and it still won’t stay charged and dies. It really shouldn’t be like this if it’s hardwire. I don’t even have continuous recordings on. And detection settings are low.
I had a 24VAC directly wired to the unit. I’ve also measured the voltage and it’s good at the door bell.
Has anyone found the root cause or a solution yet? Is it a fault hardware?
Does Duo have both updates since release? Did you install the dbv2 chime controller (proven solution for duo issues). 1 or 2 duos? Transformer rating ##V/##VAC? Voltage measured at the doorbell with the wires, db terminals after wires connected, db internal recessed contacts for battery after wires connected? Process of elimination before determining bad battery. Is the battery measuring stated rating after a full external charge?
Has both updates. What’s the dbv2 chime controller?
Sometimes charges sometimes don’t. Very inconsistent. It was fine for a month or two. And ran out of battery yesterday…
What is the amperage of the transformer you’re using? Are you sure it is wired correctly - if you have a mechanical chime are you using the chime controller?
Is your transformer or chime humming? If so something is not right, it is drawing too much power and that won’t allow the cam to charge since the transformer is overloaded.
I am a fan of these. Used 8 so far at mine and relatives homes for cams / door bells. seem rock solid.
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The only issue with the 24V ones is nearly all transformers put out about 10 to 20% higher than their label rating, to compensate for the long thin doorbell wiring. If the cam is rated for 24v max it could potentially damage it if you don’t have the worst case scenario wiring. Going with a 20V is probably a bit safer. You’d hope the doorbell manufacturers would know this and compensate (making the cams good for up to like 28V) but you know what they say about assumption…
Likely fine, but I had a 24V transformer that would take out the bulbs in my doorbell buttons in pretty short order, swapped in a 16 I had laying around and they’ve lasted years since then (also made the mechanical chime much less startling obviously).
Of course, if something is wired wrong and shorting out, doesn’t matter how big a transformer you put in (in fact that could make it much worse).