Thanks for clearing that up. I appreciate the honesty. 
When I first open my Duo Cam Doorbell, I see indication that it is charging:
Do you see this ‘plug’ icon ?
I’m surprised that the Battery Usage doesn’t show under Device Info like one would see on a Wyze Cam Outdoor.
Right, mine just shows the battery percentage. I gave up for the day and I’m going to call the electrician tomorrow.
Gave up for today and going to call the electrician tomorrow. I tried connecting the original doorbell & that won’t work either.
When you tried that, did you disconnect the white jumper wire while leaving the red and black wires in the chime box connected to their respective terminals? Unless something else came loose in the circuit, I would’ve expected that to work (assuming that you had a normal working doorbell before installing Duo Cam Doorbell). I wonder if everything behind the transformer is connected as it should be after you pulled the transformer out to photograph it when you found it. If everything is connected, then I would expect the old doorbell button to ring the chime when the circuit has power and the button is pressed.
If you’re planning to call an electrician anyway (and I don’t disagree with that; I’m just stubborn enough that I like to learn and do things myself when I can), then you might also ask about replacing the transformer while you’re at it. That can also be a DIY thing, depending on your comfort level, but it probably makes sense to just have someone else do it in this case as long as you’re scheduling a service call. In the post I linked earlier, @spamoni mentions using a 16 V AC, 30 VA transformer with his Duo Cam Doorbell, and—like I mentioned previously—your current 16 V AC, 10 VA transformer is the minimum that Wyze tends to recommend with these things. Having more apparent power (higher volt-amperes) available might give you better performance with maintaining the battery charge.
Again, if at some point in the future you decide that you want your built-in mechanical chime to ring with a Duo Cam Doorbell button press, then you can always add the Chime Controller later. That’s a relatively straightforward install (assuming that the electrician wires the chime correctly) and involves hooking up a few wires in the chime box and changing a setting in the Wyze app.
Where is the battery indicator ? mine is missing lol
I have mine connected to the door bell power, and seems to work well .
If you tap on the Wyze Duo Cam Doorbell to open it, do you see the battery icon in the upper left appear briefly then disappear? That’s what I see on mine.
I see it now with a darker picture
but look what happens when I restart camera ..
I get the Battery level Icon .. is this a bug?
when you close the app and reopen the app that icon is gone ,
Your transformer is right at the minimum requirement for the camera. You might want to try removing the battery and plug in to USB charger to get it up to 100% ( takes 8-10 hours). Then reinsert battery and see if your transformer can keep it charged.
I replaced my transformer with a larger 20VA just to provide a cushion.
Also, if you have an SD card installed and set to record continuously, you could try setting to events only to see if that makes a difference.
I do have the WiFi chime as well. We’re still in our one year builders warranty period so I’m hoping the electrician will cover the service call under that. When I tried the original dumbbell again I had everything wired back but it wouldn’t work. I told them it had been powering the new doorbell but then stopped. lol. So hopefully they’ll cover it.
If everything was back to the way you started (red chime box wire on TRANS, black chime box wire on FRONT, and white jumper wire gone) with the original doorbell button attached and that didn’t actuate the chime when power was restored to the circuit and the button was pressed, then I think that indicates you have a problem elsewhere in the circuit. It’s possible that the button is bad, too, so you could try briefly touching the red and black wires together at the button’s location (when the circuit has power) to see what happens. If that doesn’t make the chime ring, then you might have something disconnected somewhere.
If you feel comfortable doing this—since you’ve had the transformer pulled out previously anyway—then you could also check the the “line” (back) side connections on the transformer. In the box behind the chime, I’d expect to see three wires coming out the back of the transformer:
- a green wire connected via wire nut to a bare copper ground wire in the box,
- a white wire connected to (an)other white neutral wire(s), and
- a black wire connected to (an)other black line wire(s).
It’s possible that one or more of those connections are loose, and you definitely want power to the box to be off when checking. This is where it’s good to have a non-contact voltage tester for confirmation that no power is going into the box at that time. You could make sure that the wire nuts are connecting everything they’re supposed to and then carefully place the transformer back in the box and try testing again.
Also (and this might seem like a dumb question, but please bear with me), when you attached the extension wires that came with Duo Cam Doorbell to the red and black wires at the doorbell button’s location, did you remove the insulation from the bare ends? I believe that one end of each wire has a spade terminal and the other end has the insulation pre-cut but still attached, so it’s important to pull off that short bit of loosened insulation so that you’re actually connecting conductors (touching metal to metal) when you twist the wires together with the included nuts. I’m not trying to be insulting by asking that question; I’m merely trying to cover the bases because I don’t know what your level of experience (or anyone else’s) is with these sorts of things, and I don’t want to overlook something simple. Plus, since this is a public Forum, I want to put that out there in case it can help someone else in the future.
That’s cool if you’d rather not mess with it, too, especially if you have an electrician scheduled. I’d still consider increasing the apparent power output (VA) of your transformer if you’re having an electrician check it out. Transformers themselves are relatively inexpensive, and hopefully the warranty will cover the cost of the service call and labor.
I repeated your steps, power cycling the Wyze Duo Cam Doorbell, and also saw the battery where you saw it, closed the app, opened the app, and the battery icon disappeared as well.
Not insulting at all! I appreciate your extensive help! I did remove the insulation. To be honest, I feel like the electrician doesn’t want to be bothered with me in general, I left him a message Monday,
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FINALLY!!! Electrician came yesterday!!! The problem was the chime transformer. The guy said it looked like one of the mechanics inside the chime box could have gotten stuck at some point, burning up the transformer, so there was no power going to the doorbell itself from the transformer. He’s supposed to put in a new one today.
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Oh, good deal. I hope that solves it for you.
I had to refresh my memory on this topic, because it’s been a minute.
If the problem is with the transformer itself and its ability to deliver power, then I’d expect a replacement to take care of that, and even if a striker or something else in the chime is stuck, then I wouldn’t expect that to cause a problem if you’re just bypassing the mechanical chime and using Duo Cam Doorbell’s Wi-Fi Chime; however, if that’s covered by your warranty and you can get a replacement chime in addition to the transformer, then I’d ask about that. Then if you want to get the mechanical chime’s ding-dong! from a doorbell button press later on, you can always undo the bypass and wire in a Chime Controller to use with your Duo Cam Doorbell.
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Hopefully that solves the problem and is covered by the warranty. 
@nholc2600 - Now would be a good time to invest in a multimeter even as a novice ( Amazon $15 - $20). Also consider having the electrician up the transformer to the next level if you are thinking about a second duo db in the future. Although it’s a very easy DIY now that you have located it. Another Amazon $15 -$20 investment.
Although my sub-$10 Harbor Freight multimeter has served me well for many years, I recently upgraded to a different unit so I can measure capacitance on the HVAC unit.
Definitely a good tool to have in the box if you take the time to learn how to use it.
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