That’s incorrect. It’s 16 V AC (look at the imprint of the black part to the right of the terminals in the image) and 10 VA, which is at the low end of the power requirement for the Wyze doorbells but still within recommended specifications. You can replace that if you want, but I’m not convinced that it’s necessary, especially if that’s not the source of the unwanted noise.
That seems more accurate, and if you’re using a regular mechanical chime but want the buzz/hum/ding-dong to stop until you get a Chime Controller, then you can bypass the chime entirely and just use the Wi-Fi Chime that’s included with Duo Cam Doorbell. This is what I’d do:
- Take a picture of the current wiring inside the chime box. Likely it’s got three terminals—FRONT, TRANS, and REAR—with wires connected to FRONT and TRANS.
- It might also be helpful to label the wires with pieces of tape so you know how things were wired before you started. (Ideally, you’d test with a multimeter to make sure that the wiring is correct before you start, but at least this way you can reset things to original before doing other mucking about.)
- Disconnect the FRONT and TRANS wires from their terminals and connect them together with a wire nut.
This way your Duo Cam Doorbell can continue to get power, and the nuisance noises should cease. Unfortunately, it still appears that the only way currently to order a Chime Controller as a separate accessory from Wyze is via the app. I’ve asked Wyze about this but haven’t received a response. I imagine they have other priorities, but I think it blows that they’re not making it easier for customers to buy this thing that would fix a lot of complaints about Duo Cam Doorbell.
Thank you for including the photo! Things like that really help. 
If my recommendation about bypassing the home’s chime isn’t clear or if you have other questions, then please feel free to share a photo of what’s inside your chime box and ask more questions.