Cam v2 doorbell

Thank you for including the product link and photos! :+1:

I should’ve mentioned this before: How do you have Video Doorbell v2’s  Settings ➜ Chime ➜ Doorbell Chime Type set? Have you been through the steps in this Help Center article?

Yeah, what you’re showing looks like a pretty typical mechanical chime, and I would expect that to work as long as the transformer, wiring, and chime mechanism are connected and operating correctly.

I’m not sure what that means. Maybe you meant that you tried it without using Chime Controller? Video Doorbell v2 requires a typical step-down transformer to work.

I’m also familiar with the alternate wiring instructions, as I tried this at one point when my Video Doorbell v2 stopped reliably ringing my chime with a button press. That was something Wyze Support suggested before they replaced my Video Doorbell v2 and before I did additional troubleshooting and discovered what my real problem was (which I’ll get to below).

Thank you. I updated your topic tags to include Video Doorbell v2.

Either of the two higher-voltage/power terminal combinations of your previous tri-volt transformer should be sufficient if your wiring is correct, especially if you’re driving only a single video doorbell. I don’t know if the higher voltage and apparent power of your new transformer is going to be a problem with the mechanical chime over time.

This wasn’t a yes/no question. I realize that you’ve done some voltage checking (presumably with a multimeter), but that alone may or may not tell you what you want to know about the wiring situation. Because of my own experience with this particular video doorbell model, I would want to be assured that I know where each wire is originating and connecting so that I have an understanding of all the pathways in the circuit.

Is that the same sound that you hear when the Video Doorbell v2 restarts and/or when it transitions between regular (greyscale) night vision and “Color Night Vision” as the IR filter moves into or out of its position in front of the image sensor, or do you think it’s something else entirely?

That’s a good question. I was thinking it’s probably just the one button, but this is a good thing to ask. :+1:

I was initially puzzled by this, as well.

This is good to know. :+1:

What do you measure at the doorbell button’s location? Also, how are you measuring it at the chime? For instance, if I was trying to measure AC voltage in a normal doorbell circuit with a “dumb” button and placing my probes on the chime’s FRONT and TRANS terminals, I wouldn’t expect to see any significant measurement unless the circuit was closed by pressing the button. I’m trying to understand what you’re testing.

Who or what suggested that a relay would be necessary in this situation? The only time I recall relays discussed in the Forum as part of a solution with these things is in situations where someone wanted a single Video Doorbell v2 to actuate more than one chime. I agree with @fmills1d that it’s unlikely to be the solution to your problem. Given the chime you’re showing, the transformer you’re describing, and the Video Doorbell v2 and Chime Controller you’re using, you should have what you need to get this working as long as the wiring itself is intact and correctly connected.

What has Wyze Support said when you contacted them? In this situation I’d probably do a couple of things if you haven’t already:

  1. Contact Wyze Support. I’d reproduce the issue (the non-ringing chime), submit a log from the app, and then create a Support ticket. In the ticket, I’d mention the Log ID that I generated and describe the problem. They’ll probably have you try several things you’ve already tried, and they may offer to replace the unit. That’s what they did when my Video Doorbell v2 stopped actuating my home’s built-in mechanical chime, which is very similar to what you’re using.
  2. Confirm the wiring in the circuit. Despite all the troubleshooting I did while working with Wyze Support, they didn’t resolve the problem. I eventually did my own investigation using a multimeter and its resistance setting and determined through my testing that my chime had been wired incorrectly before I ever moved into this house. The wire that was connected to the chime’s TRANS terminal was actually coming from the doorbell button’s location and the wire that was connected to the chime’s FRONT terminal was coming from the transformer. With the original dumb doorbell button, this didn’t matter, because all that button does is close the circuit. When I added a Video Doorbell v2 and correctly connected the Chime Controller, then this wiring mistake absolutely did matter, and resolving that was the definitive solution to my problem.

I really appreciate the photos that you shared of your own chime, because they indicate that you have Chime Controller wired to the chime in the way I would expect to see if the other wiring is correct. Do you know for certain that the wires labeled “DOOR BELL” and “TRANS GARAGE” are absolutely correct and go to those locations? If there’s any doubt at all, then I’d test that, because that’s something I’d definitely want to confirm, and it’s something that should be easy enough to do with a multimeter. You’d use resistance mode for that (even better if you have a multimeter with an actual continuity mode), and you wouldn’t want any power in the circuit while doing any tests that involve continuity/resistance. If you want to read about how I tested and solved my chime problem, then you can find it in my original write-up (there’s a section in that post you’ll need to tap or click to expand).[1] If you have other questions or want step-by-step instructions of what and how I would test at your locations, then please feel free to let me know.

At this point—if you have the device configured correctly in the app—I think you may have a wiring issue or a problematic Video Doorbell v2. I’m just not sure which is the case, and that’s why I’d want to do additional testing and also contact Support.


  1. In my installation, two-conductor (red and white) bell wire is used, so what I describe in that write-up as the white wires would be like the white wires in your installation, and my red wires would be your blue wires. ↩︎