Can anyone tell me if there’s an alternative way for my interior Nutone 1991 mechanical door chime to be compatible with this contraption? I have tried everything, upgrading to a 24v 40va transformer, controller hooked up in 3 different ways, no controller etc. The best I get is intermittent ding dong after I hear a quiet double resetting at the cam button area outside the house.
Welcome to the Forum, @ramm440! 
I didn’t have any luck searching for Nutone 1991 when trying to figure out what kind of chime you have, so I’ll just dive in with a bunch of follow-up questions to try to better understand your situation:
- What is the exact model of your doorbell chime? If you can provide a clear photo, preferably something showing the terminals and wiring, then that could be helpful.
- Is your chime compatible according to the Help Center article?
- Are you actually trying to use Video Doorbell v2? Your tags and topic title aren’t entirely clear, but I think that’s what you’re alluding to here.
- What were you using for a doorbell button prior to installing Video Doorbell v2 (if that’s what you’re using now)?
- Was the chime working before?
- What was the rating of the transformer you were using prior to replacement?
- What measurement/testing have you done while troubleshooting (e.g., measuring voltage at the transformer and at the doorbell button’s location and comparing that to the transformer’s rating, tracing the wiring to ensure that the correct wires and terminals are connected, etc.)?
- I’m not sure what you mean by this, so what additional explanation can you provide?
Other community members may have additional questions, but this is where I’d start in order to get the lay of the land.
I am not an electrician.
Welcome to the Forum, @ramm440!
I didn’t have any luck searching for Nutone 1991 when trying to figure out what kind of chime you have, so I’ll just dive in with a bunch of follow-up questions to try to better understand your situation:
- What is the exact model of your doorbell chime? If you can provide a clear photo, preferably something showing the terminals and wiring, then that could be helpful.
- Is your chime compatible according to the Help Center article?
- Supposed to be compatible with the controller and proper transformer for which I am using both. I have tried no transformer and alternative hook up methods also.
- Are you actually trying to use Video Doorbell v2? Your tags and topic title aren’t entirely clear, but I think that’s what you’re alluding to here.
- Yes Wyze Cam v2 doorbell. Wyze doesn’t make a wireless plugin 110v for the Cam v2 or I would go that route.
- What were you using for a doorbell button prior to installing Video Doorbell v2 (if that’s what you’re using now)?
- Originally the dumb doorbell button. No I am using the intermittent wyze cam v2 doorbell.
- Was the chime working before?
- Intermittently
- What was the rating of the transformer you were using prior to replacement?
- Prior to:Intertek 5015490 has 3 options 8v 10va, 16v 10va, 24v 20va
Currently: 24v 40va test show 27 volts at transformer and chime.
- What measurement/testing have you done while troubleshooting (e.g., measuring voltage at the transformer and at the doorbell button’s location and comparing that to the transformer’s rating, tracing the wiring to ensure that the correct wires and terminals are connected, etc.)?
- Yes
- I’m not sure what you mean by this, so what additional explanation can you provide?
ramm440:
I hear a quiet double resetting at the cam button area outside the house.
Other community members may have additional questions, but this is where I’d start in order to get the lay of the land.
- After pushing the button and no chime occurs inside the house I wait and listen and I can hear the cam v2 outside make a very quiet click click sound. Then push the button and the chime inside rings. Push the button again and same wait for the very quiet click click sound and rings. When I jump the two hook up screws on the back of the cam v2 chime rings very crisp. Another thing is I never lose the camera operation during all this.
Thank you
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@ramm440 - Are you operating front and rear doorbells and chimes?
Can you post a photo of your chime box with the chime controller installed or not installed for view of wiring configuration.
You stated the previous chime setup worked “intermittently” pointing perhaps to an already existing issue in your doorbell/chime setup that probably should have been addressed before attempting the dbv2 install.
Is the transformer wired directly to a breaker in your electrical panel and is it a shared breaker? Or is the transformer wired into a light or outlet box?
Not wanting to speculate but it does appear to point to a possible short somewhere or a faulty chime box.
Have you tested the voltage at the connections in the chime box and watched the actuators when the db button is pressed?
As shared by @Crease, I also am not a licensed electrician. Just extensive diy experience and knowledge.
Sorry for no being more clear. I am operating one doorbell only.
The dumb doorbell worked with zero issues so there was nothing to address.
27 volts at both locations transformer and chime. Doorbell gives a crisp ring everytime if I jump the connection screws on the back of the camera. The chime only intermittently works after some sort of reset sound from the cam. I have tried a new controller. My persistence is killing me! lol
It has been suggested that I need a relay due to the controller not being handle my equipment.
The relay is a AC Packard PR1931 24 vachttps://www.supplyhouse.com/Packard-PR1931-Potential-Relay-31-2-Continuous-Coil-Voltage
Your chimebox model closely resembles what my son has at his house. I installed without issue a new 24/40 transformer and the dbv2’s with controllers I had when I moved to the video db duos.
I was confused by your “intermittently” comment but now you state the dumb db worked without issues. Still would be interested in a photo of the inside of your db chimebox and wiring configuration.
Although that relay is rather inexpensive, not convinced it is a needed solution. Is there a voltage rating on your chimebox? With all the conversations in the forum on db issues, I do not recall a relay ever being suggested as a possible fix.
Thank you for including the product link and photos! 
I should’ve mentioned this before: How do you have Video Doorbell v2’s Settings ➜ Chime ➜ Doorbell Chime Type set? Have you been through the steps in this Help Center article?
Yeah, what you’re showing looks like a pretty typical mechanical chime, and I would expect that to work as long as the transformer, wiring, and chime mechanism are connected and operating correctly.
I’m not sure what that means. Maybe you meant that you tried it without using Chime Controller? Video Doorbell v2 requires a typical step-down transformer to work.
I’m also familiar with the alternate wiring instructions, as I tried this at one point when my Video Doorbell v2 stopped reliably ringing my chime with a button press. That was something Wyze Support suggested before they replaced my Video Doorbell v2 and before I did additional troubleshooting and discovered what my real problem was (which I’ll get to below).
Thank you. I updated your topic tags to include Video Doorbell v2.
Either of the two higher-voltage/power terminal combinations of your previous tri-volt transformer should be sufficient if your wiring is correct, especially if you’re driving only a single video doorbell. I don’t know if the higher voltage and apparent power of your new transformer is going to be a problem with the mechanical chime over time.
This wasn’t a yes/no question. I realize that you’ve done some voltage checking (presumably with a multimeter), but that alone may or may not tell you what you want to know about the wiring situation. Because of my own experience with this particular video doorbell model, I would want to be assured that I know where each wire is originating and connecting so that I have an understanding of all the pathways in the circuit.
Is that the same sound that you hear when the Video Doorbell v2 restarts and/or when it transitions between regular (greyscale) night vision and “Color Night Vision” as the IR filter moves into or out of its position in front of the image sensor, or do you think it’s something else entirely?
That’s a good question. I was thinking it’s probably just the one button, but this is a good thing to ask.
I was initially puzzled by this, as well.
This is good to know.
What do you measure at the doorbell button’s location? Also, how are you measuring it at the chime? For instance, if I was trying to measure AC voltage in a normal doorbell circuit with a “dumb” button and placing my probes on the chime’s FRONT and TRANS terminals, I wouldn’t expect to see any significant measurement unless the circuit was closed by pressing the button. I’m trying to understand what you’re testing.
Who or what suggested that a relay would be necessary in this situation? The only time I recall relays discussed in the Forum as part of a solution with these things is in situations where someone wanted a single Video Doorbell v2 to actuate more than one chime. I agree with @fmills1d that it’s unlikely to be the solution to your problem. Given the chime you’re showing, the transformer you’re describing, and the Video Doorbell v2 and Chime Controller you’re using, you should have what you need to get this working as long as the wiring itself is intact and correctly connected.
What has Wyze Support said when you contacted them? In this situation I’d probably do a couple of things if you haven’t already:
- Contact Wyze Support. I’d reproduce the issue (the non-ringing chime), submit a log from the app, and then create a Support ticket. In the ticket, I’d mention the Log ID that I generated and describe the problem. They’ll probably have you try several things you’ve already tried, and they may offer to replace the unit. That’s what they did when my Video Doorbell v2 stopped actuating my home’s built-in mechanical chime, which is very similar to what you’re using.
- Confirm the wiring in the circuit. Despite all the troubleshooting I did while working with Wyze Support, they didn’t resolve the problem. I eventually did my own investigation using a multimeter and its resistance setting and determined through my testing that my chime had been wired incorrectly before I ever moved into this house. The wire that was connected to the chime’s TRANS terminal was actually coming from the doorbell button’s location and the wire that was connected to the chime’s FRONT terminal was coming from the transformer. With the original dumb doorbell button, this didn’t matter, because all that button does is close the circuit. When I added a Video Doorbell v2 and correctly connected the Chime Controller, then this wiring mistake absolutely did matter, and resolving that was the definitive solution to my problem.
I really appreciate the photos that you shared of your own chime, because they indicate that you have Chime Controller wired to the chime in the way I would expect to see if the other wiring is correct. Do you know for certain that the wires labeled “DOOR BELL” and “TRANS GARAGE” are absolutely correct and go to those locations? If there’s any doubt at all, then I’d test that, because that’s something I’d definitely want to confirm, and it’s something that should be easy enough to do with a multimeter. You’d use resistance mode for that (even better if you have a multimeter with an actual continuity mode), and you wouldn’t want any power in the circuit while doing any tests that involve continuity/resistance. If you want to read about how I tested and solved my chime problem, then you can find it in my original write-up (there’s a section in that post you’ll need to tap or click to expand).[1] If you have other questions or want step-by-step instructions of what and how I would test at your locations, then please feel free to let me know.
At this point—if you have the device configured correctly in the app—I think you may have a wiring issue or a problematic Video Doorbell v2. I’m just not sure which is the case, and that’s why I’d want to do additional testing and also contact Support.
In my installation, two-conductor (red and white) bell wire is used, so what I describe in that write-up as the white wires would be like the white wires in your installation, and my red wires would be your blue wires. ↩︎
Appreciate everyone’s help here!
I just went outside this morning and pushed the wyze button and no ring inside again but when I listen closely for 10-20 seconds I hear a soft “click” “click” sound at the wyze door bell and then I get one ring at the chime inside on the next push of the button. The click click has to be something resetting or the controller sending power to the chime side. idk?
I neglected in earlier communications to answer a few of your questions clearly I know. I mis spoke and said I eliminated the trans. I should have said controller.
The way I identified the 4 wires in my chime controller was through my multi meter continuity test. The two that say Trans Garage definitely tested positive after twisting them together at the chime box and testing from the garage/trans. with my multi-meter. I did the same test for the two marked doorbell.
I have tried changing settings in the app to "none"but the only way it attempts to work is to set it to “mechanical”
Without hearing/seeing for myself, my best guess would be that this is the “click-click” that I hear my Video Doorbell v2 and other Wyze Cams make when the device is restarting/rebooting, and I understand this sound to be the IR filter engaging and disengaging, like it’s doing some kind of startup test/calibration or something. I don’t know why the Video Doorbell v2 would be doing this unless there was some sort of power issue or defect with the unit, though, which is why one of my suggestions is to contact Support.
I wouldn’t expect the Chime Controller to be sending power or anything else to the Video Doorbell v2, because that’s not my understanding of the way this works. If Video Doorbell v2 is wired correctly and power is flowing through the system as expected, then one of its screw terminals should essentially be receiving power straight from the transformer (via the white wire). The blue wire connected to the other screw terminal should be the electrical path from Video Doorbell v2 to the Chime Controller (and from there to the chime).
When you tested, did you do these independent of one another, making sure that nothing was connected at any other path in the circuit so that you didn’t get a false positive result? In other words, if you’re testing continuity from the transformer end, I would expect all wires to be free during testing except for the two you’re connecting to test the continuity loop:
- blue and white wires disconnected from Video Doorbell v2 and not touching one another at the button location
- blue and white wires from “DOOR BELL” jacket at chime disconnected from any other wires and not touching one another or anything else
- blue and white wires disconnected from the transformer’s terminals at that end so that the multimeter’s probes could be cleanly connected to each
- blue and white wires from “TRANS GARAGE” jacket connected to one another because this is what you’re testing and should be the only connection in the circuit
Then when checking the “DOOR BELL” side I would do the same thing, making sure the “TRANS GARAGE” wires at the chime were no longer connected to one another and not touching anything else (each end is free) and that the wires at the transformer are still disconnected and not touching anything else.
Please understand that when I’m talking through these things, I’m trying to think of how I would solve a particular problem and trying to be explicit about each step because I don’t want to make assumptions about another person’s experience with these sorts of things. I’m not trying to oversimplify anything and certainly don’t want someone to feel like I’m talking down in any way. (For all I know, you might have a great deal more experience with electrical DIY than I do!) I just want to try to be clear and hopefully avoid confusion, and I really don’t want to make an assumption that would cause us to miss something while trying to sort through this.
If you’ve done all that and are assured that the wires are labeled correctly and that all of your connections are solid when you put everything back together (like I said before, the way you had Chime Controller connected to the chime is how I’d expect to see this wired, so I’d put it back together that way), then I wonder if you have a failed or failing video doorbell unit.
That’s expected, so thank you for checking that.
You could also try setting the Doorbell Chime Type to Digital with a short Ring Tone Length, as described in the troubleshooting article I linked in an earlier post, but that might make it sound goofy because of the delay (if it actuates the chime at all), and ideally you’d want to leave it set to Mechanical for the type of chime you’re using anyway.
The one outstanding question I have is about the voltage at the button’s location, and I’d want to test this by having everything except the Video Doorbell v2 connected:
blue and 
white wires connected to the transformer’s terminals (one wire to each terminal)- both white wires connected to each other at the chime
- blue “TRANS GARAGE” wire connected to chime’s TRANS terminal
red Chime Controller wire connected to chime’s TRANS terminal- white Chime Controller wire connected to chime’s FRONT terminal
black Chime Controller wire connected to blue “DOOR BELL” wire
Then I’d check voltage on the bare wires at the doorbell button’s location with Video Doorbell v2 completely disconnected there. Video Doorbell v2 has a capacitor inside that will keep it powered and online for a short time even after you turn off its power or disconnect it from the transformer wiring, so I’d want to have it completely disconnected while testing the voltage in the wires.
If you’re seeing the expected stable voltage in the wires, then I’d reconnect Video Doorbell v2 and wonder about the chime itself. I’d probably move the Chime Controller’s white spade connector to the chime’s REAR terminal and test a doorbell button press in that configuration. That should give you a single “ding” rather than the “ding-dong” you’d get from the FRONT chime terminal. If that works reliably with a button press, then your problem may be with the FRONT-side solenoid only, and at that point you might be looking at…
- replacing the chime,
- just leaving the Chime Controller connected to REAR for a single “ding”,
- or breaking the plunger bumper/stop that prevents the REAR chime solenoid from giving you the “dong” so that you can continue using that terminal and get the full “ding-dong” sound.
I know this all probably seems like a huge pain in the dong after all the frustration you’ve already experienced—and I certainly dealt with my own share of frustration when I made the switch from a “dumb” doorbell button, so I can identify with that—but I hope that what I’m suggesting is making sense and at least somewhat helpful.
Again, if everything else is checking out as expected at this point and you haven’t already done so, I’d reach out to Wyze Support, especially if you’re within a year of the Video Doorbell v2 purchase and it’s still covered by warranty.
so far switched to digital and behaves the same so like you said may be the actual camera outside
Wyze support had me resetting everything and she got lost herself helping me through that. They viewed s pic of my connections and confirmed I did wire everything correctly.
What did they suggest as next steps? I still have unanswered questions from previous posts, so at this point I feel like I still don’t have enough information to narrow the focus to the Video Doorbell v2 itself, the chime, or the wiring.
Thanks for checking up on my issue! They had me delete and add the cam from the app, take pics of my controller hook up and suggested I call an electrician. They gave me a 5 dollar gift card credit to buy another cam if I want. Mine will be 2 years old in June so warranty expired. I have replaced the transformer, controller, tried various hook up methods, tested voltage got 27 volts at trans., chime and cam. I had my daughter push the cam button while I measure voltage between trans and front on chime box connections and get nothing with the wyze cam hooked. I have hooked the chime back up without the cam, no controller and jumped the wires at the cam and got solid ding dong.
I think its the cam and will let you know if it is when I buy another.
Thanks for the help!
At this point I think you’re probably right. Since the beginning, the clicking noise you describe at the Video Doorbell v2 has seemed odd to me, because the only time I hear something like that from my Video Doorbell v2 is when it transitions between “Color Night Vision” and regular greyscale night vision modes or when it restarts.[1] I wouldn’t expect the device to make a noise like that in other situations, like when you’ve reported it does that sometimes after after you press the button. What you describe makes me suspicious of some kind of power issue that’s causing the the device to restart, so I’d suspect a problem with power delivery at the doorbell button or with the way the device is internally handling power (like an internal connection fault of some kind).
That’s good to know, too, and I think that rules out the chime itself as the problem.
You’re welcome. Sorry we didn’t have a better solution for you. If you try another unit and still have the same problem, then I’d continue to suspect a wiring/connection issue, and I’d expect an electrician to be able to figure that out for you if that’s the case.
I just confirmed with my own Video Doorbell v2 that I can force it to make this soft clicking noise with both of these conditions. ↩︎