I had over 3 weeks wait, but eventually had multiple responses and they are replacing defective items which I believe will solve all my issues. My take on it is they are driving very fast to release new products and focusing hard on selling those while having less staff on tech support / customer care.
This is absolutely brilliant!
Try a tp link combo router, ap, and bridge about $48 bridge the wireless tonits ethernet port and use ethernet cable to your main router that shou
d take care of it, or use it as a separate ap and hardwire it to get main ether net from your main router the set it up as wireless ap for 2.4 ghz
Does the antenna extension wire have to be insulated (covered) or can it be a bare copper wire?
I think bare would be even better, but I’m not expert so I could be wrong
VOk, so here’s the thing…The antenna length is calculated based on the frequency. Ive asked Wyze, multiple times, what frequency and protocol (like zwave, zigbee, UHF/VHF, alien tech, etc.) they are using on sense and aside from confirming it’s not zwave - they sort of evaded the question. So - the coil inside is a fairly precise length of wire tuned to the frequency used. Because it’s coiled, it loses some radiated rf energy which = loss of range. It it was uncoiled (I’m assuming of course it was manufactured correctly length wyze (see what I did there)), it would be the correct length for that frequency in 1/4, 1/2 or more or less a division of the frequency - that’s called a quarter wave, half wave or full wave antenna,v It would then be optimum. Adding wire (it doesn’t matter if it’s insulated or not - it would if it was SHIELDED - is only helping because it’s helping the tuned coil to radiate. If you took a 6” VHF rubber ducky walkie-talkie antenna, for instance, and stripped off the rubber you’d find a long pierce of wire coiled up inside. The length would be precise based on frequency - the higher the frequency the shorter the antenna. Without knowing the actual frequency you can’t determine the antenna length. So you’re cheating the system with the added wire which is again, just adding a conductive radiator or to make it easier to visualize a reflector to it, you’ll overcome the downside of rf attenuation realized from the coiling. When I have the time I’ll put a meter (frequency counter) on the thing and get the actual frequency being used and then it’s a simple math problem to get the exact length that’s optimum. The balancing act here was that the sense units had to be super small so that constraint is one of the issues. (RF power output and some other factors all add to antenna/signal performance). This is an industry wide issue known since Marconi. Adding a length of any type of relatively small gushed wire will give all sorts of mixed results but in many cases will improve the signal radiated rf power. If you wanted to get creative, and improve the performance and don’t mind a big ass pierce of wire sticking out of the sensor you could uncoil the antenna and that would be the correct length. Additionally, if you can locate a ground point and attach a (same length as the coil) wire to it, you would have a counter poise which would be more effective and electrically correct for lack of a better word. Like I said, next weekend when I have time, I’ll disassemble the whole thing, figure out what magic is in these inexpensive radios and I can post some numbers but in all honesty, and I’m a big Wyze fan, I don’t see how these cleared qa testing for range in anything other than a straight line of sight situation. If it were (it’s not) zwave for example, then they could inetract to form a mesh which would allow the signal to propagate between devices extending each ones range proportionate the the number of nodes inherent mesh. There’s only so much RF you can get from a tiny radio with a tiny battery and a tiny coil of wire. Like I said, all will be clear once I sacrifice a sensor and a sense base and spend a few minutes on the bench. There are several other ways this could have been engineered - none of which would give you that much product at that price point - it was a trade off and it is what it is. For those interested in the backstory, behold an instructable on antenna length:
“the formula for calculating antenna length was given as “length in meters =300 / frequency in MHz”. The example given was for a Bluetooth antenna with a frequency of 2450MHz. The antenna length was calculated as 300/2450 = 0.1225m = 12cm. The author then divided it by 4 to make a “quarter wave” antenna length of 30mm. Why divide it by 4 and what is the benefit of a “quarter wave” antenna. What is the effect of the conductor leading to the antenna? If the 30mm antenna is soldered to a 4mm lead, does that result in a 34mm antenna? For a fractal antenna, should the 30mm length of wire be folded into a fractal shape or should the total fractal antenna be 30mm in width? I have read somewhere that one of the benefits of a fractal antenna is that they are able to receive signals of different wave lengths.
Everyone confused yet good, me too and I know this stuff. My head still hurts 50+ years into it but it’s not magic. It’s science and math (send you kids to STEM classes everyone) calculations and some physical engineering. Before I open it, I can say, the issue is clearly power. It’s a friggin low voltage low amperage power source and it’s supposed to last a long time - 2 things that are diametrically opposed - hence the need for engineering genius to squeeze the most out of the package. Now I need a drink, have fun experimenting.
So is the :
“Sensor Communication Method 915MHz RF”
some other frequency?
As given in the detailed specs (Home Monitoring & Automation – Wyze)
I’m done experimenting. Just want it to work. Keep after the customer service. They need to stand by the products they’re selling or they’ll be out of business.
Thanks! Didn’t see that they published the frequency range. They’re in the 33 cm / ISM band. 915 MHz is the center frequency of the band bounded by 902 and 928 MHz.
At 915 MHz a full wave would be 12.9049 inches.
It has to be bare wire where it contacts the spring antenna but can be insulated otherwise
Absolutely a great explanation. Enjoy your beverage.
The wire has to be bare for contact, but the rest of the wire can be fully insulated
And it sounds like it has to be 12.9049 inches in length. That was a great reply, I had a drink after reading it as well, thanks
So does that mean that a 1/4 wave would be 3.23 inches and if that’s the case then unwinding the spring inside the camera would probably come out to just about that length.
Anyone having luck with improving range? I tried the wire trick, but no bueno.
If you haven’t already, may I suggest people cast their votes here: Sell Wyze Sense Bridge Separately. It’s only a circumvention if you have multiple cameras, but at least it’s something and doesn’t require any engineering. Don’t know why Wyze doesn’t do this immediately. It doesn’t cost them anything and could lead to some additional sales.
the trick works for me on two contact sensors. The signal strength still read low, but at least most if not all the close/open events show up.
What the distance between your sensors and the bridge?
The wire trick definitely worked for me. I have a sensor on our storage shed probably 30- 40 ft away. I also bought another bridge in the meantime in case that didn’t work so now I have an extra bridge and sensors. For the price I’m glad they were bundled together. I can always use extra sensors.
I’m still curious about interference. We live is a crowded neighborhood with way too many WiFi signals. I really worked with different routers and WiFi monitors to get good WiFi signal to my other devices. It was most noticeable trying to stream YouTube tv.
Just a thought. But I haven’t had any issues since extending the antenna and dealing with the crowded WiFi signals.
I agree completely! All this MacGyvering is not what a consumer friendly electronic product is about. Demand that WYZE make the product you invested in work. Certainly selling the bridges individually is an answer.
You know, whining and complaining doesn’t often produce positive results. Perhaps it would be a better approach if you just keep pestering Support to get them to address the issue.
They are a new company, they’re not a large company and they have a limited resources. I think they’re doing a good job based on who and what they are.