Hello,
I wanted the live video features and responsiveness of a wired v4 cam vs a wyze battery cam, and I was wondering if it would be feasible to have a few cameras running 24/7 on a 50,000 mah usb battery bank in 2 rain-protected areas of my property. Does this sound like a feasible strategy?
I would actually suggest you do something more like what @bryonhu set up to have remote cameras running continuously using solar power and battery remotely off the power grid.
I tagged him in here since he has experience setting up to make continuous recording cameras work with batteries and solar power.
This is a link to my original setup, which has been updated to LiFePO4 battery type.
The original AGM was 7 years old and lost capacity as lead acids do. The new LiFePO4 batteries have a much better lifespan and are nearly the same price these days.
The link has references that apply to both battery types.
The 12v to 5 volt USB adapter linked likely isnāt available anymore, but there are plenty of others available.
I may need to add 1 or 2 more panels though as I have 2 wyze cams and a Reolink PTZ, plus at night a 20W IR floodlight that lights up everything.
Daytime power draw is 1.2 Amps per hour and nighttime draw is 2.5 Amps per hour. The IR flood light draws more than the 3 cameras.
Renogy mini cores series batteries are high in quality and are the closest you will find in build quality to a Battleborn LiFePO4 battery. Battle born is the quality leader of those batteries in the U.S.
The Renogy batteries are much more affordable 
So after much review I went with Renogy batteries in several battery backed power systems for my needs
For outdoor use where it freezes I used a self-heating version of the battery.
Waited for it to be on sale though at $239
The Solar Charge controller needed update to configuration for LiFePO4 battery type.
Solar is the last way you should power it though if you have heavy shading.
I have a large acreage so it was my only choice*
#cut and paste from another post#
You could also consider using āLow Voltage Wiringā and burying the wire from an A.C. power outlet (indoors) power supply to the cameras. Then use a 12 volt to 5 volt micro-USB regulator adapter and install to camera.
The power Supply mounts indoors but the cable to camera can be longer as the 5 volts is regulated at the camera. And Voltage drop due to cable length is not an issue as the regulator will work with as low as 9 volts input.
I have ran over 350 feet of 2 conductor cable to camera with this setup, use low voltage lighting wiring it can be buried, it is weatherproof and UV resistant.
Connect the 12v to 5v micro-USB regulator adapter to cable matching polarity ( +red -black ) along cable where a camera is needed if more than 1 camera just get a 12 volt adapter with more current (Amps) The Adapter regulator is weatherproof except the micro-USB itself but the boot on the V3 takes care of that.
Links below to several power supplies, 2 Amp for 1 V3 pan camera. or 5 amp for 2 V3 pan cameras,
choose according to your needs. The cable run can have multiple connections for cameras along cable.
12 volt input to 5 volt output micro-USB cable (adapter) ā Sold out currently
12v to 5v Micro-USB adapter ā Alternate
12 volt power supply 2 amp with connector adapter
12 volt power supply 5 amp with connector adapter
14/2 Low Voltage Landscape Wire - 100 feet
This location originally had a V2 in an enclosure, the 12v to 5v adapter has been exposed to rain, snow, and heat of summer for over 3 years. Recently replaced V2 with a V3
Below is an event captured by this camera, note I donāt use IR as I get too many flying bug triggers.
Word of warning most those usb power banks extremely exaggerate the capacity.
The battery linked above is 100Ah (100,000mAh)
for size comparison of a truly rated battery.
If the cameras are accessible buy 2 of the biggest banks you can afford. While one is powering the cameras, have the other one recharging. (I say this tongue and cheek but there may be some validity to it).
TL:DR
Using a power bank to run cameras have a lot of gotchas.
Iāve tested a V4 on a 50,000 mAh bank. The V4 draws between 2 and 4 watts. The camera lasted about 3 1/2 days.
Manufacturer claims for mAhās are grossly overstated. They never give you the reference voltage. They pick a number that is competitive and market it. Iāve tested 7 or 8 power banks ranging from 10,000 to 90,000 mAh. Only one stated the truth. Printed on the unit it said "70,000mAh. That is what is marketed. Look at the 2nd picture and the manufacturer at least is somewhat honest and printed the real numbers. Itās really a 42,000 mAh power bank at 5volts, which is all we care about.
If you need to compare, the easiest way for me is to cut the marketed number in half. The best way is to start looking for watt/hours. This method includes the voltage and is accurate. If you look at the 2nd picture you will see 259Wh, that is what you want to compare.
The @bryonhu write up is excellent and I believe he has been down the rabbit hole with solar. He has a reliable setup that looks to give a couple of amps, non stop for a few days regardless of weather. It does look at bit pricey but I have not costed it out recently.
My solar quest started when the bird Feeder was announced. I had a V4 laying around and wasnāt in the mood to spend $89 on a BCP. I also had a 50,000mAh power bank. That started a year long project to make them work with a cheap 40 watt solar panel. What I ended up with was a Rube Goldberg contraption. I learned a bunch about solar and that made the project worthwhile. A month ago I said thatās enough - - - the RV community figured this out 2 decades ago. Iām going to explore their solutions.
As I was researching I kept stumbling on proposed, single box solutions from the likes of Anker, Jackery and a few others. They all came with flowery promises but when I looked at the recharge times they failed. The biggest challenge with solar is you need more recharge capabiliy than charge capabilty. If you can only recharge as much as you used you will never build up a reserve for inclimate weather. Non of these solutions gave me confidence. Some had to be recharged on their own, some had special requirements. All of them proclaimed how many phones they could charge and how quickly. None of them made a point of how quickly they could recharge. Then I stumbled on Daran.
They emphasized how quickly they can recharge. On AC, C cable, DC, and solar. I decided to give them a go. I zeroed in on the following unit:
This unit, along with a Renogy 100W solar panel may be the answer Iāve been looking for.
Currently Iām testing with 3 - v4ās and 3 overhead LED lights. About 7 watts.
Iām on day 2 of testing. From 11% the bank charged to 100% (288Wh) in about 4 hours. I saw the panel output peak at 1pm at 75 watts. Unbelievable. The bank only lost about 35% overnight. Today it was fully charged by noon.
I realize this test is in its earliest stage. Iāll let the community know how it goes.
So far the cost has been around $300 total.
@bryonhuāyou solved the freeze problem. I have the opposite problem. Look at the temp in my shed (I mean my lab). Itās 100. I have fans on orderš.
Thanks everyone for the excellent advice, and itās great to be a part of this community!
Welcome to the Forum, @nsdrgidldeoard! 
Iāll be interested to see what solution you come up with. Thatās a good way to contribute to the community! 
Not only do I get the snow and cold, Summer brings peak temps to 90-100ās also. A fan may be added at some point as I approach 122Ā°F inside the enclosure in the peak of summer 
Iām scheming on the following. The shed already has vents and the screw holes look to be within a 1/4 inch. 3 watts each with a built in 86Ā°F thermostat. One inlet and one exhaust.
Hoping to install next week.
Keeping fingers crossed. 
Recommended. Add a thermostatically controlled switch to control the fan. Does not even have to be summer. As many here know, I run a music synchronized Christmas light show at my house. I have several 8x8x4 or 12x12x6 PVC electrical boxes that have power supplies, or controllers, or both in various places in the yard. I learned long ago that passive cooling was not enough. I have temperature monitors in most of these boxes and without forced air cooling, they do get hot in the afternoon. Now this is southern California so we donāt get all that cold my most peopleās standards and when I am doing setup in early November, we will get afternoon temps close to 90 from time to time.
For a switch, Iām talking something like this:
Yes, having it thermally controlled was in the plans.
No need to waste energy when not needed on a sun starved solar system
Whatās 6 watts among friends. Its interesting to have free energy (I know, the up front cost)
Knowing what Iāve learned in the past year and the price reduction of panelsāif I was 10 years younger Iād put a dozen panels on the roofš.
On a system that sees 6-7 hours of sun in the peak of summer those watts count on my energy budget.
I live in the forest 
80 to 120 foot trees make my system very inefficient.
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