V2 Doorbell don’t work with chime control in, but works without chime control

Cameras
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1

I spent whole evening and up to 1:30am trying to figure the Wyze doorbell cameras. First, my original Wyze doorbell does not read the new QR code and cannot be set up to my new WIFI. I believe Wyze company sends new QR codes so that old cameras do not read — forcing you to buy a new camera. Very unhappy about that!

Second, I went to Home Depot to buy a new Wyze Video V2. I experienced the same problem like all other users. The door chime does not work with the chime control - basically no chime. I tried the alternative wiring of the chime control advised by the Wyze support in another thread, and the result produced loud vibration in the door chime, and I had to take the door chime control off. After I took the chime control off, everything works - only a light humming in the chime. I will check the chime and transformer tomorrow to see if they are hot.

My transformer is 16V 10 AV. They say it should be replaced with 16V 30 AV to power the smart doorbell and chime control. I will buy a new transformer tomorrow.

Shame on Wyze company to put everyone through the wild goose chase to get their cameras replaced only to find the new cameras don’t work! It wasted a lot of time and brainpower to figure out what was wrong with Wyze products.

2

Welcome to the Forum, @zoezhi2000! :wave:

I’ll start with my standard disclaimer: :warning::high_voltage:  I am not an electrician.  :high_voltage::warning:

This has not been my experience with Video Doorbell v2 since I resolved an issue that existed with my home’s built-in mechanical chime prior to my moving into this house. I’ve described this in multiple other Forum posts, including how I did my own testing to discover and remedy the issue. In brief, my issue was that…

  • the wire coming from the transformer that should have been attached to the chime’s TRANS terminal was instead attached to the chime’s FRONT terminal, and
  • the wire coming from the doorbell button’s location that should have been attached to the chime’s FRONT terminal was attached to the chime’s TRANS terminal.

This mis-wiring was apparently irrelevant with the “dumb” doorbell button that was installed before I moved in, but it makes a big difference to getting Chime Controller’s connections correct. Switching these two wires so that the correct wire from the transformer was connected to TRANS and the wire from the doorbell button’s location was attached to Chime Controller’s black wire completely resolved my chiming problem.

During troubleshooting, Wyze Support also had me try the alternate wiring instructions, and I also experienced a persistent buzz/hum from the chime while Chime Controller was connected that way. (This was before I figured out the wire swap problem myself.) When I reported that to Support, they said that was normal and expected when Chime Controller is wired that way. I didn’t like that answer, so I did my own troubleshooting and resolved the problem myself. Then I was able to return to using the standard wiring configuration for Chime Controller, and my Video Doorbell v2 and chime worked as expected after that.

Note that I didn’t swap the wires willy-nilly (which I’ve seen suggested without explanation). I did my own testing with a multimeter so that I could both measure voltages at various points and confirm continuity for the correct wiring so that I know precisely which wires run between which devices, and now all of those are correctly labeled for any future intervention. Because of my own experience with this, I tend to recommend that users have a multimeter (it’s helpful for all kinds of DIY stuff), understand how to use it, and do their own testing to be assured of the baseline circuit situation before (and sometimes after) making any changes.

If you have the capacity to do so, I’d measure voltage at both the transformer and at the doorbell button’s location with a multimeter. If you don’t have a multimeter, then I’d be inclined to purchase one of those before replacing the transformer. Even a very basic digital multimeter that can measure AC voltage and resistance/continuity (the two things you might want to measure while testing this system) is likely to cost less than a new transformer, and transformer replacement may not be necessary. Plus you’d have a new tool that you can use for other things.

I don’t think a transformer with a higher apparent power output is a terrible idea, but I’m not convinced that it’s necessary in this case or many others. I’ve been running my Video Doorbell v2 off my home’s existing transformer (16 V AC, 10 VA), and haven’t had any significant issues since I corrected the wiring. I measured AC voltage at the doorbell button wiring before I began my initial installation a couple of years ago, and I’ve measured there and at the transformer several times since then when troubleshooting or helping other users, and it’s consistently read in excess of 18 V for me.

That makes me wonder what changed with your Wi-Fi, and I suspect that’s where the problem is. For instance, if you have a new service and/or router and now use 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands with the same SSID and/or if you have your wireless security set to mixed-mode WPA2/WPA3, then those kinds of things can be problematic for a lot of IoT devices, not just older Wyze gear. If you still want to mess with your original Wyze Video Doorbell, then I’d suggest temporarily turning off all your router’s Wi-Fi radios except 2.4 GHz, setting your security for WPA2 only, turning off your phone’s mobile data, and ensuring that your phone is connected to your 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi prior to beginning Video Doorbell setup. There may be other problematic Wi-Fi settings to tweak on your router, but that’s probably where I’d start with a problem like that.

I am not aware of any evidence to support this assertion. I would expect any app-generated QR codes to be built on the fly during setup for older devices that require that step, and there are plenty of documented reasons why getting a Wyze camera to read a QR code can fail.

3

I see you are the forum moderator and I understand your perspective. However, my wiring was correct, not switched like yours. I searched online for solutions of my problem extensively, and I found it was very common issue that the Wyze Doorbell V2 chime controller not working with the transformer 16V 10 AV. The common symptom is with the chime controller in place, the chime does work (low current does not power the chime controller enough), but if you take the chime controller off, the chime works. The potential issue with the chime controller off would be hot chime and hot transformer because transformer is working on its full capacity. I would put it out there to save other people’s time and trouble to find solutions or blame ourselves for not getting it right.

4

I have multiple Wyze cameras on the same WIFI system. The newer cameras had no problem reading the QR codes on my phone, however, my Wyze doorbell and one other older camera were not able to read the QR codes. Those two cameras both were working before this event. I spoke to Wyze support and he told my doorbell camera was defective not being able to read the QR code, but I knew full well that my cameras were working just a few minutes ago.

5

My being one of the volunteers here doesn’t have any bearing on my perspective. I would’ve given the same response based on my experience alone, and I don’t believe that experience is entirely unique given what I’ve read from other Video Doorbell v2 users in my time here.

How did you test and confirm this? When I first installed my Video Doorbell v2 over two years ago (when I had significantly less experience with and understanding of these things), the only circuit testing I did prior to installation was checking the AC voltage across the wires where I removed the old “dumb” doorbell button to see that it was in the required 16-24 V range. I assumed that everything else had been installed correctly because that button worked with the in-place transformer and mechanical chime. I imagine a lot of users probably do the same thing, especially if things initially work as expected. Taking the time to do additional testing can be a bit of a chore and might require some degree of stubbornness persistence, but I personally feel more confident about understanding how my system is laid out and how it’s expected to work because of that additional work rather than just relying on a belief that—in my case with the pre-existing doorbell system—proved to be inaccurate.

For whatever reason (again, I’m not an electrician), my Video Doorbell v2 functioned as expected and actuated the chime for several months with the Chime Controller wired in its standard configuration. Then it got flaky and stopped unless I did something like hold in the doorbell button, but even that didn’t work 100% of the time. That’s when I reached out to Wyze Support, and they had me do some troubleshooting and eventually sent me a replacement Video Doorbell v2. While I waited for that to arrive, I decided to do my own continuity testing, and that’s how I discovered that the chime wiring was wrong before I ever started. It looked correct in the box, but I didn’t know which wires originated where until I actually traced and confirmed them, and I was able to do that with only a screwdriver, digital multimeter, and test lead. I fixed the wiring problem, reconnected Chime Controller in the standard way (the alternate wiring configuration buzz/hum drove me nuts, and I try to steer people away from doing that), and have observed that my system has worked reliably ever since.

I did set up the replacement Video Doorbell v2 and Chime Controller to confirm that those work, and then I put them back in the box and set that aside as a spare/backup. I have left my original Chime Controller in place—connected to my mechanical chime—even after swapping the Video Doorbell v2 for a Battery Video Doorbell, and that first Chime Controller is still working with my original (16 V AC, 10 VA) transformer. I don’t think the Chime Controller itself is the problem, because that has not been my experience, and I’m just sharing my experience here as other community members do with the hope that it can be helpful to others. I’m not attempting to assign blame to anyone. I’m saying that this is what has worked for me and so it may be worth trying.

I have also read about users resolving some doorbell issues by stepping up to a 16 V, 30 VA transformer, and I think that’s a solid idea, especially if the existing transformer is particularly old or if someone plans to power a second video doorbell in the same system. Wyze says repeatedly in their documentation that 16 V, 10 VA is their minimum recommendation, so I have no problem if someone wants to replace that with something else, and it’s something I considered doing when I was having problems with my own Video Doorbell v2 + Chime Controller + chime. I just found that replacement wasn’t necessary for me to resolve my issue, and I suspect that I would’ve continued to have problems even with a new transformer if I had unknowingly left my chime wired incorrectly. :man_shrugging:

If you do replace your transformer, then I sincerely hope that resolves your issue, and I’ll be interested to read about your success. :+1:

Regarding the QR code issue, I don’t use iOS/iPadOS, but I’ve read multiple reports here in the Forum where that can be an issue with the “Display Zoom” setting on the mobile device and getting some Wyze cameras to read it. Here’s one example:

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The other newer cameras read the QR codes from the same phone. These two older camera did not read the QR codes. There was nothing wrong with the phone or the older cameras. It was the QR codes probably had some updated feathers that older cameras were not able to read - therefore, we had to spend money to buy new cameras.

7

I h left the chime controller out of the chime box because it made terrible rattles with the alternative wiring suggested by the Wyze support. After two days. The door bell camera and chime work well with only light humming in the chime that I cannot detect easily. I touched the chime and transformer, not hot at all. So I would just go without chime controller.

8

I don’t buy replacement door bell v2 because if it does not work, I would change to another system like Blink which has 2 years of wireless battery life. I have Blink in my other house.

9

That’s essentially what I was describing above, which is why—again—I tend to recommend against using the alternate wiring scheme. When Wyze Support told me that the buzz/hum I was experiencing with that wiring configuration was normal, I decided that was not an acceptable answer for me, and that’s why I did my own investigation of the wiring in my home and discovered the real problem, which I then remediated to solve my issue (described above and elsewhere).

I believe that hum is present because the chime is still energized to some degree, and it’s possible for that to lead to sporadic unwanted behavior (noted below).

Some users do this, and you can find many describing doing just that here in the Forum. If that works for you and the Video Doorbell v2 is behaving as expected, then I imagine you’ll probably just leave it as-is, but I would continue to recommend confirming the wiring situation (because I think that’s potentially an issue) and installing Chime Controller for at least two reasons:

  1. One of Chime Controller’s purposes is to act as a fuse in the event of power surges. It’s there to protect the Video Doorbell v2 by helping to regulate power in the circuit.
  2. That power regulation should also eliminate the unintended chime hum. Some users of Wyze video doorbells who install them with working chimes but without Chime Controller will report buzzing, humming, and even phantom ringing from their chimes (i.e., the chime will sound even when no one has pressed the button), and I believe that’s because the chime remains partially energized without Chime Controller to help regulate current in the circuit and because motion in front of the camera can cause power fluctuations in the wiring to trigger the chime without Chime Controller in place to arrest that and intervene. This seems to be more of an issue with models like Duo Cam Doorbell and Battery Video Doorbell, and I imagine that’s largely because those don’t include Chime Controller in the package, which is one reason Chime Controller is available as a separate accessory purchase. In cases where that unwanted chime behavior is happening, installing Chime Controller seems to be the consensus solution, but that also relies on correct chime wiring.

If you’re not experiencing these annoying behaviors when Chime Controller isn’t installed (I have with Battery Video Doorbell), then I hope that continues. If you do notice these kinds of things, then I’d still advise confirmation of the circuit’s wiring and chime connections.

10

You repeatedly suggest chime wiring problem - and I repeatedly told you my wiring was correct. Chime wiring problem like yours is very rare - and don’t make it seem to be a common problem with everyone. It is very obvious that the chime controller has problem working with the low transformer, and please do not try to suggest other people’s chime wiring has a problem. Being a forum moderator should have ethical standards. Stop.

11

Yes, you have, but you haven’t said how you’ve determined that when I’ve offered input based on my own experience dealing with these things.

Given the number of reports I’ve seen regarding this particular problem, I believe it’s more common than you’re indicating, and “rare” is a relative term. As I noted, the backwards or swapped chime wiring doesn’t make a difference in doorbell circuit function when only a “dumb” doorbell button is being used, but when someone decides to install a smart video doorbell that has specific wiring and power requirements, ensuring that the wiring is correct is vital for proper functioning. What I advise is taking the necessary steps to ensure that the circuit is wired as expected rather than making assumptions that everything was connected correctly by a previous installer, as I believe the assumptions may not be correct and can lead to problems which complicate future troubleshooting efforts.

Again, that has not been my experience when the system is wired correctly.

12

Your persistence on misleading other people’s chime wiring problem makes me highly suspect your forum moderator is a pure “volunteer” position. Hope the company pays you well or your relatives well. People on this forum are not as dumb as you wish. Good night.

13

I searched many places online for a solution to no chime with the chime controller problem. Frankly I received very sensible answers from ChatGPT and other places than this Forum. Wyze Battery Video doorbell chime controller has better experience with the low transformer because the battery itself supplies power to run the camera, therefore more power left to run the chime controller. The V2 is a different story - the power from the transformer runs the camera, but not enough power left to run the chime controller, therefore, no chime with the controller in place.

14

The design of V2 doorbell controller is marginal when using 16V transformer, meaning not sufficient voltage to drive a 12V relay and a few components in series with it. These components are a 4.7 zener diode and a 3-legged 12V voltage regulator IC. All these components and the relay can be found inside the chime controller. A friend gave me a V2 last month and I had the same problem as you’d experience, no matter how many ways I tried in wirings, the results have been negative. As an electronic guy myself, Found a real easy solution from my study of the controller. I simply add a bare wire jumper (by soldering) on the diode with a “W7” marking, which is a 4.7V zener diode. This bypasses relay current to the relay and everything works since. My first post here, hope it helps some folks.

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