There is no Y terminal on the control board and I’m not sure how to connect the Wyze C-Wire adapter
It is hard to tell for sure, without another picture of where the wires on the left land on their control board. But, here is my best guess. Your thermostat Y (yellow) wire appears to come here, is wire-nutted to a red wire, which goes outside to your condensing units’ relay, bringing on the entire condensing unit anytime there is a call for cooling (this is fine). Then a white wire (common of relay) comes back and is wire nutted to the brown wire (common) of the indoor unit. Hence, you will need to wire any Y (yellow ) wire of the C-Wire adapter into the same wire-nut (the bottom one, with yellow/red). To be safer, be sure you go outside and shut any local disconnect at the condensing unit prior to doing so. Once in while, the power to a condensing unit comes from a different breaker. So, be safe and check.
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Thanks for your response! I could only add one pic initially but here is the control board. Does the C-wire adapter connect in between the thermostat and control board at the wire nuts? The control board does not have screw connectors. Would I connect the thermostat YWRG to the c-wire base and the c wire strands to control board and condenser wires? So R to R, G to G, W to W, Y to red condenser and C to Brown Common from control board.
That would be correct. In fact, that’s probably why the last contractor didn’t make connections at the control board, because he didn’t have and spade connectors. It’s quite common really to find them all connected with wire nuts. Your color schemes are correct also, as you stated above. (and FYI… R is hot, G is fan, W is heat, Y is cooling, C is common) You can see on the 2nd pic that Brown wires are spade connected to common (COM) on the main control board. So, you’re correct there as well.
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I used this exact diagram for mine with the same issue and the wyze thermostat just clicks no power on. Attaching pics of wiring.
I need more pictures- can you show a wider view? Specifically I’d need to see any splices or wirenuts, as well as a zoomed out view of the entire furnace wiring area.
My buddy is a HVAC guy and he put a C jumper in so I dont need the adapter anymore, and i still have no power up just clicking every 30 seconds or so
hmm could be a weak transformer, or a bad wire… have you checked the voltage at the thermostat between the red and blue wires?
my other thermostat works perfectly fine and my buddy checked all that with splicing the C wire at my air controller. This thing was sealed in the box so its not likely that someone messed with it. the Wyze app every time I try to get support tells me theres an error. All I know is either Wyze needs to support the product, or ill migrate my whole system to a different provider. I need reliability.
Your other thermostat isn’t likely adding a load to the transformer, it probably runs off of batteries. I’m not suggesting anyone messed with the thermostat, I’m suggesting that you might not have the proper voltage or current available at the thermostat to run the thermostat.
Using a different company’s smart thermostat is an option, if you think they will work any better without proper power. I’m just someone trying to help you get it set up, not affiliated with wyze.
the system was tested while my buddy was putting the C wire splice in. He is an HVAC tech. He said everything is working and thermostat should be powering up.
I dont want another thermostat because then I have to get a different subscription from a different provider, and I want everything on one deal. I did not say you worked for them, im saying if their system doesnt work I will find another
Don’t know what to tell you. Clicking on these thermostats generally indicates low current capacity or a bad return path (open C wire). The thermostat is trying to boot up, but the voltage is likely sagging below 20v and causing the thermostat to boot loop.
I noticed the transformer is only 24VA, and is powering the furnace board and the a/c contactor, so it is likely becoming overloaded with the addition of a smart thermostat. You might have better luck with a nest or similar smart thermostat that has a battery that can slow charge instead of running directly off of the transformer- or you can put a 40VA transformer in there to give the system more headroom. If you’ve got a steady 27-29VAC unloaded at the thermostat between the red and blue wires, it shouldn’t be bootlooping.