I blame my aging eyes 
Iâve never used it but I have a bunch of the Kasa smart plugs for my cams just to power cycle them but I also have some of the interior lights plugged into Kasa plugs for on off scheduling that works great.
Yeah the mesh systems are another approach. They just require a bit more toying with to get placed correctly, and even then certain devices like to âstickâ to an AP and not roam (which many of the mesh systems have overcome somewhat with kicking clients when their RSSI gets too low and sometimes even hiding one of the nodes from that client to force them to use a better one). They have gotten a lot better than they used to be.
I used to have 3 Ubiquiti APs and finally decided that a single good AP placed right gave me perfectly good coverage and less headaches. 802.11ax (and axe, and be) all support good variants of seamless roaming where the client and APs negotiate the best node, but unfortunately there are so few client device supporting it, it isnât very useful yet.
I havenât had a need to power cycle any of my cams. I have a rule that reboots them all once a week at like 3am. Guess Iâm lucky that they havenât had a hard freeze on me. Iâd be concerned with corrupting the SD card by hard power cycling them frequently.
I have not power cycled any of my cameras yet but I have the plugs just in case I need to . I have used the one Kasa plug for my WCO base station that goes offline about once every 5 months or so.
As I said, I have bunch of Kasa plugs and few lights. Some of them I control from the app for on/off purposes such as cameras. Some I have them on different schedules but.
I have a light at the cottage that I turn remotely when we get late at night. My daughter always forgets to turn it off when sheâs there with her boyfriend. Thanks to @Crease I just created an instance that if the light is on for 15 minutes to turn itself off. 
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Just so we are clear, even though my Eeros are WiFi 6 mesh devices I only have single node at both locations.
Fair enough. Anything is better than ISP stuff typically, but if youâre trying to reach something outside and far away without clear line of sight, itâs going to be hard to beat a good router/AP with external antennas. Obviously everyoneâs situation is different (how close the neighbors are and what your walls are made of particularly).
Right on, man! 
This is exactly why my brother-in-law wanted the switch on the exhaust fan.
6 GHz on newer mesh routers is for explicit connections between the two+ node. Most of us canât connect to it with any device, any IoT device or even our cell phones. (Iâve not heard of any cell phones that has the 6 GHz radio, so no connection to GHz is possible.)
In as few a words as I can, hereâs generally what you want to do to max your net and manage it. The IoT manufacturers pretty much design to only allow IoT to connect to 2.4
Your cameras, sensors, lights, switches, (this stuff) only connects to 2.4
Your TV, printer, game console, on 5 GHz, because its faster, though it has a more limited range. However the range doesnât cause a problem because this stuff is usually in side/closer to your router.
6 GHz is like a Superhighway to connect your mesh nodes. It lessens the 5 GHz and 2.4 GHz traffic from the connections between the nodes. Sometimes we put a node on 2nd floor and a node in the basement. Then connect TV to a node in basement and TV/game console to 2nd floor node. One could be the main router. But allowing the 6 GHz to maintain connections between nodes allows max speed for your 5 GHz and 2.4 device node to node/router. I hope that helps a little.
Could-a said, not wisest notion to turn off 6 GHz 98% of the time.
I have 40+ Wifi plugs, Wifi smart wall switches. I have a couple of them with local automations to simply turn them off regardless of their status, and some after midnight. Costs me a few minutes to set up.
I also have at least one Echo of some model in every room, hallway, two attics, the garage and even hidden in a portch light. I have wifi plugs on all of them. And all of them cycle off and on between 3 and 4 am every day. Why the echos? Most have âperson detectionâ and âno person detectionâ active. Yet, a flaw in these causes them to âgo numbâ and not respond. So, a reset of power fixes it or limits it to less than 24 hours. Just my thing, I guess.
Yup. My Echo Dot (I primarily use Google Home but have dabbled in Amazon Alexa) sometimes just goes plumb deef! Iâve been thinking I just throw a smart plug behind that but havenât quite gotten there yet.
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Hopefully this is a sign of progress:
The problem is, allegedly my Galaxy s23+ is able to connect to it. However it doesnât. It tries to but I end up with no Wi-Fi. So I had to turn it off so it would stop trying.
I have Kasa plugs on all my cameras except one, the outdoor box is too small to accommodate the plug and the power supply. Funny enough, all the cameras that are on a plug have been power cycled at least once out of necessity. The one not on a plug, never needed a power cycle. Murphyâs law I guess 
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This is a Wyze device only issue. Look on any online forum about wyze as well as reviews and youâll see this everywhere. Its cheap for a reason, they are garbage.
If it helps.
I have 6 V3 & 1 V2 Cams.
And all are connected to Kasa plugs & are scheduled to cut power for 1 minute & back on every night for all Cams.
That fixed the many times the Smart Detection stopped working properly.
For the future, you might want to look at a Sonoff Basic or Sonoff RFR2. This is an unusual form factor. Its sort of like a candy bar. You add male and female plugs from an extension cord to get the âendsâ. I like the RFR2, because it also includes a RF radio, so can use a generic 433 MHz remote.
You can also look at their version called a Mini or ZBMini. Its just about the diameter of a Quarter. Of course its thicker. The ZBMini is so simple, but it also requires the ZigBee Bridge, and that doubles its price. The regular Mini is WiFi only.
All these have the Schedule, automation, Alexa/Google, app control features
Following up from my previous post 
, I see that this dropped today:
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It is probably an authentication issue, 6ghz is probably locked to WPA3 strict where 5 and 2.4 are probably in WPA3/2 compatibility mode. So if your phone joined using WPA2 it wonât be able to use 6ghz. Unfortunately Xfinity has locked those devices down so it is hard to see and impossible to change the settings.
Disabling everything except 6ghz and âforgettingâ the network in your phone, then re-joining, may make it use WPA3 and work on all 3 bands. But you might have to go as far as setting a different SSID for the 6ghz band (if they allow that) so the phone can use different auth methods for it.
But as @Sam_Bam said the 6ghz is generally only used for dedicated backhaul between nodes (which is an odd choice since its range is very limited). If your phone doesnât need to do multiple gigs (it doesnât) there is no reason to use 6ghz, it will use more battery for nothing. And if I may put on my tin foil hat for a bit, the higher the frequency, the more effect it has on cells in your body.
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