Recently a person came to our garage at 5 in the morning and took away a tricycle This spot was not covered by just one camera, there was a V3 camera pointing straight at the tricycle and a V2 camera that was pointing at the path he had to walk to get to the tricycle. Both cameras had a microsd card. Both were set to record continuosly and both were set to transmit events to the wyze cloud if only the first 8s. However, the one camera overlooking the path stopped writing to the microsd card back in early june and there was no notification about it. It did not register the person (which was square in front of it, moving towards and away from it) and it also did not send a clip online. So this camera was useless for this event. The other camera, was completely blurry because of the light conditions, it did record something but not enough to identify the person, it did also not upload a recording but at least that one was recording to the microSD drive. In this instance I am feeling the impotence and anger that comes when something that belongs to you is taken away from you without right, and I would like to request Wyze to please make the detection/reporting on whether a camera has a microsd and if it is in working condition easier and better. Only one thing is worse than having no camera to see who stole something, and that is having a camera pointed exactly at where the thing happened and it not working.

[image] p2788deal: The cameras lose connections and don’t necessarily reboot. The internal time is still valid and yet the clip still gets the wrong time. I’m only referring to the ones that do reboot after 30 mins (supposedly), that’s what the conversation was about. [image] p2788deal: The battery isn’t needed as long as it doesn’t lose power. And it doesn’t. Even if it does a reboot. Lots of devices hard bounce the power when they reboot and thus reset the clock. Just about anything that runs on Linux follows this behavior and I’m guessing these cams run some very lite flavor of Linux. You can observe the same behavior on most home routers if you have access to the log, soft reboot it and you’ll see the date and time in the logs goes back to way in the past after reboot, then NTP sets it.

[image] ssummerlin: Is this the Reolinks forum? :rofl: Well honestly I have had no need to find out even if there is a forum for Reolink :joy: I have had no issues at all so no need to go to a forum… On the Wyze front however the saga continues of cam issues and failures :rofl: Another camera ate a SD card recently, went to review some continuous recording and found out it said I have no SD card… Eventually I will go get the card and see if it is dead or just needs reformatting. edit: Reformatting with Laptop fixed the corrupted by Wyze V3 SD card :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: But as it goes with Wyze cams I wanted to review something and of course now that I wanted video off SD it failed, Glad it wasn’t guarding my tricycle :joy:

From my testing, there are no authentication required for microSD recording especially for wired cameras. As long as you have power, then it will record to the microSD, but getting it to record into the “correct” folder is another matter. I managed to keep my V3 recording properly even after I blocked it from the internet by setting up a local NTP server + NTP intercept (worked after with power cycle as well). As far as I know the only cameras which exhibit the “OG behaviour” (after 30 minute internet outage, the camera will automatically restart itself and then it starts recording into wrong folder with incorrect timestamp since it can’t connect to a NTP server to sync) are: Cam OG Cam V3 (with July 2024 FW 4.36.13.0416) Cam V3 Pro (with July 2024 FW 4.58.13.0416) Cam Pan V2 (with July 2024 FW 4.49.13.0416 or newer) I don’t know if Cam V1, Cam V2, Cam V4, Cam Pan V1 or Cam Pan V3 have the same issue. Having said that, I suspect the older cameras (V1, V2, CPV1) might not this “OG behaviour” as it seems like a recent change with the July 2024 firmware for the impacted cameras. In my experience, corrupted micro SD usually happens due to insufficient power to the camera like voltage dropping too low when using very long USB cables or defective power adapter. This is of course assuming the microSD is fine. Another scenario where this happens is power surge / power outage causing the camera to corrupt the recordings and the internal controller locking it up from further writes to the SD card (more rare). I was previously running a 33 feet USB cable setup to power a V3 camera and it started acting weird. It will record fine for a few days and then it stops recording and I get “No video at the selected time” when I try to playback my SD recordings. The camera itself still functions fine except for recording (detection, siren, live view, & everything else still works). It is only until after restarting the camera does it start to record again, but then it stops after 2 to 3 days. In the end, I finally figured out it was my long 33 feet USB cable was causing the voltage to drop too low at a specific outdoor temperature (mainly on a sunny afternoon) so I used a separate 5V 2A power adapter plugged into an outdoor socket to fix it.

I recall some discussions here about people wanting to use them as dash cams in their car or something and people saying you’d have to connect them to hotspot every now and then to authenticate. I don’t remember the specifics. Maybe they just weren’t noticing that it was recording, but to the wrong folder. For your voltage drop issue, keep in mind the more powerful adapter will still experience voltage drop across that length of cable, but the overall wattage should now be higher. The cam may have actually started to burn out the previous adapter by constantly trying to draw too much current to overcome the lower voltage. If you have the option, running a higher gauge USB cable (even if you use a coupler and smaller gauge at one or both ends) should yield less drop. Of course, bumping the voltage is another option but since there is no USB supply over 5V (at least without USB-C PD), you’d be splicing USB cables and measuring to make sure it wasn’t over 5V at the cam, probably excessive. If the cam is working now without any issues, worst case have to buy a new adapter from time to time or possibly a new cam. Just hopefully not when you need some footage off it :slight_smile: Or maybe I’m misunderstanding what you said and you eliminated the 30 foot cable by plugging it into a closer outlet instead.

[image] dave27: I recall some discussions here about people wanting to use them as dash cams in their car or something and people saying you’d have to connect them to hotspot every now and then to authenticate. I don’t remember the specifics. Maybe they just weren’t noticing that it was recording, but to the wrong folder. I believe that was @K6CCC who tested V2, V3, V3 Pro and V4 on his truck (here). I had brought up that the 30 minute internet outage issue which was actually introduced in beta firmware 4.36.12.9357 for Cam V3. In that linked thread I was able to recreate the issue every single time on my V3 and I did the same test again with 4.36.11.8391 to compare. At the time I mistakenly thought the cameras required online authentication from Wyze to record properly. Anyhow, I brought this up with Wyze multiple times at various stages of different beta firmwares, but they still went ahead and released it to the public anyways. [image] dave27: The cam may have actually started to burn out the previous adapter by constantly trying to draw too much current to overcome the lower voltage. If you have the option, running a higher gauge USB cable (even if you use a coupler and smaller gauge at one or both ends) should yield less drop. That is very likely the case. My old setup was plugging a 33 feet USB cable into my old Floodlight V1 USB auxiliary port and it worked for ~1.5 years. Luckily I had a outdoor socket right below my Floodlight so I just used a more powerful adapter to provide a little more juice to account for the voltage loss and reused the 33 feet USB cable. I really didn’t want to mount a new cable. I could use have an extension cable, but it would have looked ugly mounting that with the power adapter.

[image] bryonhu: I have had no issues at all so no need to go to a forum… Where is the fun in that? At least you can always come here.

He has no problem with Reolink cameras. He does have problems with Wyze cameras. So do many people here. And they come here trying to find solutions. I wonder if that’s also his motivation?

[image] ssummerlin: Where is the fun in that? At least you can always come here. [image] p2788deal: He has no problem with Reolink cameras. [image]New User - Problems :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:No problems = No posts :man_shrugging:

[image]New User - Problems :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:No problems = No posts That equation doesn’t work with me. Guess I am here to watch the suffering? Hence, another post.

[image] ssummerlin: Guess I am here to watch the suffering? [image]Word of the Day [image]Word of the Day schadenfreude :grin:

Wyze camera vs tricycle stealer

Cameras

ssummerlin August 18, 2024, 9:09pm 31

That equation doesn’t work with me.

Guess I am here to watch the suffering?

Hence, another post.

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Wyze camera vs tricycle stealer

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