Thank you very much for your response.
I’m trying to eliminate the rented modem and go back to owing my own. I was hoping to get some suggestions on modem brand and models based on my ISP, Suddenlink and speeds of 1 gig.
I agree. That’s what I said! You shouldn’t have to pay someone like me $250/hr to make your network work.
Thank you for your help.
My 3.1 modem I have now is a Motorola model #MB8600.
Link: MOTOROLA MB8600 DOCSIS 3.1 Amazon.com
Their modem I am renting is an Aris resellers version model # DG3270
Of course my Motorola Modem is just sitting there while I rent their Aris. I have a Nighthawk 1900 router.
All help is greatly appreciated.
Before you buy you have to make sure your internet provider is willing to walk you through the steps. It’s not simple plug and play as far as I know. My last cable modem, was a new install so I ask the technician to set it up for me. Fortunately he didn’t balk. He had some issues at first but got it to work.
I currently have att fiber and was hoping to buy the modem but no dice.
“Should work” - is assuming there are no basic physical laws and limitations to consider.
“RF” - in general - is very complex. Ask any cellular operator. RF planning (providing the very best coverage and service for a given area) is equal parts skills, knowledge, experience, and science. And a double dose of black magic on top.
Just because WiFi has become so ubiquitous and “connectivity” almost an essential utility these days, does not mean the basics about RF propagation and coverage has been blown out the water. Basic physics still apply.
Same with that 1 Gbps pipe that enters and leave your house. There is some amazing optical knowledge (essentially twisting light) that makes your connectivity fast, reliable and (relatively) inexpensive. It is just a bit higher up the chain and you will never see the fiber nodes (now not talking about FTTH or FTTC but equipment that aggregates services onto a fiber that maybe supports 400 GBps over distances).
Same at home, your WiFi router (or really your Access Point AND Router) aggregates RF streams from different devices and sends them up an ethernet link. This is after it had to deal with the pesky and unknown environment where radio waves fight physical barriers - and each other
Fire away. Interested in your thoughts
I’ve have no problem setting up…it‘a close to plug and play. However, I do have to call them with my MAC address for them to activate and associate it with my account.
The issue I have is that the Wyze cam setup requires an app communicating, for some strange reason, on the 2.4Gh spectrum and not the 5Gh. My Netgear Orbi mesh does not allow you to separate the two as it wants to control the traffic (I am seeing this more and more in the newer systems out there). The Netgear is amazing (threw my Asus out the window at another home after realizing how much better the Netgear was) and provides a wonderful experience, and my other IoT devices that are all 2.4Gb based have no setup issues, just the Wyze cams that are a problem.
To get the Wyze cams to connect for the first time I use a Anker power block and walk away from the house so I am out of the 5Gh spectrum signal, connect it, and then return to the house. Once the connection has been made everything is golden and there are no further issues. Just wish Wyze had a better way of doing the setup.
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Cable is pretty straight forward. You simply provide a MAC address, and that’s typically it. AT&T doesn’t do cable and their shit is dumb. It’s not that simple at all.
This is called band steering. The idea is that the router drives you to the 5 GHz where there’s more available bandwidth (but less signal propagation) and will push you to 2.4 where there’s more congestion but better distance as you roam away from the APs.
Thanks @russ_hanneman for the terminology. Unfortunately it doesn’t help with configuration issues of setting up a new camera.
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I think the wyze came is only compatible with 2.4ghz. at least that’s what it said in the instructions… unless one of the firmware updates has added compatibility for 5ghz. I love wyzecam though. I’m going to try out one of these outdoor ones. I think I’m going to order some of the door sensors too.
Anybody have any experience using their door sensors and would care to share?
What are the best wifi modem rf/mesh?
Can some support 2 providers? I have att uverse and plan to use common network.
I use the guest network too but I notice it seems I can not have more than 15 iot on guest on att uverse modem
I saw
- Netgear orbi
- tplink déco
IMHO, routers are getting too much of the blame. I own an old Netgear N AC1200 router and it works fine with Wyze Cams. As of the moment I have 4 Wyze cams and 2 Yi 1080P Home cams online. Live viewing is “downloaded” to your router at 10 - 300 KB/s depending on the camera. This is not asking much from the router. Even slow upload speeds from the router to the “Cloud” should be fine unless you have something else on the system that is using up a lot of “upload” bandwidth.
If you haven’t already done so, download a “WiFi Analyzer” app from the App store and check the WiFi signal strength at each camera location
My cameras work fine if there is even a moderate signal.
I don’t think that’s necessarily true at all. I just replaced my mid-grade router at home with an enterprise level router and all 10 of my Hikvision cameras and three Wyze cams stopped dropping. Packet congestion is a real thing on routers that aren’t made to handle it. In a connected world people have more IoT devices on their LAN than ever and the same [mod edit] old routers.
MOD NOTE: Post edited to conform to the Community Guidelines.
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Tell us about your home network? How many devices? How many on 5 GHz and how many on 2.4 GHz? I’d recommend these APs. I have five of these: Amazon.com I’d want to understand your situation a bit before I’d recommend a router as it makes that much difference.
Just a heads up, you will need a Wi-Fi controller installed somewhere. You can use any Windows PC if you choose to install the controller software; however, a dedicated box would be much better.
"10 days late"r and a lot of money. I have 2 TVs, 2 ROKUs, 3 laptops, 2 Yi 1080p Home cams, 2 Wyze V2s, 1 Pancam, and two printers. My router is an old NETGEAR dual band AC1200. Every thing is working fine at the moment. The one thing that may be above average is my internet provider gives me ~95 Mbps download and ~12 Mbps upload.
Remember, your Wyze Cams are uploading video to the cloud. What else do you have using uploads?
Most of the time it’s just the cameras uploading video with occasional computer commands and requests.
So, I still stand by my statement. It’s probably not the router unless the router settings are wrong.
Check your “Upload” speeds. https://www.speedtest.net/
I found this Wirecutter article useful.
Is that what you pay for, what you get, or both? You’re right about upload. Most people don’t realize that your upload is FAR more important than download on IP Cams. They also don’t realize that a full HD stream can easily consume it. Also, sometimes you don’t realize how bad “fine” is until you have better.