A bit of “Blink” solar panel mounting recent experience to share. BTW - why “Blink” panels? They have a plain USB micro b connector, that works fine with the Wyze cams in aftermarket housings. Many of the other ‘dedicated’ solar panels have brand specific weatherized rubbery USB micro b seal connections.
My house happens to be oriented about 15 degrees away from a true North-South. If I mount the panel in a typical vertical orientation (as shown) on the south side, I have mostly full up & down tilt capability to aim the the panel at the 45 degree angle up - which is ideal for my latitude in Austin,Texas; but mounted on that south eave, that will be 15 degrees away from the ideal true south direction.
If I mount one the east side of my house, I need to mount the thing in a horizontal orientation, and have the mounting twisted to a 45 degree angle from true horizontal to get the 45 degree angle up - but the cardinal (compass) direction will still be limited by the battery box.
On the West side of the house, I can get true South and 45 degrees up (once again, because of the battery box interference, but not interfering, - on the west side, so not as bad). Getting that canted angle to the panel mounting isn’t easy, especially up on a ladder, and especially if you’re a 3/4 century seasoned citizen, a bit wobbly on ladders. If my kids were visiting when doing this, they be even more active in discussing putting me away into an assisted living facility.
Also, canted both ways, it looks extra ugly, seeming mounted by monkeys, any old way.
I’m a retired engineer, so I like to do quick & dirty spreadsheet analysis on these things.
For the various solar panels out there, the 2nd 18650 battery in these panels makes all the difference. With 5,000+ mAh of battery storage power, not having the perfect solar angle for maximum daytime battery charging is far outweighed by the 2nd battery. Under normal usage, those batteries will be 100% every night when the sun goes down.
These panels, at perfect angle, charge at a rate of 0.6 mA (600mAh)… which is what these cameras draw at maximum night time operation, I figured about 4 hours a day at near maximum charging, (which is 2,400 mAh). Of course, as we get further away from mid-day optimum charging, the charge eventually withers down to nothing; but surely there will be well more than 3,000 mAh of charging on a good sunny summer day.
With I/R LEDs on, and wifi transmission going, lots of motion activity going on at midnight… my spreadsheet estimated that a typical extra busy night - perhaps a police emergency right in front of my house, the reserve power in the solar panel batteries would get a tiny drop from the day’s charging. Normal days, there’s more than enough to go into the night with a full 5,000 mAh battery charge.
Can’t quite get 100% efficiency, even mounting these things at crazy, wife hating, angles? Not a problem! At least not here (and I do live alone). If I lived above the Arctic Circle, I’d need a generator to keep these things going.
The second 18650 battery in these panels makes all the difference in choosing a solar panel to run Wyze cams (or Blinks, or whatever) on solar power.
My two Reolink outdoor cameras are very nice, excellent quality, but their internal batteries only have the equivalent of one 18650 battery (2500-3000 mAh) … which is enough for a normal overnight, with some reserve power to spare, on a nothing special night. BUT, if there are zombies traipsing through your yards all night, the ReolInk cameras won’t make it through the night. My Wyze (and maybe the Blinks) will.
One advantage with the Reolinks during a zombie invasion, it’s easy enough to run out and disconnect/pull the solar panel cable, and plug in a USB power bank. I keep some 5,000 to 25,000 mAh USB power Banks handy, just for such an event.