I’m not sure about the adapter. Seems it wouldn’t help me with my 2-wire furnace, but I don’t remember why.
What I did was power my Wyze thermostat with two wires from a simple doorbell transformer, and then I connected the two wires from my furnace to the thermostat. Easy peasy, and it’s been working for a couple of years now without issue – even with countless power outages.
It automatically comes back online after a power outage, assuming your wifi and internet also are online. In addition, it will run whatever schedule you have set if the internet goes out, but the power stays on.
I tried installing my new Wyze Thermostat, got it all installed using tips from here and when I turn up to trigger the furnace, I get nothing. I have a 2 wire battery powered Thermostat currently in my apartment. On that Thermostat its wired to W and R. I purchased a 24vac power supply wsll plug like shown in the link in the first post of this topic. I wired power to C and RC, R to Rh and W to W. Ran the setup in the app. When asked what fuel my system uses, I chose gas (obviously natural gas) and when it asked what type of heat, I selected water. I completed the process and let it update. I let it settle for a bit then tried turning up the heat to see if the furnace would kick in. Nothing. I thought to test if theres any power on the thermostat wires from the furnace and read 28.4vac. I decided to see if the Wyze Thermostat connections W and Rh was maybe opening and closing on relay. I put my tester to continuity and got continuity. My tester beeped a solid steady beep. Heat on or off makes no difference. I decided to test if theres a charge between those two contacts and got a roughly 2.87mv charge. I thought why not see if the power thats on the Thermostat wires could power the Wyze Thermostat. I wired one to C, the other to Rc and nothing. It didn’t power up the Wyze Thermostat. I’m now very stumped. I thought these wifi thermostats were just computer controlled relays that open and close circuits. I’m also wondering what exactly is the furnace type of my place. I’ve taken some pictures.
In the 3rd picture you see a brown coated wire with a white and black core wires. These are the opposite end of the 2 (R and W) in my apartment. Hope someone can help figure it out.
If you connect r and W at your thermostat, does the heat turn on? If you live in an apartment, it’s possible the main power to the boiler is off during the summer.
The furnace is on all year round hear. And no, as I outlined earlier, W to W, R to R and power supply to RC and C. Nothing happens at the furnace. Thermostat powers up just fine with the wall adapter, but no action at the furnace. If I short W to R, my furnace starts up. Gas opens, igniter sparks, fan kicks in and the valve for the zone triggered by it’s corresponding thermostat opens to allow hot water to circulate the radiator loop. There are 4 zones, each a loop. Mine is Zone C.
hmm. when you set up the wyze thermostat, did you tell it that your old thermostat has the following wires?:
Rh, Rc, C, W
Have a Taco SR502 controller for a boiler with two zones. Trying to install Wyze Smart thermostat on one of the two zones. Existing battery powered thermostat only has two wires from the controller. W and Rh on the thermostat are connected to one zone of the controller.
Com is C
24vac is Rc
Make sure to tell your wyze app that your old thermostat has the following wires:
Rc, C, Rh, W
Finally got around to installing the thermostat this morning. Zone was working prior to install. Completed setup (did have an error regarding wireless network, but was able to connect to it via phone app after setup). The zone (zone 1) is constantly indicating ON (on the Taco SR502) when the thermostat is plugged into the wall mount and is running the circulating pump, but no heat regardless of thermostat indicating it’s calling for heat. Additionally, the other zone (zone 2) in the house doesn’t work when the Wyze thermostat is plugged into the wall mount. The zone 2 indication on the Taco SR502 does go OFF/ON as heat is requested by the other (non-Wyze) thermostat for that zone, but it also does NOT result in the boiler firing.
If I power down the system and then remove the Wyze thermostat from the wall mount and then power back on without the Wyze thermostat, the zone 2 thermostat heat demand will result in the boiler firing and heating that zone.
Any thoughts for why I can’t get any heat out of either zone when the Wyze thermostat is connected?
Can only post one image per post since a newer user, so here is photo of SR502 with added wires to the 24VAC (blue/yellow shown in previous post). Also, this photo was taken with both the Wyze thermostat plugged into wall mount and zone 2 calling for heat (note the two red LEDs illuminated on the right side of the board indicating both zones are “ON”, even though boiler not firing).
it sounds like your zone control is expecting dry contacts and not 24VAC on the contacts. You need a isolation relay to make it work. see this diagram:
You wouldn’t need the external transformer as you have Rc and C on your zone control, but you do need a 24 VAC isolation relay.
something like this Amazon.com: OONO DPST 1NO 1NC 8Amp Power Relay Module, AC/DC 24V Control Voltage : Industrial & Scientific
or this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XS148C/
would work.
To verify that this is the problem and that the transformer on the zone control board isn’t just being overloaded, try disconnecting W1 and Rh from the thermostat and power it up. It should turn the thermostat on but it shouldn’t be able to control anything, and it should also not prevent your other zone from calling for heat.
If you power up the thermostat with W1 and Rh disconnected and your other zone still does not work, then you need an external transformer to power the thermostat.
