you may even print it across 2 pages and not go somewhere to get it enlarged. Then tape together. At that distance, it seems to be more forgiving. Mine is not fully black and it copied the folds. 
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I literally am doing this exact method tomorrow, just waiting for the unit to arrive. Already did the solder job on the garage remote. Happened to google wyze garage controller hack and found this. Great minds think alike?
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Wyze may want to do what Tailwind has done…market an already hacked (prewired by Tailwind) opener for the Chamberlain devices. I bought one for $50. I am ok with soldering but it wasn’t worth it for me to do it at the Tailwind price. For this reason, I stuck with the Tailwind and just have a v3 looking at the garage from a tall shelf.
Finally got the opener. Failed at QR code validation. I know the leads from the remote work, because if you short them the garage opens.
That’s all the two wires from the opener do, correct, it completes the circuit? I’m at a loss why this doesn’t work. I thought I was being clever. Maybe not.
Get an “Operation failed” message when I click (in the app) to open the door.
Of course the camera was DOA out of the box so I wonder if something is squirrelly with the opener part as well.
IMHO, Wyze could make a GDC by using only contacts. Of course, you’re then dealing with battery life, but it still seems as though it could be a more simply solution than using an entire camera (which we all love). Just a door sensor could work - if I can already receive notifications for an open door / window. Why add the expense of the camera? Could you not create the “receiver” side to wire to the existing GDO? Granted, there’s the design expense vs using a camera - but it seems it could be at least equally reliable.
This issue sounds like the interval for inching is too high. Try about .5 seconds (is my suggestion).
Sonoff also makes a Sonoff Wifi Switch, USB DC5V Wireless Relay Module Switch (Voice Control with Alexa Google, etc.)
This uses a 5V DC power supply and can be easily configured to close the relay for 0.5 second, thereby triggering a push button event on your door. I attached this directly to my door opener and it works like a charm - very simple - no hacks required. Only US$ 13.59 each on Amazon.
See: https://www.amazon.com/Sonoff-Wireless-Automation-Modules-Control/dp/B07FJ77MZ9
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Any idea which spots I should solder on this remote’s circuit board?
The two round buttons on the bottom of the right picture are what the remote’s button’s press in, but they don’t line up to terminals on the back (first photo) since there is nothing on the bottom. Anyone know, or have a suggestion of how to test it?
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Which ever button works the garage door, I would solder on to the ones where I put the arrows, but on the back side.
But before Soldering, I would test it by stripping one wire so each end of the wire has an exposed iend. Then Touch the spots marked with the arrows to see if it triggers the garage door to open or close
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Once you do the “short out” test suggested by spamoni4, you could just solder to the posts on the “front” side (Right photo)
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I agree with @spamoni. Try those two. If the “touch” test does not work, try the other side.
Remember, just like you would use the remote, don’t attach wires and leave them there. This is a momentary switch, so it just a single press and let up, So, with your shorting wire, just a quick touch on the second wire/side of the switch Don’t leave it there. Might mess up the remote permanently.
I have the Yellow (or as we like to call it yal-ler button in Al-er-Bama). I picked up to spare cheap remotes on Amazon for $10 each. Worked better than the Craftsman that came with the GDO.
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one Wyze controller wire goes to one of the remote controls pushbutton; the other Wyze controller wire goes to the other remote controls pushbutton. Makes no difference which color goes to which post, there is no polarity issue,
Finally got around to setting one of these up on an “Incompatible” Liftmaster Garage Door (yelllow learning button) by soldering wires to a remote control as explained in here. It works! Thank you to everyone who contributed (particularly @R.Good … he knows why).
And, since I have everything so far away from the Garage door opener (not plugged into it like most people), there is no signal interference even though I am using a regular V3 instead of one of the shielded rounded pigtail V3’s. Pretty cool.
I started with a QR code that is 2 pages wide (132% of the original), but it still had trouble calibrating from the back corner of my garage (particularly at night in the dark with just the IR or even with the lights on…I think there were glare/overexposure issues). I had to move my camera up significantly (to almost halfway) for it to recognize the code.
I am tempted to print a new QR code at 198% (4 pages) and see if that makes a difference…maybe put it a little closer to the middle of the door this time. After that I might try 394% (6 pages) and see if that is sufficient to calibrate from the back corner.
I’m in the middle of reorganizing my entire garage, so there is stuff all over the garage floor right now, but here is how it is currently with a QR code at 132% (2 pages). I am not sure I can go any bigger than 4 pages (198%) since the garage door sections are fairly small, and when I have a car in there, I will need to keep it on one of the higher sections:
I’ll have to play around with the Camera location and QR code size a little more to see how far back I can legitimately get this to go.
Regardless, very cool that we can wire it to a remote control to use this on the “incompatible” Liftmaster garages! I’m grateful to everyone who figured this out. It is a great option.
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Yo Welcome, lol
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Yup, worked here. Had same issue with different flavour controller couple years ago.
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BRILLIANT HACK love it
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Apologies, off topic here. But how did you scale that QR code that big. Need to do that with my garage opener.
Went to the FedEx store and have them scale it proportionally.
Thank you for this hack. I planned on helping a buddy out and was going to hardwire the controller to the wall switch on the wall. This is a bit quicker and keeps the controller near the garage door opener. Hardwiring to the wall switch requires similar identification of right solder joint and may even be more difficult. I had to use a diagram to find the right place when I hacked my wall switch to use with a competitor’s controller. Hacking the remote controller was awesome since it only took 15 mins. If I was patient, I would have got a nice case mount DC female adapter so it really did not change the look of the remote door opener. Here is my quick hack. Ignore the glitter that my wife left on the glue gun…guess I should have looked
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