A USB female with a 120 vac pigtail would fill a lot of holes where customers want to mount their CAM on or near their floodlight. This device could be inside the floodlight housing and a short usb cable could be run to a nearby Wyze Cam.
Not sure how the pigtail would fix anything. Wyze cameras are only 5volts (I think) so 120 VAC would fry them.
The USB power source provided now has a 120 vac plug with prongs. At least the ones I use do. I would love to see a USB block with a 120 vac pigtail instead of prongs. The voltage is stepped down from 120 vac to the 5 vdc. How did you think that worked?
I too am puzzled by what the heck you mean. Since as you know there needs to be transformer circuitry somewhere, where exactly do you envision it with this “pigtail” and what would be accomplished that could not be done with a simple short AC extension cord for the existing adapter?
Just as you describe, with a transformer. Also, the floodlight has a connection for a second camera. Or do you mean a non-Wyze floodlight?
I used a flood light as an example. There are many locations that have 120 volts available but not a receptacle. Someone may already have a floodlight or porch light or surface mounted wall light and would like to use a Wyze camera in that location without running an extension cord or usb cable along their wall or ceiling. I do know that I could take a usb converter apart and make my own and put it inside the light fixture enclosure. I still think it would be a good idea along with a ROKU App and a Windows App and a Apple TV App and a Samsung TV app. It would also be nice to make a Wyze relay input that could be energized by a contact closure on an existing alarm system and drop the alarm monitoring service and use the Wyze services.
Okay, still no idea what you’re talking about. Do you mean a piece of AC grade wire with exposed bare metal ends and an inline covered 5V USB transformer along its length, followed by a USB cable portion?
You know electrical codes exist for a reason, right? If you want to do this you really need to install an electrical box to make the splices.
Not sure that would be a good idea. I saw an online post where someone gave instructions on doing that but was warned of the fire danger and the likelihood that any fire caused by it wouldn’t be covered by insurance.
Bless you hearts and have a great day.
Instead of cursing us bogus Southern style, how about explaining what you actually meant? Clearly your point has failed to come across. Maybe a picture of your concept or a pointer to a similar existing product? We are trying to take you seriously. Maybe you have a good product idea that needs better expression.
On the other hand, if you have realized your idea is not a good one, then be a grown up and say so.
What he’s asking about is an inline power supply. Think about what laptop computer frequently have. Either without the AC plug or cut the plug off and wire it directly into a electrical junction box.
As @Customer said, probably not code and equally problematic, potential fire hazard.
Is it though? I’m the one who brought up an electrical box. He or she never said what they were talking about, except for the incessant use of the word “pigtail”.
This could be what you want:
I bought one of those and mounted it inside my light fixture and it worked for about 6 months then died. I ended up just using a Wyze power brick with a pigtail plug wired into the light fixture mounted in the junction box for the fixture.People on the user groups flamed me saying it was a fire hazard , etc…
I have a camera that’s near an outdoor light and I used a bulb socket adapter with the standard USB adapter:
It’s all the way inside the fixture so you can’t really see it and it isn’t exposed to water. It’s been working for several years.
We did that as well at the neighbors house, going on 4 years