My palm lock has lost the ability to retract the bolt even when the door is ajar and has no friction from the strike plate. The battery is at 63%. Any suggestions?
Welcome to the Forum, @mphillips1973! 
What has Wyze Support said when you contacted them? Are you able to actuate the bolt latch manually with the interior assembly knob?
Yes, i can move the lock freely from the inside. I just removed the interior cover and lubricated with spray silicone. When using the app, it takes 3 to 5 tries to unlock the door. Each time it moves the interior dial counter clockwise ever so slightly each time until finally it unlocks. I have also slightly loosened the interior screws holding the inside part of the unit on to counter any binding with no luck. I am now waiting for the bettery to fully charge to 100% before trying again. I have also recalibrated the unit with no luck. The locking feature works fine but the unlock feature is where the problem lies. I have not contacted support yet as the unit was a gift and I am waiting on a receipt in case it needs to be replaced.
Does it seem like a mechanical problem then? That’s what I’m trying to understand.
By the way, I really appreciated this remark in your initial post:
External friction (from the jam strike) was my first thought when I saw the topic title, so I’m glad you’re ruling that out. 
Other things I’m wondering about would be unlocking with a palm vein scan or the keypad. Does either of those unlocking methods retract the bolt as expected?
Since you’ve already pulled the main battery to get a full charge on that, you can also try removing the backup battery in order to force a reboot on the lock in case something has gone wonky with its internal electronics and needs a cold start. I find that using a small piece of paperclip wire is helpful for this. You just bend the tip into a partial “J” and stick that in the hole above the backup battery to snag the edge and pull the battery out. That should remove all power from the device, and it’s something I’ve done on a few occasions when I’ve had connectivity issues and needed to force a reboot.
When you do have a full charge on the main battery and want to try again, I’d check the firmware and see if that’s current. I’d also probably go ahead and contact Support, especially if you think this is a mechanical fault, just to get the ball rolling in case they want to replace it. They’ll probably want receipt/order information, so it’s good that you’re planning ahead, but it wouldn’t hurt to begin that conversation. (I say that because I usually create e-mail tickets when I need to contact them, so I already anticipate that as being a several-day process. If you’re planning to use live chat or phone, then I understand waiting on the receipt.)
Yep, I have pulled the backup battey and also done a recalibration with no change. It seems to me the motor as lost the power to turn the knob. Firmware is current. I’ll report back if the full charge helps.