Bonjour, hardware failure for my WiFi power supply led to a long weekend with no internet. New router with same name and pass - can’t reconnect to doorbell.
Doorbell button is flashing orange, attempting to connect via the Wyze android app (newest version confirmed) gets stuck on the 1st step of the process.
Went to breaker box and power cycled doorbell, still no change. What am I doing wrong?
Welcome to the Forum, @JustSomeCoffee! 
Are you using dual- or tri-band Wi-Fi with your new router, and is your phone connected to your router’s 2.4 GHz band/SSID? Often when I’ve had IoT devices give me troubles when trying to connect/setup, it’s been because I’m using a gateway/router/access point that has 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz Wi-Fi bands configured with the same SSID. The least frustrating course of action in my experience has been to log into the router and temporarily disable the 5 GHz radio while I’m attempting to add the IoT device. This forces my phone to use the 2.4 GHz band, and that usually helps setup to proceed.
After I get the device added and configured, I re-enable the router’s 5 GHz radio because that’s what my phone prefers to use.
Also, I’m wondering about this:
Does that mean you have Video Doorbell v2? Its status light flashes orange when it’s waiting for a connection. Since you tagged your post as wyze-doorbell, I initially thought maybe you were dealing with a Video Doorbell (Wired) (sometimes referred to as “v1”), which has a status light that flashes yellow when it’s waiting for a connection.
Check if your new router is set to WPA3 only or even WPA3/2 transition mode. Try changing it to WPA2 only and see if it works then.
Worst case, you may need to reset the doorbell and set it up again, some parameter in the new router may not have been in the old and it needs to re-negotiate things to connect.
That’s a good thought, too. I disabled WPA3 on an access point I set up a while back because I thought that might be part of my problem getting some devices to connect to it. I just re-enabled it and noticed that 19 devices dropped off. One additional device has already reconnected, so I’m curious to see what else happens with that. 
Not sure what router you have, but my Eeros assign WPA3 automatically to devices that support it only. Hopefully your does too.
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This just an inexpensive TP-Link range extender that I’m using in AP mode. On both bands, it provides options that include “WPA2/WPA3-Personal”, and that’s what I switched to before my devices dropped off.
I’m not too concerned about it and may just end up switching back to what I was using before. I’m just playin’ around and procrastinating this morning. 
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In transition mode, the AP and device both make that decision during the initial join and you’re basically locked in at that point until you “forget” the network and re-join on the device(s). So if you disable 3, any devices that are using that typically won’t reconnect until you reconfigure each one.
Of course that mode has been very problematic and several brands have been found to not behave as described. Plus, many seem to get stuck trying to force a 2 only device to 3 (which is supposed to be preferred, but only if the device supports it)
The devices are supposed to remember what they originally negotiated at and the AP is supposed to recognize that they’re requiring WPA2, but like anything, it is far from perfect. My guess is your AP is trying to force WPA3 when the devices remember the WPA2 setting and aren’t going to change until you forget and re-join the network (at least on devices that support WPA3). But there are some WPA2 only devices that the AP will still attempt to force 3 on.
Personally, I only assign one or the other to a band/SSID combo. If everything on the band/SSID supports it, then make it WPA3, if not, make it WPA2 (since having a mix of both mostly defeats any extra security anyway).
I have seen it work OK, but have also seen plenty of cases where it causes problems.
I am just picking your brain here, on my Eeros I have the option to turn the WPA3 on or off. When I turn it on it assigns it to compatible devices only, the rest stay on WPA2, Are you saying I’m better of disabling it and have everything on WPA2?
If it isn’t causing you problems, you can leave it enabled. It certainly isn’t hurting your security and is buying your WPA3 compatible devices a tad bit of extra protection. But just bear in mind if you ever have an issue trying to connect a new wifi device (or potentially even weird issues with devices disconnecting), you may need to try toggling it off to see if that’s the issue.
Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind. Maybe the Eero is “smart” enough and knows when to apply the WPA3, as back in September I installed a new V3 and had no issues whatsoever. 
They’re all supposed to be smart enough to handle the negotiation, but sometimes it is the device’s fault, sometimes it is the AP’s fault, sometimes it is just a weird combination of the two.
The main issue is likely that some devices that only support WPA2 do support Protected Management Frames, one of the main changes that WPA3 brings (now requires PMF instead of being optional and rarely used before). I think some APs see that and assume WPA3, and some devices see PMF support and assume the AP supports it on WPA2. Both not valid assumptions, but these drivers are programmed by people and are rarely perfect.
Thanks for clarifying