That’s because it doesn’t use your 220v to operate. It down converts from a higher AC voltage to a much lower DC voltage.
The pro version is working on 220v too?
I don’t get why Wyze doesn’t advertise this as a feature.
Thanks for taking the risk for science.
Noice! I was looking for a converter and came here for Ideas and found this thread. I’m in Chile @220V.
Will install it next week, and I’ll hook it to 220V. I got the WYZE Floodlight Camera Pro.
A friend just destroyed a Floodlight PRO by connecting it to 230v. It worked for a few seconds and ended with smoke. Opening the back cover revealed some burned electronics on the power source. I have a non-Pro floodlight and opening the back cover, it looks pretty similar to the Pro version. So now, I’ll keep it in the box forever. The picture with the white box is of the non pro working floodlight…and it says 130 on the electronics
Hey,
Did it work when you installed it with 220v?
In the same boat here in South Africa.
I was going to but another user posted that he did and the cam got fried. Now I’m on the fence with that option…I might just get a converter.
I went with both floodlights to a computer technician—the non-pro version, which wasn’t tested with 220/240V, and the pro version that was already burned with 240V (see my comment above). It turns out that the non-pro version has a power source compatible with 240V. They tested it for some time, and it’s working without problems. Unfortunately, the Floodlight PRO has a power source incompatible with 240V.
I have a Floodlight V1 (non PRO) connected to 220v AC in Ireland and it works perfectly. I just bought a Floodlight V2 and it looks like it got burned with 220v… how do I open it to see how it looks like inside?
Also do you know a good small converter I could use for a second V2 I bought?
There are different ways to measure AC voltage. Also, if there is 3phase power in your area that can cause a bit if a difference because of how the transformers and the taps work.
One can measure the area under the sin wave, RMS (root mean square), or the peak value.
*1/root(2)
Not sure what that has to do with my post. However, in the US it’s only 120v/240v, 110v/220v hasn’t existed for almost 100 years.
I wish I had seen this before connecting my floodlight v2 to 240v.
I thought since it works with v1 it should also work with v2. Silly me just destroyed a v2.
I bought the V2 version, and I would be interested in whether it works with 220V or is it Russian roulette?
Need 240/220v step down for
the Pro camera with the hardwire connection (no US plug) and trying to figure what to do next. Need to ensure the converter/transformer is waterproof for outdoor use of the floodlight. Did anyone find the hardware needed? Thank you.
Used something like this (in South Africa), installed it indoors, and ran the AC cable outdoors to the Floodlight, It has been working fine for 6 months
https://www.geewiz.co.za/transformers/189550-200va-170w-step-up-step-down-transformer-220v-to-110v.html
For anyone considering connecting their ‘Wyze Cam Floodlight Pro’ directly to the mains, if the standard in your country does not match the specifications in the USA, let this be a warning to you: DON’T DO IT!
I plugged mine into a 220V 50Hz socket, heard a small pop several hours later and that was the end of it.
Following the anecdotes of some commenters on this page will just ruin your device. Get a step-down transformer.