I think those were the pre 2021 plugs. I have post 2021 plugs and they have been rock solid.
Great idea.
I’ve been using the Sonoff S31. I like it because it stores the schedule locally vice the cloud. And I can select a new off/on cycle by simply enabling off & on. One more feature to consider when shopping for a wifi adapter is " Power On - Last State. That way it returns to the last power on state it was when it lost power.
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Nope, they are TP-Link Kasa HS-103. They are small, fit perfectly in a weatherproof box with a slim power adapter.
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Have to agree with folks herein who underscore that using a smart plug compounds the initial problem of the cam itself going unreachable. I have both indoor & outdoor wyze plugs that go offline as frequently (or more) than the cams themselves. Unless the smart plug can truly function offline as an island, a simple manual timer is better to combat the offline blues. Boils down to how resilient is the smart plug after an internet outage? If the plug went unresponsive and needed reinitialized, the only recourse would be to unplug it… 
I’d also buffer the rig with some kinda UPS or power pack in the event of power failure. Guessing a quality timer would have a battery backed clock, but I’d want something that could carry the entire load. I do the same for each cam I’ve installed at my parents’ place. Their wyze cams have been uber-reliable for 3.5 years, at least from a power delivery standpoint… 
There’s actually a converse problem I’ve observed where wyze devices don’t come back online once the router gets bounced. @csvdw has a good approach here by bouncing the router and then the cams such that connectivity gets restored prior to cam power cycle… 
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That is why I use Kasa plugs. They keep the schedule stored in the device (no internet needed to run the schedule) as well as they return to the last stage after power failure.
Same here, after scheduled router reboot, the cameras get rebooted as well. Additionally, all my cameras and plugs are on static IP addresses.
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Noted. Got a link to the model(s) you employ?
Assuming you accomplish this by DHCP rez? I haven’t actually done this for all of my cams & endpoints as yet, but I do it for certain other things. I have found an inconsistency after I reboot my parents’ integrated cable modem / mesh rig where (1) or more cams seem to have a stale lease but are unable to acquire a fresh IP from the DHCP service. Unclear if this is a wyze flaw or endemic to the network appliance. Might become a future tinker… 
Look for TP-Link Kasa HS-103 on Amazon.
I have a printer at home that goes to sleep, and when it does it falls off the device list in the router. As I don’t use the printer often (once every two weeks or so) whenever a camera gets rebooted or my phone gets assigned a new IP, the router will assign printer’s IP, When I need to print, then the printer does not connect. That is what led me to assign static IPs to anything that is not stable. Haven’t had any issues since, beside occasional Error -90 on Wyze cams solved with rebooting the smart plugs.
EDIT:
Correct.
Yeah, I always statically assign things like printers & servers as habit from decades of IT work. I’ve observed over the years that different DHCP servers operate differently. For example, some you can allocate a very specific pool within the scope and others go strictly by subnet. There’s usually some way to carve out exclusions, but if not DHCP reservations are the only way. I operate on a single /26 network at home. Current ISP device allows exclusions within the subnet and my rule is that all single digit last octets are where my DHCP rez & statics live, including my printer, server box, and the router itself. That leaves address space between 10-62 for DHCP to do its thing. Not sure if your device allows you to define such a boundary, but I’d bet there’s a way you can clear up the address conflict.
I was using one of those. Those are great little products. I wanted to plug it into a light bulb screw in socket adapter so I could still use the bulb but it also had a 120 outlet. The downside to the adapters, it did not have the third hole for the grounding lug on the wifi adapter. On a hunch, I used a hacksaw and cut the grounding lug off the Kasa wifi adapter. I smeared some liquid electrician’s tape over the metal end. And plugged it in. Worked great. Since the became my fix for small spaces. Great little product.
I reserved the high numbers 50-100 for my cameras, plugs and printer. The rest I left for DHCP to assign.
Hi, thanks for tips on error code 90. My daughter changed our home WiFi password and now I cannot access my cameras. Is this the cause of the error code and how do I fix this online while I am overseas?
Thank you
If the password was changed you’ll have to reset your cameras from scratch, just like brand new cameras. The only workaround is to change the password back to the old one. Nothing to do with error code -90.
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I thought so. Thanks for your prompt response Habib.
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