Setup my outdoor V3 cameras on Battery Backup that will keep 14 V3 cameras, 3 Wireless Access Points, 3 VOIP lines and Cellular router running for approximately 21 hours.
Have a 100Ah battery connected to a power supply/charger that powers my network and cameras, ran outdoor lighting direct burial low voltage cable to the cameras carrying the battery 12 volts.
Then at each camera the voltage is regulated down to 5 volts using a 12v to 5v Micro-USB adapter cable. (this adapter will work with a input as low as 9 volts, so any voltage drop on long cable runs is covered) Amazon Link to 12v to 5v Micro-USB adapter cable If out of stock check links below
IP-67 on Amazon - 2 Pieces DC-DC Buck Converter Module 12V to 5V Adapter Compatible,Waterproof Voltage Step Down Connector (Micro USB)
E-Bay - DC/DC Module 12V to 5V Converter Micro USB
E- Bay - Micro USB Cable DC-DC Down Converter 12V to 5V Adapter
Each cable run from power supply / battery is fused for safety at 1, 2 or 3 amps depending on number of cameras on that wiring branch.
Power Supply Charger out of e-wasted equipment, Battery 100Ah, and Low Voltage Disconnect module,
This location originally had a V2 in an enclosure, the 12v to 5v adapter has been exposed to rain, snow, and heat of summer for over 2 years. Recently replaced V2 with a V3
At 18 hours I am at 50% state of charge on the battery and low voltage shutdown has been set to 35% (11.8 volts) to protect battery life.
May have to add another 100Ah battery as my target is to have close to 2 days battery backup for network and cameras. My Alarm panel with comms is less power hungry and lasts nearly a week on it’s 100Ah battery system.
Edit: Run time test ended at 21.5 hours when low voltage disconnect activated, will need to add another 100Ah battery to get to my target run-time.
Probably adjusting cameras detection will help too with less uploads to AI analysis.
Any reason you are not using solar to power the system?
I have solar on 2 cameras on my driveways.
The other 14 cameras run on A.C. power and run on battery backup if power is lost. Living in California Sierras power does go out from time to time. And with PG&E (electric utility) the power gets shutdown during certain weather events too.
I guess I could add solar to that, but the need was to have the cameras and network up until I get back to start generator.
The cameras I have on solar took 2 x 100 watt panels and battery to keep up, most the year it has excess power but in winter the direct sunlight for solar is less than 4 hours. In the winter it has shutdown due to LVD because of not enough sun.
Very cool set up. Something to bookmark for any future reference. Thanks.
Neat solution. I’ve been a proponent of these for a long time as it is pretty simple to do to ensure at least some device are backed up during a power outage. With true wireless ISPs coming down in price, the extra cost to ensure service as long as the cell network is up and running, a very secured solution is available to many.
In my case, I push 5V out over ethernet/CAT5 cabling to a few Wyze cameras, but 12V will of course help reduce eventual voltage drop even better (with the additional cost of a DC/DC-converter at each end). I try to ensure that any networking equipment I buy (APs, switches, routers) all run on 12V for the simple reason of a 12 V central power supply (I’ve used various types of PC power supplies as they provide both 12V and 5V).
Adding an additional 100 Ah battery today
Will let batteries stabilize as far as float charge goes and do a test to see my new increased run time during an A.C. power failure.
200 Ah or 200,000 mAh of Backup power
Actually since I set Low Voltage Disconnect at 35% I have 130 Ah or 130,000 mAh
Are v3s equivalent to v2s in power consumption (set up identically and performing side-by-side?)
I did a test a while back for maximum draw from a V3 while streaming live video, IR (manually ON), Attached spotlight On, and Siren On and it draws 600ma. (0.6 A) worst case scenario there as I had everything I could do active to get the most current draw
Just tested a V2 & V3 at their lowest current draw, IR OFF, not streaming video. Cameras were connected to WiFi and ready as I checked that video was good after connecting USB V/A/mAh meter.
V2 5.02V x 0.33 A = 1.6566 watts
V3 5.12V x 0.28 A = 1.4336 watts
Thanks! So v3 ~15% less at idle. Is that significant?
223 milliwatts is not that much of a difference, The V3 does have a weaker WiFi signal/connection and other parts differences between the two models could account for that lower amount of power draw.
Some components might just be slightly more efficient, and it is a completely different circuitry design.
Nice info, thanks @bryonhu . Was that also with the cameras toggled “off” in the interface? (We long ago concluded that the setting was artificial and that the power draw should be identical either way.)
Both were viewed in the Wyze App to verify connection and video then left app to use my camera in same smartphone to take a picture of readings on USB V/A/mAh meter for note taking.
So online but not logged into on App at time of measurement for the lowest readings. And not toggled OFF in App, will have to try that later and report back.
If streaming live in App current does go up.
Started run time test last night at 00:00 11-26 unplugged A.C. power source. My prediction is that the LVD (low voltage disconnect) will happen around 18:00 Saturday 11-27 should get close to 42 hours.
LVD is set to shut down at 35% of battery level
So 130 Ah is the useable Ah from my 200 Ah battery bank. Shutting down at 35% extends battery life.
Found that there was a >400 millivolt difference between power supply / charger output to load and actual battery voltage.
Made adjustments to Low Voltage Disconnect unit to compensate for actual voltage at battery.
The adjustment to LVD should buy me some more time while keeping battery at 35% disconnect.
At 37 hours battery bank is at 71% State of Charge (12.335 volts)
At 47 hours battery bank is at 58% State of Charge (12.172 volts)
At 48 hours battery bank is at 56% State of Charge (12.144 volts)
Ended Test at 48.5 hours, extrapolating the data would suggest I would have 8-9 more hours of backup power for a total battery backup time of 56-57 hours before Low Voltage Disconnect occurs.
Cellular Router SMS Notifications log below:
State of Charge / Discharge for Lead Acid batteries Chart below:
I have 2 batteries elsewhere that are from 2007 still in service with approximately 85% of their original storage capacity, and they never were discharged below 35% too. 14 years and several months old and these batteries are still usable, They are Alpha-Cell gel cells GXL series.
Some people choose to fully “deep-cycle” their batteries but then only get 4 years or less out of them. Any discharge below roughly 33% is when damage to battery begins.
When the 14 year old Alpha-Cells finally become unusable they may be replaced with LiFePO4 batteries but still not sure about LiFePO4 batteries yet as from what I have read on them as far as lifespan and best LVD makes me think lead acid AGM batteries are still the best choice.
The only advantage I see to LiFePO4 batteries is they are 2.4 times less weight and in my situation weight does not matter. 100 Ah Lead Acid AGM 60 lbs vs. LiFePO4 100Ah at 25 lbs.
@Customer - Here is your test on 1 of my spare cameras I bought off Amazon yet to find a location on my property…
Tested for current usage with camera toggled on & off with NO difference in current draw.
V3 toggled OFF
V3 Current draw when supposedly OFF
V3 toggled ON
V3 Current draw when ON
V3 Cam is looking at a wall with No IR and No motion to upload
However V3 Cam is in Live View, Welcome to the Chinese Truman Show…
Don’t worry about the mAh as that is the 11 mAh used between the times the pictures were taken the “A” for Amperage is the indicator that there is No Difference in power consumption when camera is toggled to OFF
So Toggling Off the Camera in the Menu is merely a placebo…
Glad ALL my Wyze Cams are outside or in the Barn, I don’t get too high of ratings on the Chinese Truman Show of Americans compared to those Bedroom and Living Room Wyze Cams fools have in their homes…
Thank you for testing. That’s funny that there is not even the slightest difference.
Funny and Scary both at the time,
I could care less if those (hacking) watching the Live Stream see my outdoors antics or the wildlife out there, and in the Barn they can watch the animals…
I would Never put a camera inside in my Office or Living Areas knowing all along the possibilities of cameras being compromised. Besides my home and office have 100% full coverage on my Non-Wyze brand Security System made by Honeywell/Ademco (No Cameras, Just Security Only System).
EDIT: I just connected to Live View on a different network on my smartphone so the video data is outbound on 1 cell modem and inbound on another cell modem to my Live View currently running, and current draw did not change at ALL, Think about that everyone that is possibly a star on the (Hacker) or Chinese version of the Truman Show…
Just set up another Battery Backup System this one is for my Full Size Refrigerator
Picked up a used industrial BBS on E-Bay and bought four of the same 12 volt 100Ah batteries I used above.
Refrigerator ran on battery for 22.5 hours until low battery voltage disconnect at 30% state of charge
Myers Power Products MP2000 BBS (e-Bay surplus equipment) ~$150/with shipping
Works great, no more worries about food & meds going bad if refrigerator goes out due to power failure.
Can run without power up to 22 hours, and recharge in 6-10 depending on depth of discharge.
I can run the generator at night while home and charge it then be gone for the day and run on the batteries/BBS when multiple day power outages occur. Otherwise for short duration power outages up to 22 hours it is automatic switching to Battery BBS or Grid Power.
WiFi enabled with the client bridge I added and on my network.
Reports Power failure on Grid and Power failure of BBS when batteries run out through my Alarm panel monitoring system/service. (the white unit on top left of BBS)
Added a power strip for other appliances & lights as needed, basically a budget mini powerwall
Total cost less than $800 with the batteries being $650, compared to comparable systems several thousand dollars more…